nbg90455

<p>a green (aka yellow-green) filter should enhance red as well...</p>

<p>I use TMax Film (both 100 & 400) with TMax-RS developer at 75F for both 120 and 4x5 -- slightly different recipe, though: I mix both parts immediately (mixture will easily keep for 12 months!), and then dilute to 1:9 when I need to develop a tank...</p>

<p>Anything wrong with the offerings from Print File (i.e. their Archival Storage Page stuff)?</p>

<p>You want an Arca Swiss Field Camera -- monorail with full optical bench, with the weight of a field camera.</p>

<p>If you don't want to use below-the-lens filters (they are expensive and attract dust etc.), you always put the contrast filter on top of the negative carrier -- i.e. between negative carrier and the condensor...</p>

<p>On a side-note, once you get the shutter working properly, you have one of the finest lenses for 4x5 work. It was designed for 5x7, so you have an image circle only surpassed by the modern 210 Sironars. Here is one of my favorite images taken with this lens:

 

<p>Since you mentioned Printfile, this (<a href="http://www.printfile.com/cp35-7hb_25.aspx">http://www.printfile.com/cp35-7hb_25.aspx</a>) is what I have been doing for years: the contact sheet is in a pouch directly with the negs. Wouldn't worry about chemical leakage with RC paper...</p>

<p>You are still using silver paper in 2014 -- you need to branch out and do some alternative process stuff: platinum or palladium or at least cyanotypes !<br>

Now go to Bostick & Sullivan for some therapy !!!<br>

:D</p>

<p>Assuming you counted the sheet film in a darkroom or changing bag, the film should be okay -- you can always add a tad of Liquid Orthazide (sp?) to the developer to lower base fog...</p>

<blockquote>

<p>The cameras highest shutter speed is 250.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>That's probably the key here -- unless you plan to shoot a lot with filters and/or in low light, you probably need to use a 100 (+/-) speed film. Sunny-16 at f11 (defraction is going to "hit" you hard if you close the lens down more than that) will need the 1/250 (you can bet that the top speed on a camera of this vintage will be a tad slower).<br>

If you already use a B&W with that speed (e.g. TMax100) just use what you have already...</p>

<p>Wow, SV Photographics stopped processing E-6? How sad - they were "the" place back in 2006-2008 when I lived there...</p>

<p>Are you shooting TriX or TMax 400? Anyways, it's not about accuracy per se, but for the reasons you stated above (i.e. the time it takes to pour the developer in and out), that I have always heard that 5 minutes or longer is preferable for getting consistent results</p>

<p>4 minutes seems a bit short for any developer -- I don't use "digital truth" but do they have a longer development time at a lower temperature?</p>

<p>What film are you using -- from my own experience, TMax RS is a great developer for TMax film, but not so good for PlusX (which is one of the reasons why I only use TMax film anymore).</p>

<p>+1 on what "L G" says -- one question, though, why would you replace the Xenar with a dog like the Optar? Unless the Xenar is somehow damaged, it will perform a lot better than the Optar, which was known to have a fair amount of quality variablity and a fair amount of focus shift.</p>

<p>Sure -- I can try again...</p>

<p>Hi Todd,<br>

Went through the motions with installing Testflight, but when I go the email to install the beta version, the link then told me that I don't have access...<br>

Anyway, I have since done the delete&reinstall, and it seems to work fine now...<br>

Thanks,<br>

Mike</p>

I'd be happy to test it - just let me know how.

<p>Hi Todd,</p>

<p>Just upgraded to an iPhone 5S, which comes preloaded with iOS 7, and the App no longer works :(<br>

Mike</p>

<p> </p>

<p>@Doru -- on my light table, sure. Sorry, don't have the time these days to scan old film :(</p>

<p>@Dan - thanks, my mistake! Used to have a 180 and a 240 for my Crown Graphic 23, and got some beautiful slides with them...</p>

<p>Schneider made a couple of tele lenses for 2x3: search for Tele Artars at the usual suspects.</p>

<p>Let me restate my earlier comment -- there is nothing wrong with creative experiments, outdated film etc., but if you are trying to learn the process, are trying to get consistent and predictable results and are trying to learn to "pre-visualize" the final outcome you need good, reliable film and chemicals. Just like in a science experiment, you want to work on one variable at a time, not have an additional 10 random variables thrown into the mix.</p>

<p>Life is too short for cheap film !</p>

<p>Dave, for the same reason that folks were using view cameras in the pre-digital days: while shift lenses are very useful on 35mm cameras in architectural photography because the plane of focus doesn't change, the shift lenses on 35mm camera really do not allow for enough detail for critical focusing. Even medium format screens aren't big enough. The Rollei 66 was a valiant attempt, and it works okay in some circumstances, but not as well as a 4x5 (or larger) ground glass with a loupe.</p>