Jump to content

jlkphoto

Members
  • Posts

    277
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by jlkphoto

  1. <p>Thanks for the effort but that link concerns digital camera repair.</p>

    <p>I have actually talked to people at the Fuji New Jersey facility who promised to call back with the info...I'm still waiting.</p>

    <p>Therefore, I'm looking for someone on Photo.net who has actually sent a GW690III to New Jersey and had it serviced in the recent past.</p>

  2. <p>I have Velvia 50 stored frozen since 1999 that has no issues. I have many other types of film frozen almost as long and none of them have any issues so far.<br>

    The key is to keep it FROZEN until you intend to use it, then let it thaw to room temperature over several hours before breaking open the sealed wrapper - to control condensation. I always put the film in a sealed plastic bag before stashing in the freezer.<br>

    Do this and most film except perhaps very high speed or infrared types will be usable for a lifetime.</p>

  3. <p>I'm surprised no one mentioned Photobackpacker. They cater to large format photographers.<br>

    <a href="http://www.photobackpacker.com/home.asp">http://www.photobackpacker.com/home.asp</a><br>

    They sell a modified Kelty backpack designed for photographers and have various cases for cameras, lenses, etc.<br>

    The modified Kelty pack is designed for backpacking so it fits much better than any typical photo backpack. The cases and backer boards are incredibly light weight.<br>

    I'm a happy customer.</p>

  4. Virtually any parts from any Sinar 4x5 camera are interchangable, so piecing a camera together is no problem. On

    the other hand, if you watch Ebay for a few days you'll see complete systems go very cheaply...often including a

    lens or 2 or 3.

     

    Most LF lenses you're going to find for sale, new or used, will already have a Copal shutter mounted & all you'll need

    is a generic Sinar lensboard. I don't think you'll find them more expensive than a DB mounted Sinar lens, plus, you

    can use them on any LF camera (with proper lensboard), which wouldn't be the case with a Sinar behind the lens

    shutter & lenses with special Sinar DB lensboards. DB boards are NOT generic and must be matched to the lens.

  5. Viewfinder edge darkening is normal.

    The hood helps eliminate flare which can be a problem in certain lighting conditions.

    Not sure if the 4x4 hood is the same size as the 6x6 hood.

    The adapter will work fine, I use a Bay I to 52mm without problems.

    A hood helps but simply shading with a hand or hat to keep stray light off the taking lens works too.

    The MX-EVS is probably closer to the "Automat" manual on that site, here's a link to a manual for your camera:

    http://www.urmonas.net/manuals/rollei-mxevs/rollei-mxevs.html

     

    Have fun! I have an MX-EVS about that same age with the Xenar lens. They came with either the Xenar 75mm or a Tessar 75mm.

  6. 4-30 seconds is long enough that any camera induced vibration is a non-issue. Use a locking cable release or the hat-trick already mentioned.

     

    The only thing to worry about with any camera and exposures this long would be camera or tripod movement due to outside forces like wind, bumping camera or tripod accidently, etc.

  7. I wouldn't take the word of that salesperson. Almost all the 67 lenses are incredible on the 67 camera itself. When used on a DSLR, even a full frame DSLR, you are only using the center of the image circle...in other words, the sweet spot of any lens.

     

    I have not tried it but I would imagine there's a chance the image quality may even be BETTER than with a 35mm or digital lens.

     

    The weight and size are still issues.

×
×
  • Create New...