justin_thornton1

Hello.

Hey I?d like to welcome to Photo.net hope you fine it extremely useful and friendly.

 

Well The 400D does make a little beep sound when it is in focus by default. As for the gold plated.?

 

The EF 50mm 1.4 USM does have a faster AF, but is extremely quiet (Ultra Sonic Motor Just in case you didn?t know.) Now the EF 50mm 1.8 II lens has good AF but it does not use the USM so it makes this really noticeable BUZZ sound when it moves. That may be a bad thing for you might not be just a consideration. (personally the Buzz sound does not bother me unless I am in a situation where I don?t want my subject to notice me.) they both really great lenses. Though got to remember that Field Of View Crop (FOVC) that makes the 50mm a 80mm equivalent.

 

As for Depth Of Field, well that really depends on how far away your subject is and the aperture But just for a reference when shooting a subject at 2.5 m (8.2 ft) at f/1.8 that will give you about 22 cm (8.7 in) of DOF. I have found that to be plenty of DOF for faces and gives the background (especially when the background wall is a couple of meters (yards) away) a nice smooth background.

 

As for your exposure, in natural inside light. Depends on how bright it is. Typically its anywhere from 8-5 EV That is about 1/80? to 1/10? respectively at f/1.8, 100 ISO, I?d think that raising it up to 200-400 ISO would give you a good speed above 1/125 sec. Just try some shots and see how they come out. Good luck

 

Good luck and enjoy

 

Justin Thornton

Hello.

 

I have not had that on go on me but I know with my really old EOS elan it sounded slightly different was all and then the exposures started to come out strange. Some times it would be lighter on the top and then it when to the point I would have a third or a half of the frame darker.

 

I have heard the same from many other people that it just will show up in the pictures before it completely fails

 

Good news its not too much to replace it and that number is just an approximant so you may have many many shots left just enjoy shooting

 

Good luck

Justin Thornton

Hello welcome to the fun.

 

Being new to the SLR system can be a challenge to learn, but with some study and patients you will get the hang of it.

 

As the poster above mentioned click on the learn tab above and there are some helpful articles. I would also highly suggest a site made by Canon to introduce new users to the SLR system in very easy to understand language.

 

I don?t know what you know so I don?t mean any offence with the basic sense of this

 

It is

http://web.canon.jp/Imaging/enjoydslr/index.html

Highly recommend for a really basic termed explanation of the SLR system and what all the different camera settings do.

 

I suggest definitely reading parts 1-4. The 5th part is about printing and is interesting to read for a beginner. In it they will compare it a lot with a simple point and shoot. Really good first introduction to how it all works.

 

One of the things you have to learn about is how Shutter speed, aperture, and ISO (sensor?s sensitivity to light) and how they each effect a how the exposure comes out. You will get it in no time.

 

Also try to see if you can get a college course if your really into it or get a good photography 101 book.

 

Good luck enjoy shooting

 

Justin T

Why not just head to the local camera store and them both out? I know one here that has 5d, 30d, 20d, and the rebel XTi behind the counter for display and trial runs. Why not try both of them and see how each ?Fits you.? The camera store associates also will help you with your questions.

 

If you don?t have a camera shop that has them to try out in the store maybe rent one if you can. If not?. Well walmart has the Rebel XTi tethered in the camera section to try.

 

If you can get your hands on both of them before you make a chose.

 

Just my two cents

 

Justin T

A really good subjection I have for you is find a light that has a white beam and a red one.

 

This is what I use when I am outside in the dark. I bought it at Dicks sporting goods for I think $40. Its super bright and sharp light. And the red light is great for not lessining your night vision. Realy good for looking at camera settings and orientation and if need be spot light something to focus on. i mainly use the red light on this. Great battery life too.

 

http://www.coastcutlery.com/displayProduct.php?prodid=263&prodnums=%BF600%A1269%A1268%A1264%A1263%A1260%A1270%A1267%A1276%A1277%A1265%A1271%A1272%A1273%A1274%A1275%A1261%A1262%BF&mastCat=5

 

I really recommend having a red beam for preserving your night vision when your looking in your camera bag for something or looking for roots that may trip you. I have found it dose not startle or scare off many animals if you use red light. And also it attracts far less attention from people.

 

Good luck hope that helps, try a red light at night.

 

Justin T

Well no you don?t see the whole picture that will be taken, but you will see about 95% or so. That?s due to the viewfinder limitations.

 

What you see in your view finder is really only a reference for what the camera will take when you push down the shutter button for a number of reasons.

 

As before said, viewfinder limitations so you will not see 100 of the area that will be captured, its really small though. Unless your using a really wide angle lens it really is negligible.

 

For example:

 

That 5% you can?t see though the view finder with a 50mm lens would only be about a 0.2 m (about 0.7 feet) of a subject focused 6 m (about 20 feet) away

 

But same subject with a 14 mm lens and its Nearly a meter (about 2.5 feet)

 

Now with a 200mm lens that?s only about 5 cm (about 2 inches)

 

It can be a problem.

 

For example the diagram I posted below, inside the red box is about what you see though a view finder, and out side of it is what the camera will capture.

 

You can see that in the red box you can?t see the pile of sticks in the lower left hand corner but when you take the picture and look at it you will see them there.

 

You have to take in count a litle bit but not much.

 

Hope that helps a some

 

Justin T<div></div>

I have been looking around for a camera bag for some time and was surprised to

see one at this local discount store. (Normally they have really old generic

stuff and oddities, very behind the times) It is a Lowepro Reporter light 200.

For $19.99. I am wondering if this is a good deal for the camera bag. I can not

find it online to compare a price to. But seems good considering the New

Reporter stealth 200 is nearly $100.00. I thought from that it was so I bought one.

 

If your in the greater Binghamton (aka Binghamton NY) area, go check it out at

the discount store in the old Aims plaza. Last I checked they had well over 40

left, all in untouched condition. (but for the ones people looked though).

 

If you have the camera bag or have used it in the past I would like to hear what

you think of it.

 

I really just looking to see if this is a good deal. And Letting anyone in the

greater Binghamton area know about it. Also could some one tell me what they

normally go for?

 

Thanks for your time. (for the silly question)

Justin Thornton

well if you are willing to use a dedicated EF-s mount take a look at the EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM. it equals 16-35mm FOV From what I have read it is Tack sharp.

take a look at

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/lenses/Canon-10-22mm-test.shtml

and

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-10-22mm-f-3.5-4.5-USM-Lens-Review.aspx

Looks like a good lense for th 20D. i would love to give it a testdrive some day if not buy it.

Well just showing another option

good luck and enJOY

DPI on the files is nearly mening less its something you can change easily. at a printing resolution you can get about an 11x17 at 200 DPI or at 300 you can get 8x12 but i have printed 8x10s at less DPI than the ones above and they have came out great (mayby not as good as 300DPI at less than one foot (.3 meter) but at a good 2 or 3 (0.6 or ~1 meter) feet viewing distents i could not tell the diference.)

 

hope that help

 

enJOY

Jeez. People still nit picking over pixels. 8.2 to an 10.2 Mega pixels gives you 368 horizontal and 256 pixels vertical. That translates into maybe less that an inch in print size at 300 DPI other than that 2 more Mega pixels in the same size sensor give you little more but more noise. Just look at http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond200/page21.asp and compare it with http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos20d/page20.asp (Yes I know it�s the 20d but the 20d and the 30d have the same sensor.) is 368 horizontal and 256 more pixlles vertical realy worth more money and drastically more noise?

 

Yes I do agree with you that they should do whether sealing. I mean come on! Dam its like what a 10 (IF that) cent ring of rubber that is squished between to surfaces in its basic form. I think they do that so people who need it can�t get away with spending so little on a camera

 

Well that�s what I think

 

enJOY

I Resentaly Purchaced a Canon EF 50mm f/1/8 MKI lense athat the ebay lister said had been in storage for a long time. When i first got the lens the focus was very slow and rough, also uneaven. for about a week i would just now and then i would take it and move it from infinity to close and back a feew times and over the week it has become really smooth and even (can move it easliyl with one pinky lol) Just try that for a bit.

 

I bet what happend was that the greas just settled and needs to be worked though the parts again. give it a try just like for few mins a day. or even longr if you want.

 

good luck enJOY

you can't see it in the photo but there is a white line in the center where one monitor ends and the other begins

I highly recomend geting a dual monitor set up, one can be big and one can be small it dosent matter but defintaly consider it. For me I have 2 17 inch monitors side by side and when i use photoshop i have all my Pallets in one monitor and just the image and one bar in the other. you can resize thies anyway you want to and its realy neat to play with lol.

 

I also included a picture of how you can have it set up so you can have more picture viewible and more palets (even enabiling lorger layer thumbnails so you can acualy see what in the layer lol) well good luck<div></div>

Yeah they do not have Live View. for the reasons above. you sound prity new to the SLR areana and as said above they are realy diferent animles.

 

here is a web site by Canon that is extreamly helpful to new SLR owners. I highly recomend you check it out. It puts alot of things into prospective between Point and Shoots and SLRs also puts it all into a siple language we all can understand. takes about 30 mins to read the whole things and by the end you will know many advanced things about how Aapperature, shutter speed and senser sensitivity all work togeather along with focal lenth and focus.

 

http://www.canon.co.jp/Imaging/enjoydslr/index.html

 

check it out and enJOY!

Well I do know this that canon flashes are trigred wierlessly by an

Infrared pulse.

 

Look at http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?act=ModelTechSpecsAct&fcategoryid=141&modelid=8304

and look under Transmission System thats how they fire eachother

 

Hope that helps

 

enJOY

Personally I find it best to Use both depending on the situations

If your lens supports Full Time Manual focus (FTM) then you can use this technique I have found helpful. What you do is use AF to get a base line and then fine tune it to your likening after you have locked focus

 

But other wise this has been helpful for me�

 

Manual focus when

 

In Low light (unless you want to put up with focus hunting)

 

Sharpness is of utmost importance or you have lots of time to obtain optimal focus. (such as Still life and other objects that don�t move and have fine detail)

 

When you know exactly were your subject is going to be. (pre focus for that and shoot right when they get there.)

 

In some sports such as baseball (batters, pitchers) and basket ball (free through rim action) where you can predict where the action will be.

 

As said before on shots that can not be redone (to a degree, for example when the time it would take to manually focus would mean you missed the event. Aka NASCAR accident (then again there you pretty much zone focus anyway))

 

Use AF when

 

In bright surroundings with lots of edge detail. (AF is fastest on strait hi contrast lines.)

 

When you are pressed for time and sharpness is not that important.

 

Other times you don�t want to Manually focus and are willing to accept that it may not be right.

 

Good luck and experiment and see witch is best for you. There are many situations (as you probably have seen where AF goes nuts and just makes everything a blur )where sometimes you just wonder why you even put it in AF and then just switch it to MF and shoot.

 

EnJOY

This link

http://web.canon.jp/Imaging/enjoydslr/index.html

I think would be extremely helpful. Though it is brief and more oriented towards canon dSLR Owners but it has really good information about how ISO, f/# and Shutter speed work together, and has many good tips for beginners. Also it animates and demonstrates many of the concepts visually and has a very easy to understand language.

 

You can probably skip part 1 It just tells you about dSLR and compares it to compact point and shoots. Its short though.

 

Part 2 Is definitely one part you want to check out, it will show you all about the �three gateways for light� and how each effects your photo

 

Part 3 is good for telling you different methods. Though a lot protian to dSLR

 

Part 4 is good to check out to has information about exposure compensation along with other techniques on exposure

 

Part 5 is about printing.

 

I would defintaly recommend you check out part 2 though it will give you a good idea of how aperature, ISO and shutter speed work to geather to produce the right expoture

 

Good luck and best of shooting

hello

Here is a link of the one that some lead me to. hope it helps. The PDF is in the page just have to scrole down a lil bit

 

http://www.krages.com/phoright.htm

 

Justin

Hello

 

I don�t know much about the group shots. However, for other general golf shots there are many that you can make. I personally tend to stay away from tee off shots, and also look for good emotional reaction shots from the golfers as they try to get a birdie or sink a really tough shot. Sand trap shots are great ones.

 

Mostly just be creative and keep an open eye.

 

Now hmm� might be hard with the shorter lenses you have listed. But they are doable. The one thing about making photographs of golf is it�s a sport were you are extremely limited (even public cheep-o you really can only shoot from the sidelines cart paths.) Also in most tournaments there are multiple rounds going on at once. I highly recommend an golf cart to get around quickly. I highly recommend talking to the maniger or some one with the coarse on rules and most of all proper etiquette. You may or may not know it all.

 

One note you defiantly want to consider is noise from your camera. The 20D is quite a loud camera compared to some. You may want to see how far the sound travels because I have photographers reprimanded because there camera�s were too loud. Ask about that and pay attention to the reactions of the golfers and people around them. If they look like they are bothered maybe switch to a longer lens and back up. But it shouldn�t be too bothersome.

 

Good luck hope you have a great shoot

 

Justin

<div></div>

Here is a strategy that probably will work good for you. It has worked well for me.

What you do is have 2 batters put one in the camera and put one in the bag. The on in the bag put a little pace of clear tap on the side so you know its charged.

 

When out in the field or were ever and you battery in the camera goes flat, you switch it with the one in the bag (make sure you take the peace of tape of so you know the one in the bag is discharged) Then when you get back from your shoot recharge you battery in your bag and then when its done, put some tape on the side again, so you know its charged.

 

This works really well for me and have never been stuck out on a shoot with a dead battery. I always have one that is full to use. Just make sure that when you swap the two to take the tape off and when you get back to recharge the discharged one.

 

Hope you the best of luck

Sort of reminds me of a Loreo Product (Link here-->http://www.loreo.com/pages/products/loreo_lubot.html) that works similor to that. It uses their lens in cap and the 10x Lubot. they fit together exactly and they make great macro shots. its awesome that you found that out lol. looks like it takes great shots. congratulations.

Well I do not know if this will help you at all but her in the US their official name is

Transitions glasses. They are sensitive to UV light witch is what makes them changing

color. If you eliminate the UV light then they will not changing color.

 

Asking the people to put the glasses in their glasses away for a little bit does work.

Depending on the age of the transitions it can take anywhere from 2.5 minuets to about

15. They change from light to dark faster than they do from dark to light. Also the

brighter and clearer the day the faster they will change. Some times near instant on a

cloudless snow on the ground day.

 

So when you have them put them back on depending on the weather they might turn

rather quickly.

 

There really is no other solution that keeping them out of UV light for a time.

I am new to the EOS system but I have the 50mm F/1.8 II And I must say its worth the $80 even if latter you decide to get the 1.4. The 50mm F/1.8 Is a dream at low light conditions. Especially if your use to shooting with slower lenses. I don�t know about the other lenses. Sorry

Defiantly would try turning it off and removing the battery. The EOS system has a dummy light when its in Manual focused which is what you saw. However, sounds like the camera did not read the lenses right that it was in AF. defiantly try turning it off and roving the battery.