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charlie_chan2

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Posts posted by charlie_chan2

  1. From my discussions with Tom A, the leica rapid load kit won't work with the M2 rapidwinder. You should contact Tom A to see if he is making the M2 RW any more. It was only a 200 unit run from memory. I have one and it is on my M2 permanently (and I agree with others that the M2 is my favourite M body too).

     

    The softies are good if you like that sort of thing (and at least they're cheap).

     

    Personally i don't use a case, although i do have a spare Luigi half case for my M2.

     

    The rewinder attachment is something I've not tried although I have a M6TTL as well which does have a rewind crank.

     

    Ultimately what is mated to my M2 permanently - the TA rapidwinder and my 35 lux.

     

    Charlie

  2. I'm pleased to hear such good reports about using the Tamron on a Pentax digital body. I had a Tamron 300/2.8 too, but used it on my Leica DMR and occasionally on my Pentax MX. I tested it side by side with my Leica APO 280/2.8, There was very little between them. A few times, I've recommended people buying one of these for their Pentax cameras and I'm delighted to see it delivering the goods.

     

    Charlie

  3. Charles,

     

    The V35 won't do anything other than 35mm downwards. Masks were available to do everything down to the minox 8x11mm neg. However, it is a fabulous 35mm enlarger. I have one at home and it's so easy to use, once the autofocus is setup for your easel. If you want adaptability to 6x7 in a Leica, then you need a Focomat 2c. They tend to go for about USD 1500 if you can find one! I bought mine a couple of months ago, so I could print my XPAN images.

     

    Charlie

  4. Ian,

     

    Get a R8. there's a mint- R8 at Aperture in Museum St for GBP450. It's bigger

    (much bigger) than the older Rs, but ergonomically it's great. Short of a SL2 VF, it's

    the brightest VF in the R range. I love my R9/DMR - it's so good, I'm not sure I'll

    need a R10 if it comes out. For those who don't belive that Leica make good R

    glass, here's a shot from tonight. I went to see Duffy at our local music festival in

    Cheltenham - truly fabulous. I even had some Canon pros ask me about my 180/2

    Summicron R!!!

     

    Oh and I do use my Ms too - M6TTL, M2 and CLE. But they're different tools.

     

    Charlie

  5. I developed a roll of Agfa ISS from 1970 a few months ago. Gave it about half a stop more on

    the developing and hey presto - usable negs. That was a great delight as these were images

    of my Grandfather, who passed away in 1981. The roll was found in the back of one of his

    old cameras.

     

    Charlie

  6. One that you'll use, as opposed to ogle at. No seriously, they're all good at their job. In this

    sort of area, you'll just be happy to use one. I have a M6TTL, M2 and a Minolta CLE. they're all

    different. Maybe the best is the one I use most, in which case that'll be the M6TTL (swearing

    I hear in the background!).

     

    Charlie

  7. Sounds like you're asking the M8 to do too much. Macro/micro work is the domain of the

    SLR. Personally i don't own a M8, but I do have R9/DMR. Again, there's no contest between

    the RAW and jpeg files. I shot jpeg once and never again.

     

    If you like the M shooting style (as opposed to wielding a large SLR), then persist with the

    M8 and learn more about your digital workflow. Pick a RAW converter that you're happy

    with, LR, Aperture, C1 or whatever and when funds permit, buy another second hand lns.

     

    Charlie

  8. If I'm shooting in rehearsals, then the 180/2 cron on a R is just the ticket (I use a R9/DMR

    with monopod).

     

    http://contest.leica-users.org/main.php/v/0705/Gloves+on+nurses_.jpg.html

     

    If it's during a live theatre show then the 75 lux for a M is my favourite.

     

    At gigs, I can use a 80-200/4 ROM on my DMR. Noise is not really an issue at rock gigs, as

    the volume's up anyway.

     

    http://www.gallery.leica-users.org/v/topoxforddoc/Squeeze-8731961.jpg.html

     

    Charlie

  9. Byron,

     

    If you get over to vancouver at all, look up Tom Abrammsson and his fellows. They normally

    meet up every friday morning for coffee. Email him at his site (www.rapidwinder.com). I can't

    remember which cafe it is, I know his regular cafe is cafe Viva across the road from his

    apartment, but he'll let you know where they all meet on Fridays.

     

    Charlie

  10. If can only get one lens, get the 28-90 Asph. I use mine with my R9/DMR. This lens sits on

    my R9 90% of the time. Don't forget, you can use the R lenses on your digilux 3 with an

    adapter too. What you get after the 28-90 depends on what you shoot. If it's sport/ wildlife,

    the 280/4 APO-Telyt, if it's landscapes etc, the 19/2.8 Elmarit. Enjoy - if you can find a used

    DMR, I guarantee you'll just sell your Digilux 3.

     

    Charlie

  11. Byron,

     

    You mentioned that you're impatient. If you develop your own film, you will have a much

    faster service than any shop. For B&W, you can have the film developed, washed and up to

    dry within the hour. It'll be dry say within 3 hours. I don't know of any labs who'll do B&W

    much quicker, and that's only in daylight hours!! The satisfaction of doing your own

    darkroom work is fantastic. The whole image is yours from conception to finished product

    - magic, that's what my six year old calls it!

  12. Byron,

     

    Congratulations. For the cost of a leica uv filter, you'll be able to buy the kit to develop your films. Once you do it yourself, you will never ask anyone else to do it. Even my six year old helps me now.

    You need a developing tank, a daylight changing bag, scissors, can opener (or film opener), some measuring jugs, a thermometer, some chemistry and a watch. Buy a book like Michael Langford's Darkroom handbook and practise loading an old film onto a developing tank spiral. Use some easy chemistry - single shot developer in liquid format eg ilfosol, rodinal or something similar. Get some STOP and FIXER (any brand will do).

    It is REALLY easy to do. Hang your wet film up to dry from your shower rail with a couple of paper bulldog clips.

    Be brave - have a go!

     

    Best wishes,

     

    Charlie

     

    Email me if you need any more advice

    topoxforddoc@btinternet.com

  13. Peter,

     

    I saw a mint boxed 180 cron go on the bay for less than 600 GBP about a month ago; I've seen others go for GBP1300-1400. I almost bid for it myself, even though I bought one from Leica UK as an ex-demo lens earlier this year. Exotic leica r glass prices are in free-fall

     

    Charlie

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