User_2019667

<p>I have a 39mm screw mount Canon SERENAR f: 3.5 35mm lens that is on my newly acquired Leica III that is in need of a CLA and was hoping that someone can steer me in the right direction for having it done, Thanks in advance.<br>

John</p>

<p>Vince thanks for that input and I can certainly see how that could happen with replacing the top plate on a Leica. I'm not sure about the newer ones but I believe the older models have the No. on the top plate.<br>

John</p>

<p>Thanks Alex, It is very clean. I can't get over how nice it is for something made in 1934. I personally was made just 6 years after this camera and I think it has held up better than me. :) I hope it works as good as it looks.<br>

John</p>

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<p>Thanks Kayam. I had a nice IIIC a few years ago and I think I still remember how to load a roll of film in these babies. That was a real learning experience let me tell you. That was a nice IIIC. I had three nice lenses with it. A 35, 50 and 125 and every lens was crystal clear. I sold the complete outfit because I wasn't using it as much as I should have. I hate to see a beautiful camera just sit on a shelf in a cabinet. But I will load this black beauty up and see what happens. <br>

John </p>

<p>Thanks for all who responded to my inquiry. I am trying to upload a photo of the camera in question to show it but I am new to the thread and am having difficulty doing it. As far as how much I paid for it. Too much I'm sure. I was bidding against a lot of other people at an estate auction and you know how that goes. UP, UP, UP. But hey I got it and it's a nice camera. As for the folks who are wishing to get one for 100-150 dollars. I wish you luck. It probably ain't going to happen. <br>

John</p><div></div>

<p>David and Craig<br>

Thanks for your input on my question. After re searching my McKeown's classic camera book I did locate the serial number for this camera. I had overlooked it the first time I perused the serial numbers. The camera is a Model III as I suspected and was made in 1934. Thanks again for your response to my inquiry.<br>

John</p>

<p>I just purchased a vintage Leica III (black) rangefinder camera at an estate sale. It appears to be the real Mccoy except that the serial number on this camera cannot be found in my McKeown's antique and classic camera book. This book lists all the serial numbers from Leica cameras from 1923 to 1971. The camera has the roller sensor tip on the RF sensor and it has the VF bezel on the front of the view finder so I am convinced that it is not a fake but the serial number has me a bit baffled. Does any one out there have any explanation for this? <br>

Thanks<br>

John</p>

<p>Are all photos submitted to Nikon Wednesday actually displayed or are they juried by someone?<br>

John P.</p><div></div>

This is my first time adding a photo to Nikon Wednesday I really

enjoy all the beautiful shots.<div></div>

<p>I thank everyone who responded with some input on my inquiry. And I have done some other research on some other ultra super zooms ie. Nikon P100, and a couple of the Canon power shots the S3 IS and the SX 20 IS and they all sound pretty good. Just have to make a choice. I'm sure I'll be happy with whichever one I choose. Thanks again.<br>

John P.</p>

<p>I have been doing some research on ultra zoom point and shoot cameras and what I read about the Panasonic Lumix FZ35 sounds very good. I will be using it basically for outdoor shooting, scenery, landscape, wildlife and a great macro feature for flowers and insects is a must. Any information and input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks<br>

John P.</p>

<p>John Bernard, Once again I thank you for responding. I put brand new Duracell alkaline batteries in the camera when I first got it. The battery indicator in the LCD screen is showing full battery charge. I double checked the lock button on the 50mm AF lens and it is locked into the F/22 position. I did rewind the film that I had originally put in the camera and put a fresh roll of fuji negative 400 ISO film in. The camera advanced to the number 1 photo position and the blinking err display had disappeared and the aperture and shutter speed was both displayed in the view finder and the LCD panel. After taking the 1st picture it went right back to the blinking err in both the viewfinder and the LCD panel. I pretty much tried about everything I thought I should do. I'm not a professional photographer by any stretch but I have been using SLR cameras since about 1970 but this N90s just does not want to cooperate. Maybe I should stick with my F3, I know how to use the manual kind. :) Thanks again John<br>

John P.</p>

<p>John, I appreciate the input but I forgot to mention in my thread that I did have the lens locked in to the smallest f/22 aperture and I am still getting the err blinking in the LCD panel and the viewfinder. No fee blinking anywhere on the camera. So the lens not being locked into the smallest fstop is not the problem I don't think. <br>

John P</p>

<p>I recently purchased a Nikon N90s body. I fitted it with an almost new Nikon AF 50mm 1:1.8D lens. I loaded a roll of Fuji 400ISO negative film into the camera and after making several exposures, instead of the camera showing the aperture and shutter speed in the viewfinder and the LCD panel, the letters err started blinking at both locations. I checked the trouble shooting section of the cameras manual and found where it said if err blinks inside the viewfinder and LCD panel that a non DX coded film or film with an unacceptable DX code is loaded. Set manually to correct film speed. When I loaded the film the LCD panel did show in fact that it was loaded with 400 ISO film. I pushed the ISO button manually and the LCD panel shows that yes, it is loaded with 400 ISO film. The camera still fires off an exposure and the film advances. But I have no idea at what aperture or shutter speed. Has anyone experienced this issue with a Nikon N90s or F90X? I admit that I am new at using this camera and I followed the steps in the manual for basic shooting. I am on frame number 15 and probably about 5 or 6 frames it actually worked as it should showing the aperture and shutter speed that the camera selected. I would appreciate any input.<br>

John P.<br>

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<p>Thanks to all who responded. I did buy new batteries and low and behold that is what the problem was. The reason I didn't think it was the batteries is because I had just put new batteries in on Sept. 11th. of 2008. Just goes to show you new batteries even though they were duracell can be bad. I'm thinking that the extreme cold we had here in the midwest may have killed those batteries. I always carry my camera when we go anywhere and it has mighty cold lately. Very happy to learn that it wasn't a more serious problem. Thanks to all.<br>

John P.</p>

<p>Was shooting photos this morning with my Nikon F3 and all of a sudden when I pushed the shutter release button down nothing happened. I had just taken a shot 30 seconds earlier. Thought maybe I didn't advance the film so when I tried to cock the film advance lever it wouldn't move either. Any one else experience a similar problem with thier Nikokn F3?<br>

John P.</p>

Paul I have an old 1946 Leica III C and just amazed at the results I get with it. I think they are a blast to use and chuckle when the younger folks with their little digitals ask me if I can still buy film for "that old relic". Your pics. are great.

John Pender

I just acquired a used but in nice shape yashica 200 AF 35mm camera. The

problem I'm having is trying to install batteries. Is there supposed to be a

battery holder inside of the compartment to secure the batteries? I appreciate

any response. Thanks in advance.

John P.

Mike; Thanks for answering my original question. I really appreciate all the great feedback that I get when I post a question on this forum.

John P.

Thanks for the super quick response to all. I think Fred and Erik hit it. I didn't realize that stacking filters would cause the problem. duh!! This great web site was made for amateurs like me to ask questions. I did have a skylight filter under the polarizer. I will try shooting without the skylight under the polarizer and see what happens. Thanks to all.

John P.

When I shoot with my 35mm lens on my F3 with a polarizer filter I get some

vignetting or darkened areas in the corners of the photo. If I used a linear

polarizer instead of the circular would that problem go away?

John P.

As usual I received many helpful answers to my posted question. I want to thank each and every one who responded. I wish everyone a great holiday season.

John P.

I just recently acquired a beautiful Minolta SRT 101 that appears to be in

mint condition. The original battery to power the meter was a PX625 mercury. I

understand that they are no longer available in the U.S. Is there a

replacement battery made for this camera without having to buy any kind of an

adapter? What are my options?

John P.

Matthew; Thanks for your response to my question on a flash unit for my old Minolta's. I appreciate the response.

John P.