DEGREEFOTO

Hi Andre,

I have a Toyo with the Binocular. It saves on having to use a dark cloth to focus most of the times....but it is another bulky item to carry...more so if you are hiking into landscapes.

Artur

Hi Mirella,

Where are you based ?. Nevertheless drop me a line...my email can be requested via my profile .

Artur

Hi Bruce,

I have used this technique in the past as it was passed onto to me by one of my teachers (in Sydney) and member of this site, although I feel he is no longer one. I have used it both in doors as well as when shooting out doors and has in general worked well for me. Although I must admit that an understanding of the filter factors does a great deal more when using that all important human CPU.

Artur

Hi Eric,

It sounds like the LED may be the issue. As I recall when I had the 9xi, the AF Illuminator did throw enough light for the focus to work...depending on the time of day and the surface used to focus on....at the time I had a Metz Cl 4 with SCA on the hotshoe. However some other 9xi users that I knew did over a period of time (years) find that the Led was fading. I did not experience this myself even thougn I had the camera for 5 years before trading it in for the Minolta 9.

Artur

Hi David,

I use the Cokins for all my formats. Regardless of this, the first thing I buy when I purchase a new lens is a screw on UV or Skylight which I then leave on the lens regardless of what other filter system I use. Its a safe bet and peace of mind.

Artur

I think you have great potential and some great shots. Just remember that a portfolio is a never ending work in progress...keep raising the bar...and look back from time to time at some of your early work to see the stage or direction you find yourself in at that moment.

Keep at it...never give up

Artur

Hi Dawn,

Apart from some of the issues that have already been aired, I feel that a simple visa to holiday in the country should be enough if you don't make it known to authorities that you are coming over to work. I have done a couple of shoots in Rome and Tuscanny, although my case is different as it has only cost me 50 euros to fly there from where I live in Spain. If its a church wedding, be aware that some priests have their 'own photgraphers' on standby and its been known that the priest does not want any other shooter in the church regardless of what the B&G say...the some thing happens in certain parts of Spain as well. Italy is rather expensive and some of the prices mentioned already are not uncommon. I feel that the $10.000 mentioned above would cover you for the whole week in a 3 star hotel inclusive of the airfares, food etc and the photography included. Ofcourse, there are cheaper places to stay at...neverheless keep a low profile in so much as being there to do the job...that way you are just another tourist with an expensive camera. After all, I would imagine that any payment would be made back in the US and not in the EU.

All the best

Artur

Although I can see this item impacting on my client base, at $8000 plus extras needed, I don't believe that there will be a rush to get one in my area.

Artur

Yes I take your points folks, except that at times when looking at some shots from various members on this site that have a large section of 'self portraits' it is at times difficult to see where the photographers input ends and their'assitant' helps starts, more so when it comes to composition. I feel that the lighting etc...would be setup by the 'true photographer', but without casting dispertions on anyone, there are shots on this site that the meaning of self portraits, relates to the subject matter and not whether it was all setup by the subject matter, if you know what I mean. After discussing the issue with a few local shooters, I think it all boils down to the different interpretation of the meaning self. I was taught that that meant, you set the shot up, the lighting etc....and pressed the shutter whether with cable on timer all by yourself and not with the help of anyone else. Nevertheless thanks for sharing your points of view.

Artur

I was wondering if some one could please define a 'Self Portrait'. No doubt I

would imagine that the interpretation may be different depending in which part

of the planet you are in, but I have noticed over a period of time and in a

couple of Forums, that what I imagine and have been led to believe, are not the

same thing.

Am I wrong to think that a Self Portrait is a portrait taken by the

photographer of the photographer or is the interpretation open to

interpretation.

Artur

Lee,

As most have already mentioned, I don't believe we will see a digi back in the 2k ball park unless its a 2nd hand job. As is I believe there is some news that Hassy are bring out a new H2 F version...the F being for film users. For a company like Blad to go back to film speak volumes to me!

Artur

Hi Adam,

Try looking for Cibachrome or Ilfordchrome on the net. I don't know if these processes are still available, but I had some Cibas done back in the 90s from 4x5 slides and they are still attention getter when ever I display them.

Artur

I had a test run of a digi back from Phase 1 for my ETRSi a couple of years ago. The investment at the time was rather high to proceed down that road and for this reason I maintain film for MF. I know there are a few companies that offers backs which can be used on the Bronnies.

Artur

Thank you Patrick and all at PN. Great feature.

Artur

In regards to a short cut in this rather difficult subject matter to photograph, I can only suggest that perhaps a copy of Light, Science and Magic may help you to some extend in ligthing shinning surfaces. There are a great many 'cocoon type' of boxes that one can add to get a certain type of soft light etc....but in general I find these restrictive at best. Large diffusers are a must. Your statement: ?I need a shortcut and learn from experience of professionals on the market? is not realistic at best. It takes many years in some cases to achieve certain aspects when it comes with dealing with jewellery which can only be learnt via trial and error. Although a great deal can involve macro...your clients may want to involve models etc...to the shot just to add a difference. All these issues need to be addressed as at time when dealing with jewellery, you are not just taking photographs...but more so.....solving problems within the image to make it look acceptable at the some time highlighting the beauty of the design, stones etc....

Feel free to drop me a line if you wish to discuss this further.

Artur

Yep...large soft box and baffles....look in the models eye for the answer...you can just make out the shape of the soft box used.

Artur

I consider myself a hybrid...mixing film with digital. The only neg I shot is B&W and the rest is all slides (4x5 or 120) which I process at home. My digital takes the form of either scanning the slides or using a digi 35mm.

I have over 10000 35mm slides which I still use in the projector that I have and still enjoy looking at them on a light box if I don't scan them. My storage is dry and dust free and I hope this will lead to having these images for a great deal of many years to come. As most have already mentioned above...it was the medium in which work was required to be presented to a mag etc....and yes it is unforgiving if you get the exposure wrong. Without getting into a film v digital...I have just ordered this years supply of 4x5 which amounts to around 2000 sheets and I hope there are a great deal many others that will continue to support film...it would be a great shame to see it fall by the way side after the investment one has in equipement.

Artur

Hi Rachel,

It would depend on what subject matter you are thinking of shooting. If its more commercial in door studio or product types then I would consider a Sinar, Toyo Cambo etc....with the required movements that these types offer and the possibilty of adding a digi back to one if the budgets or client bases permits. Then again if landscapes are your lot then perhaps a field camera(folding and at times made out of wood) may be the way to go. With field cameras not all offer the movements that the others I have mentioned have. Then there is the question of lens...210mm being at times the normal fl with 90 and 65mm being the wides. You can also add roll film backs to these as well as polariods. Most studio (view cameras) are modular systems which you can add to, like a bag bellows when using a wide angle lens. All in all it all depends on your requirements and budget, although there are some great buys on Ebay these days

As for myself, after using Sinars for a few years ...I down graded to a Toyo view camera which was given to me and which I use in studio but is light enough to use out doors, be it on a good tripod. The quality a good tranny gives, at this size...for the moment far surpasses any digital IMHO.

Artur

Hi Chris,

This question was asked in the Wedding Forum some time ago and with the risk of turning this into a film v digital, I recall some one stating that on average they would shot around 4000 shots per wedding. The question I asked at the time was how many shots would be taken using film. Funny enough the reply from several was that around 250 - 300 max. One would have to ask then....what were these people charging...in some cases as little as $500.....but when one did the maths....the amount of time taken in post processing etc was eating the $500 away to nothing.

There have been comments on how some of these people are now even thinking of going back to film due to the amount of work that can be involved in post processing. The example that Bill gives above I feel hits it pretty close to the mark. Have we gotten lazy with the onset of digital to the extent that we take 100 shots of the bride dancing with her father...as one example.....or could perhaps 2 or 3 shots of this can be achieved if we applied the 'using film' thinking when using digital?

Artur

Hi Tom,

Firstly, I feel that the blue gel on the large softbox may not work the way you imagine on the dishes...if anything it may cast a colour cast overall. Remember that flash is balanced for daylight and to this extent I would try to diffuse it as much as possible to give soft shadows overall without adding any gels to this unit to obtain the daylight balance look. I would even possibly use the large soft box as a back drop making sure it was far enough back to not 'flood' the main subject but to add the 'feeling' of being outdoors. In regards to the cutlery the blue gel again may give the items a blue cast.

I would also address the main light and the use of the gel. I appreciate the effect you may be trying to obtain here and for this reason perhaps lift a 'grill element' of a BBQ and light it from below with a orange/pink/ red gel with the steaks etc on it,,,making sure that all the items appear to be moist and not dry. If however you wish to keep the food on the dishes then light it with a nuetral background with perhaps a few items like glasses etc...near the main subject. It is at times difficult but not impossible to simulate certain evironments like being out doors, but I have found that copious amounts of soft light with a few extras in well placed position may be the way to go to achieve the effect.

Then again a BBQ can take different forms, depending in what country one is in...from throwing another shrimp on the barbie to a whole hog on a spit.

Regards

Artur

Hi Nicole,

Lets see if I can word this in a simple manner for you. Firstly make sure there is a spare empty plastic spool on what will be the bottom sprocket so as to be used to wind the film onto. The roll of film is placed on the top sprockets with the black coloured inner part of the paper leader facing outwards. In other words making sure that the film brand name would not be seen once you install the film.You will need to pull enough of the leader over the face of the film holder and down and under so as to have it fed into the plastic spool I mentioned earlier. Once you have gotten the paper leader or tongue into the slot, bend it with your fingers so it stays there, then with the winder which is located on the side of the film holder wind the film on until you see the indicator which is written with the word and arrows 'Start', making sure that you match this indicator with the markings on the inner part of the film holder.

I usually then place the film holder into what will be the outer casing, shut it tight and wind the film until you see the number 1 in the small window which is located on the top part of the film holder. You will need to wind the film to the num,ber 1 position either by using the speed grip if you have it or the cranking lever a few times, firing the shutter each time until you have the first frame in the window. Making sure that the dark slide is in at all times thus far but you may have to remove it once you have closed the film holder in the outer casing to fire the shutter each time.

Once you have wound the film onto the first frame...you are ready to take the dark slide out and off you go. I hope I haven't confused you...but just remember that the inner part of the paper sleeve which makes up the roll must be facing out. The film is not attached to this sleeve and hence it will also be in the right position once you have wound it on.

All the best

Artur

Jess

I would agree with the comments made by Matt Laur, Robert Watcher especially and Jammey Church. I've done the hard yards in the school of hard knocks over a great deal of year with a good dose of determination and discipline....a great deal of discipline both in the technical and business ends. In later years whilst working in the industry as an assistant, I polished off my rough edges by doing a 4 year course at Uni to fill in the missing pieces only to find that at the end of Uni, was actually just the beginning. But as Marc Williams mentions...sharing HARD earn knowledge is not an easy thing, more so as commented here. In a great deal of cases the information that many here seek may only require one to look in this well documented site. I will always lend a hand to the best of my knowledge where ever I can, but I hope you can understand that it gets a bit long in the tooth when perhaps the answers to a question may only be 2 mouse clicks away and not the years that some of us have invested our lives in for the love of our profession.

Artur

I agree with all of the above points of view, and although it is not my intention to turn this into a film v digital debate, I can't help but think that with the onset of the new technology, there has been a relaxing of attitudes on both side, i.e the client and would be photographer. I do believe that the industry needs some type of watch dog that would be useful for maintaining a certain level of professionalism in every aspect. There are professional associations which require a certain level of knowledge on the side of the photographer and that offer an added service to the client in the event that the work is not up to standard. Joining such a body is an option, but to do so requires the photographer to demostrate a range of techincal as well as people mangement skill to maintain the profile of the industry in general.

Although I believe that most pros can not compete with the weekend shooter who is doing this for some extra cash. The downside is that we are now seeing the fallout of such technology in the wrong or inexperience hands. I have been to a few weddings this year as a guest and have watched how the photographer has asked the B&G not to move until he had taken at least 5 shots of that particular scene. I don't recall seing that when film was used in such an event. The results with film in general, being pretty much spot on...why because all the positive steps that have been mentioned above were not taken for grant. But having said that I also believe that the B&G should also be made responsible, after all they get what they paid for, one would hope.

Artur

Hi Stuart,

I have a jobo which I managed to pick up through Ebay. I must admit that I put through around 30 sheets per month and I am rather happy with it. I looked into the tanks, but felt that in the end the controls that the jobo has together with the addition of a couple other add on which come with the unit, won out more so when it come to constant results. Apart from that I have seen tanks also on ebay which may be of use to you and your budget.

Artur

Hi Ellis....

thanks for this refresher course....this has not crossed my mind since leaving uni.

Artur