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I have a Sigma 28 F1.8, which was launched at a comparable time.

Aside from focusing issues, the lens work alright. However, when I add fill-flash (a 420 Ex) the exposures are all wrong. I have just got a 580 EX but haven't tested it yet.

I just added a 580 EX.

The 2nd hand price of a 420 EX is just not worth the reselling- in fact you can do much more with it as a slave.

On the other hand, has anyone commented on the fact that the 580's colour temperature is slightly different from the 420's?

Just noticed the 2nd half of your question, Marc.

1) Is it accurate. Yes, quite. Much better than my Sekonic 208? (I forgot the model number but it is the petite analog one that you can attach on the hot shoe).

2) I ahave a 308B as well, and the VC is just as accurate. In fact, much better than the 308B in incident mode in a way because in crowded streets, the 308B's reading is always distorted by lighting from the top, making the pictures slightly under-exposed.

Some people have reflected on the VC meter's deficiencies:

(1) small angle of view. To be able to meter accurately as a large spot meter you really have to raise the meter to eye level.

(2) inability to hold the reading. One has to lower the meter from eye level to see what the proper exposure should be. The Bessa L o Bessa T are much better with the indicators at the back, rather than the top.

I did not notice these failings until I read about them on the Leica Forum.

Anyhow, I now use my VC meter (version one) by setting the ISO for a deliberate 1/2 EV over-exposure. Then I meter the scene off my palm, much like an incident meter. The fact that the meter is lodged on the makes it really handy.

There are various programs which convert avi (I think Canon uses MJpeg) and mpeg into DivX.

Some of these are shareware or even freeware.

Personally I use Dr DivX which costs $49.99 but I think you can get a 30-day demo for free at www.DivX.com.

Your analysis is right up till 1990's.

A Leica, to fulfil its function, needs film and processing for image making. The end product of a Barnack camera is as good as a F5 (minus multi-coated zoom lens, sophisticated meters).

A Rolex can be as good a Casio in telling time (with slight inaccuracy, minus stop-watch).

It may be more appropriate to compare a Leica with an expensive marble sun-dial. It is as decorative and useful without film as a sun-dial at night.

Thanks. Let's hope the 1/3 stop clicks also applies to the 21mm F2.8.

I'm shopping for a 50mm and currently the 50 F2 is not that much cheaper than a Summicron.

The video are memory hogs (I have the IXUS 40 which have beautiful 640X480 30fps clips.)

What I do is convert them to DivX which only takes up 10% fo the space, and then use virtual dub to cut and splice.

Ferdi:

Good site. First time I see it. Thanks.

You should really have two files, as previously advised. One for display, one for archival purposes. i actually scan my MFs at 1800 dpi, since memory and storage are cheap. Then you can crop later.

For web display, make sure the photo is in SRGB.

Also it would not hurt to apply unsharp mask for optimum display.

I have converted all the Carl Zeiss Jena lenses for Hasselblad use (201F and 203F). There are no problems whatsoever.

However, that may not be what you have in mind.

It may make more sense for you to get a cheap Mamiya or Pentax 645 body (I use a Pentax 645 N-II) and a cheap adapter (US$50 or less). That way, you can use these lenses, and at the same time a body that works with perhaps motorized film advance and a sophisticated meter.

Mitch:

I can't read Japanese, but I think the photos are sufficiently interesting that I wanted to get some of the past issues.

If you can order them through Amazon or Kunokunia websites, maybe it is cheaper and more efficient.

I spoke to one of the Japanese bookstores in Hong Kong and they said they couldn't get a subscription for me (apparently Natural Glow should be considered a series of books rather than a bonafide periodical, despite the issue numbers. They have the book certification numbers, but not the typical code for periodicals.) Consequently, the bookstore management said they could only order it one by one as the issues are published, making it more expensive. But perhaps you can find a more complying Japanese bookstore in Bangkok.

Personally, I like Eggleston, whose colour photos are extremely moody and powerful statements of a personal vision. I'm less familiar with Lee Friedlander, but I really think that the 2nd and 3rd examples are wonderful. They definitely do not look like snapshots, but rather careful compositions which take on a deliberate chaotic look and pack a powerful emotional punch.

I do not think the first one is that great. I admit I don't really get it. However, you should not dismiss an artist by just picking on just one of two bad pictures by a photographers. You have to look at his entire portfolio.

Anyhow, I think that photos that you take cannot really equate to Lee Friedlanders' better photos. If you can't see the difference then too bad.

Well, maybe it is really that dark, or maybe flickering lights fooled the meter. Who knows?

Anyhow, the easiest think is to crank ISO really high, make sure the aperture is wide open, and shutter speed is as low as possible 1/60s.

You have a D70 and you can judge with the histogram whether the photo is to your liking. If others can do it (as you claim) why can't you?

There can be a more prosaic explanation.

Sometimes the shutter speed and the aperture are coupled, in this case, you may have to unlock them before they can be turned freely.

I have parallel systems for some time: contax SLRs, etc.

My opinion is, if you already have something like Nikon, it will be more expensive to run parallel systems. You mention the lenses differeing angle of views, however, there is still some merit in retaining the old lenses. For instance the 70-200 F2.8 will still be the prinicpal zoom for portraits, the excellent 35 F1.4 becomes a normal F1.4 lens, the 24mm F2.8 will become a decent moderate wide angle for street photography.

I think Canon has the upper hand over Nikon in digital (don't shoot me down for making this statement), but both systems offer more than enough for amateur users - enough zooms and primes.

Building a parallel SLR system will entail a lot more costs while offering dubious benefits: think of the lenses, filters, flashes, and BACKUP bodies and you get my picture.

No question, if you just want the summmicron 35mm, you might as well get a Hexar AF.

Get that and a D70 and you are set - you'll be really equipped to take photos. You don't need a M7.

However, if that is all, most of us would not hang around the Leica forum. Once you get adapted to the rangefinder system, and the truly high quality shots Lecia lenses can make, the M-system can be your favoured system for some photo opportunites - snapshots, street, whatever.

I have all your lenses and cameras, (this is merely to say that I know what your current system's abilities and ergonomics) so I can say that for me at least, I prefer M-system for most cases (but not sports photos, or flash photos). Whether you like the M-system as much, or whether the cost is justified, is a judgement that only you can make.