wang

<p>I have similar film, I found pyro developer worked best, XTOL and Microdol too.<br>

Shot at ISO25 and below please, it's green-blue sensitive, it's ortho. Super fine grain, image sharpness will only limited by your lens.<br>

It has very narrow and unique spectrum sensitivity curve, so it can be ugly for green, but wonderful for other subject. Try still life or building and street. You will like it.<br>

For portrait, be very careful, and redness on face will be extremely..... ;-)</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thank you guys for the advise, I got a way dark positive image, but clear image. I never see this before, a positive image, I though you will need a special process to get positive image even the chrome film......learned something new.<br>

I tried ISO 2 I guess, ( 1 step lower than ISO-8, non of my camera go that low on metering). and in Rodinal 1-100, for 18min as Larry suggested.<br>

Question:<br>

How to adjust it on positive film? Or I should say how to control the density build up? As for negative film, more exposure or more developing will increase density build up, how about positive, same way or not? Because the white is the washout and black is the stay on positive, but negative film in another way.<br>

Can positive film pressed in a way get negative image?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Anyone used medical duplicating film? I google it and find almost no result. came cross one place some used it for enlarging negative make contact print later on.<br>

Question is, is this type of film (i.e. fuji DUP film) can be developed in normal developer, say Rodinal or XTOL? Do they need longer or shorter time to develop? I know they are very slow in ISO speed.<br>

I have one box of this type sheet film, so cheap in price, and tried on ISO 25, developed in Rodinal 1+50, 6 min, it came out almost a dense board, looks very over developed, and very very light "POSITIVE" image ! YES it looks positive, I put over a white paper and look at it close to bright light source, it's black on black and white on white!<br>

Any comment on this?...........Thanks</p>

<p>come across this film "KODAK PROFESSIONAL SO-016 GEN 2 COLOR NEGATIVE FILM" found no ISO information on box, anyone knows anything about this film?</p>

I saw the ERA film from China selling cheap on eBay, I want to buy some sheet

film. I wonder if the X-ray will kill the film shipped from Taiwan or mainland

China? Anyone tried ERA film? Anyone mailed film from oversea recently?

 

Thanks

Here is a small sample crop....

I have been play with Ortho film, I think the ortho film will enhance any blemish on skin since they redness, so make up is very very important(or you can choose different model with better skin). Dark red lip stick will become dead black in result image, so warm red a bit to brown will make it dark and sexy. I also find out that dark yelllow filter make the skin much lighter and very sexy looking. Try it you will love it.

Here is the adapter I bought, it was shipped from shanghai instead of HK in my case, and a bit LONG shipping time though.

http://cgi.ebay.com/panoramic-conversion-kit-for-pentax-67_W0QQitemZ220067437697QQihZ012QQcategoryZ29973QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

With the adapter, I can use many more type of film, and once come to color film, I have to wait at least a week to get them back from lab in my area, or I have to drive 20+ mile to the pro lab, and they close while I am off from work, no weekend opening. Also, this adapter let me take about 19 or 20 frames on a 36exp roll, not many type of 220 film out there. Say...infrared, ortho, low speed ones, polypan....

 

I got your point anyway, the quality is same on 35mm compare with crop from 120, no doubt about that.

This adapter is good, but loading and unloading film is a pain.

 

Get a old cassette from 1hr lab with a little film left outside, tape about to

8"( yes can be even longer) wast film on it. Cut the new film lead to flat end

first then tape to the other end of the wast film, then retrieve the film back

to the new films cassette a little bit. Remember when putting film in camera,

one side is longer bar on top and another side reversed. After film finished,

you need a changing bag to unload the film by rewind it back to the cassette of

new film.

 

The result is good, the pain is worth.<div></div>

Great. I book marked it already. We can archive some of the posts in this forum in your blog and as reference. Thanks Jay.

Another question: I have a sinar sliding back for 4x5 too. but no grafloc back on film side. I couldn't find one in long time, are those toyo, calumet, combo, omega compatible? I am thinking to find a cheaper one and easier to find too.

I have a toyo-view 69 holder and quick roll slide adapter, I measured the screen

to slide track distance and film plane to track distance, and found there is a

at least 1/2 mm different( film plane is further backward). this is big

different. is there a spacer on screen is missing? or the film holder is not

right? I see no other part installed in either slide adapter or film holder. all

toyo parts.

 

Is there any way I can adjust it?

Talking about gloves in DR, I use those COSTO gloves, 9.xx for 300 counts(3 boxes pack), is this glove good enough for protection? It's so cheap and so easy to use.

Great.....Jay.

 

I was thinking it can stain the image on film, it should stain the image on paper too, I just don't know if the stained image on paper will resist UV ray and air for long though.

 

I can imagine how beautiful is your image on paper by pyro. I am very scratching to setup my wet dark room now. Any suggestion ot have it cheaply, easily setup? I have a 4x5 enlarger (150 USD only!), all the trays and beaker and so on (after many years pick up). I need to think about how water come and go now.

Jay,

 

How is your home page going? I think you (we too) need a place to share the time/dilution/temperature and result. Not only for 510-pyro but generally staining technique. I think there will be staining developer for paper coming out soon.(well, excuse me if I made you LOL). Or maybe a forum can be created? here or APUG or somewhere else.

 

From what I saw that the "death of film" made the price of equipment diving hard, photo labs less and less, more and more people start to "get your hand dirty and do it yourself" and more people like me taking the advantage of the affordable equipment joining in. So dark room thing is gaining it's popularity.

I developed a expired tmz3200 in 510-pyro, and result is surprise.

 

I shot the film at 800, since it's expired more than 2 years and no freezing

storage.

 

I developed it in 510-pyro, 1:100 70F 8min( as same as D-76 stock data) followed

Jay's advice.

 

Base fog, yes, there is fog. I don't see the edge of the image on film when I

squeeze the water off.

 

But the scanned image is surprise. It's actually good for this kind of speedy

film. And grain is NO more than 400 film in rodinal. few picture is about the

same as 100 film in rodinal 1:50 ! And AGAIN 510-pyro eased the contrast, much

less block out then normal developed speedy film.

 

See some samples:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/23871836@N00/sets/72157594371055271/detail/

 

look at IMG22001 in the set, it just about the same as 100 film.

 

I remember I saw someone developed HIE in pyro and get excellent result, so I

think pyro in general is a saver for speedy film, I would imagine that a current

3200 film developed in 510-pyro would be very good. Hope some one could try it

out, or I will do it when I find one.(I am a second hander in photography, even

for films, too much cost..).

how much does a Maxwell screen cost? say pentax 67, mamiya 645, rollei TLR?

Where can i buy a Maxwell screen for pentax 67 and mamiya 645?

Good and bad, I just bought pentax 67 in mint condition plust lenses in that cheap price, MUCH less than a pro grade APS-sized CCD SLR body. I can't imagin that I can afford these before and I believe I can get better picture on this 6x7 than those pro grade APS-sized CCD SLR. I also got mamiya 645proTL with lenses and loads of film backs. I think film foto is dying fast in commercial photographer group, at least for most of the consumer portrait and Ad shooting, but in the same time, more and more people like me can afford the gears(dump from you Pro's) and diving in crazily.

 

so I feel sad in one way, but pretty happy in another way ;-\

I have few leftover expired(2004) TMZ 3200 film, I want to try it in 510-pyro,

what is the speed should I use for this film since it's fast film and expired.

how long should I develope it? 1:100 or higher dilution is better?

I loaded some more samples:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/79208920@N00/sets/72157594347861266/detail/

I used Bergger film for this sample. I haven't get my wet dark room set up yet.

I made the scan of 510-pyro film, with mono negative/gray scale, and color

negative/RGB, mostly it showed very minor different, but few can make quite

difference. see the examples.

 

 

In this sample, I think the the color negatice/RGB scan then converted to gray

scale in PHOTO ELEMENT is the better one.

I rated the "ortho" at 50, but I think I could rate it at 32 even, though I haven't try it yet. The base is blue color, yes, blue. and I see different in scan from mono-gray to color-RGB. I am analysing it now.