wang

The ortho film is a specialized film used by doctors in medical centre. Not x-ray, it's radioxxxx something,(it's a very long word). It's even narrower spectral response than ordinary ortho film, but it's super fine grain. It comes with other stuff I bought, a 300ft long roll.

 

How fast do you rate Polypan F, Jay? I found that ISO50 sometimes cause underexposure. ISO32 or 25?

 

I read that "bleach" of pyro film will have improvement. How to bleach pyro film? I am thinking of give a try. I can bleach the developed and dried film, can I? Maybe this will eliminate the cutoff issue I have now.

 

Double-X, I have a heard a lot about it, I may ask one whem I have chance shoot a portrait or have a nice place to travel to. I also need to read some more technical article about it. We need to treasure each roll of it, tight? BTW, Larry do you have a some sample pictures from Double-X? Or somewhere I can find some pictures? I am very interested in this film. I love the long toe thing, but my results are more flat instead of long toe in my view. I need to unsderstand it more, I think. Some says that Bergger is similar to Double-X, is this right?

BTW, click on the "ALL SIZES" on top of the image if you want to see larger image, it looks much better in larger size.

Hi Jay,

 

I tried 510-pyro with Polypan and Ortho film, using 1:100 7min 70F

 

For Polypan, I think I under exposured the film, but it still looks very pleasing.

 

For Ortho film, it's handled very good in my view. I used this film with Xtol

and TD-3 before, but 510-pyro made the better ballance in contrast and details.

Best tonality so far. great great detail in original straight scan, yet very

smooth tone(for a ortho film).

 

Again, I like 510-pyro's contrast contral, it gives a very 3-dimensional feeling

overall.

 

BTW.

this is developer really STAIN, it stains ANYTHING! Be careful when you use it,

and do a complete cleaning for EVERYTHING around! A stain developer, right?

I uploaded picturs in flickr.com.

 

 

Compare with XTOL 1+1, it's better tone, XTOL is more flat, but pyro re-created

the scene, brought out the feeling. Pyro is not the fine grain booster. It's

finer grain than normal developer for sure, but it's not boosted compare with

XTOL 1+1.

 

I just did a roll of test shoot this time, it's Texans late afternoon, pretty

high contrast scene I notice. Pyro handled it nicely, I shot similar scene in

about same light situation before, but other developers either made it to

contrasty or too flat. Pyro did it just about right in contrast. I believe I

need more tuning on this combo, since I saw samples from others are better in

grain and less cutoff in both high and low light.

 

I tried scan with color negative, RGB, non of them helped at all in cutoff.

 

Anyone have successful dev.time and procedure on this combo?

Thanks for the help. I shoot in 35mm and 120 now, but I am repairing a graflex and B&J, so I am going to try some 4x5 or even 5x7 (hopfully).

 

Can I us TF-4 fixer? it's so easy and cheap to use.

 

Does pyro processed film scanned good? Do I need to select RGB instead of grey scale? since the stain is in color. I will try that anyway. I am using nikon coolscan. I haven't collected enough dark room "trash" yet to set up one, so wet print is not possible yet.

 

BTW, how much developer is needed for certain amount of film? for example can a one reel jobo tank used for stand developing big enough for 1:500 dilution? How about the jobo cpp-2? that can fill with of half of the mount of developer. Do I need to use longer tank if I use CPP-2? ( I use stand developing more often though)

 

Sorry for my fresh-bee questioning.

I got my kit from Artcraft today, great guy from artcraft.

 

I remember I read somewhere that developing in 510-pyro is following order"

develop,fix,then put the film back to developer again ?! " is that correct? I am

a fresh-bee in pyro, so please help clearify the steps.

 

I also read that Bergger film is great for pyro process, any comment on this?

I just called him,he was in the mess of relocation, I know that mess, my order will be shipped out today, I can't wait to try it out now....

 

He is nice to talk to, very helpful.

I sent the payment for 510-pyro material month ago, still not arrived, I contact

them through email MANY times, not respones. I dealt with them before, they were

very good. Are they still in business? Or my email address has been block as

bulk mail from their site? Anyone here has contact with them recently (within

one month)?

I pour the developer into tank, closed it, shaking it, put it on table, counting some time and reversing it, and put it on table again, then wait a while see if the next agitation time is coming, ..... timer was not even connected. since then, I connect the timer first and set the time, then prepare the chemical and load the film. I guess I am getting old.

You mean import tax? no I don't need to pay that for this kind of mailed item.

Claudio is right, the price I mentioned is for 90m can, it's about 300 feet, not 150 feet. It cost nothing even with shipping cost added. I remember I paid same money for shiping as for the film alone.

Another one<div></div>

Here is a another sample<div></div>

I got this film on eBay Germany some months ago. It's very thin base. I read some post say it lack of anti-halo layer, someone say it's ilford, some one say it's Agfa, but I see no connection between them at all. It's very unique. Label on the tin says made in EU, but country mentioned. It's a great film I think, may not be highly rated in test lab though, but it has it's own tast. It's dirt cheap even with the "huge" shipping cost with it. I don't remember the number, but about 20-26 USD for 150 feet roll. If you travel to Europe, you will have the great deal there.

 

I saw some one posted a link of a German photo shop selling this film, can't remember where I saw it.

This is a very good film in my view. It's not super fine grain, but has the tast

no other has, tt has the softness I love. It gives a very "bright" feeling even

in pretty dark scene, it makes bright object glow a bit, but much beautiful than

the soft filter's effect. I wonder how the result of a head shoulder portrait on

this film, any one has a sample?

 

here is one of my example, just a snap shot.

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/4917485<div></div>

Is this developer is one shot or can be reused?

I recently developed TMAX100 120 size in XTOL 1:1 according to MassDevChart data.

It's almost grainless, I wonder if TMAX developer will do even better for this

t-grain film? How much better? In which area(contrast? tonal? sharpness? detail

or grain)? See result of XTOL from my stair rail pictures in my account.

Do you guys have a link where can I buy the kit? I am not so handy to do the measuring of raw material..thanks

I have a 300ft long roll of unknown film(no letter on the side of the developed

film). I test shoot it and developed it, find out ISO 64 or 50 is most closest

setting. But it's very high contrast. So far ilford DDX gave the best result but

loosing shadow (blacked out). Rodinal gave a very very thick result but shadow

is lost still. I am asking which developer is more low contrast, I want to give

a try, since the film gave extremely fine detail in middle range, very very fine

grain too, I want to use it due to it's character.

 

BTW, I have a long roll of old kodak shell burst film too, any one know what ISO

is it? I pick it up for almost free, and want to give a try too.

 

Thanks in advance..........

I try to use Xtol, then I find out that it's in 5L package. I couldn't

find a cup that big, what do you guy do on Xtol?

 

Make concentrate? use a wok? Please advise . Thanks

A smaller picture, sorry about it.

,while she is out shoping.

 

Much nicer tone than any lab I tried outside. I need find a place at

home to set it up more permantly. (Now 90% of the time I do is set up

and clean up (and hiding things, cleaning traces). Any idea to share.

 

I wonder a why some of the picture in the same roll have "golf ball"

grain and others just very very fine grain? SAME ROLL ?!

 

See the nice one from it. It's a rush test shoot though.<div></div>

I saw people comment on AGFA Rodinal re-market news saying that AGFA

chemical was bought by another company. Will they also re-produce the

AGFA APX film too?

15xx drums are leaner and use less developer, 25xx otherwise.

 

It sounds to me that 25xx should give more space between film layers

on the reel, is this right? Is this make the developing better in

theory at least? Any one has experience on this? I am making decision

on buying 15xx drum or 25xx drum for 35mm film.

 

I know 25xx are multi drums can do the 120/220 4x5...too. Let's

comment on developing quality of 35mm film. thanks!

I basically love the AGFA APX100 tonal character, but it's gone now.

I shoot some Kodak and fuji though, but only recent time, haven't

discover the mood with them yet ;-).

 

Can someone introduce me a bit more about Kodak Tri-X and plus-X pan?

What's the different between these two type of film? What about the

Acros? What's the different between these film over AGFA APX, on tonal

smoothness?