jameshaskins

<p>As advised, I'm paid and will move on! Thanks guys.. I was just hoping someone had a "quick-fix" trick.<br>

AS always I really appreciate the help. I love this site.</p>

<p>Best,<br>

James</p>

<p>I'm thinking maybe i'll just pay the 150 and then try to sell it. I see that prices for this camera are still decent.<br>

John, good point! I'm always super careful though! :) However, the problem is the camera body and not the lens.<br>

Thanks again!</p>

<p>Thanks Bill,</p>

<p>I was hoping this was a common issue that can be self-fixed. I'm just trying to find a way around the $150.</p>

<p>Hello!<br>

<br />A year and a half ago I bought a Nikon D5100 to use only for video. I've only used it a handful of times, but a couple month ago it fell out of my backpack and took a hit. For the light marks I noticed there is a sign on the body and the 18-55 lens that the camera came with. <br>

<br />When I turn on my camera it says "lens not attached" and it won't allow me to do anything. The only option is to put it on manual. Once it's on manual the mirror will "click" and I can shoot video or take photos, but it still won't let me change the aperture. <br>

I have tried my camera on different lenses both old and new, and I have tried my lenses on different d5100 bodies. The lenses always work, so the problem is the camera body. </p>

<p>Does anyone know how to fix this? I have tried cleaning all the circuits and done all that stuff, but it won't work. I took it to Nikon and they want $150! </p>

<p>Any ideas?! Thanks and your help is very much appreciated!</p>

<p>James</p>

<p>Thanks everyone for your input, good or bad. Some may disect and analize my first post, and then you can make what you will of it. Some people just have the urge to point fingers. <br>

The point is, i just came to hear about the possability of doing this about two days ago, and was pretty shocked. Exactly cause its a lot of work to put these programs together and because they are so expensive, that it would even be possible to copy them so easily. <br>

Some seem to have taken it personaly as if someone were stealing your own photos, which is a big concern to all professional photographers. I'm no professional but i'd have issues if people were taking my photos. <br>

There is no backpedaling here.. it's a discussion about something i know nothing about. It's obvious my posts are going to differ one from the other. I don't find that very difficult to understand. <br>

Now that everyone seems to be "finger pointy happy", i'll take my shot at it. NOBODY has ever bought a fake gucci purse for their wife, a wallet on your trip to thailand, a fake rollex, a pair of sunglasses?? <br>

I feel i need to explain this too.. before getting so jumpy on accusing people take a look at the same thing outside of your comfort zone. We are all protective of OUR work or anything that has to do with photography, but when we talk about other stuff, im interested in hearing what those same people have to say. (p.s. just so some of you don't have a fit, i don't buy sunglasses or fake rollexes.)<br>

It's amazing how easy it is to copy programs and do piracy, but how difficult it is to talk about it or find answers on the web. <br>

With that, i appreciate your input and will gladly post my FCE videos once i have saved enough money TO BUY THE PROGRAM.</p>

<p>Im not here saying i'd do it. I'm simply asking what is the pubblic opinion. <br /> Some people act as if i said gods name in vain. Hello people! It's like when people get suprised cause they find out their 30 year old daughter isnt really a virgin before getting married. "omg he used the p-word on a forum! (piracy)"<br /> Im not saying id do it cause a lot of people do, but im asking why can so many people do it? espescially if its nearly ALL of the university students.<br /> so try to understand im not asking anyone to help commit a crime but to give me a logic reason to how this can even be possible..<br /> To say the truth i was quite suprised myself that it could even be possible..<br /> and once i have saved a few bucks i will buy FCE......with a student/faculty discount.<br /> Is everyone happy? or is the beer still too strong?</p>

<p>Hello, <br>

I just got my first macbook pro (13" 2.4 ghz + external hd) and im very excited! i love it.. <br>

I have over 25 hours of video that i eventually need to edit and put together.. <br>

I want to get right into final cut and not waist too much time on imovie, so ive been looking around.<br>

I was told to just download it on one of the many sites (non torrent), where its possible to get it for free. I am NOT a professional and will not use any of my work to make money. It seems too good to be true because there are lots of programs that go for over a grand, here you can get them for free in 20 min. <br>

My question is this, do the downloaded versions have any differences from the original? does my computer risk anything? ( i know mac's don't get viruses).<br>

A friend that told me about this said that ALL university students download their programs, wether it's final cut or design programs for engineering etc.. all of which cost over 1000$. No student has that kind of money.. As long as it's not used for commercial perposes.</p>

<p>Anyway, i googled the heck out of this question and oddly couldn't find answers. Is it worth doing?</p>

<p>Thanks a lot</p>

<p>lots of great ideas guys.. thanks! Im trying to sell my bronica kit now..<br>

However ill look into the TLR's and check out the mamiya's and fold cameras. The 645's seems great, but id like a 6x6 camera..</p>

<p>sorry for the late reply, but there's a lot of great advice here!!<br>

thanks again</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I had a lot of help from this site in choosing my MF camera that im using now. I think its great, but its not fitting all my need at the moment. Im using a ZENZA BRONICA SQ-AI with three lenses: 40mm, 80mm, 150mm. All clean and working good. I also have the speed grip and waistlevel finder + accessories, but its still not fast enough for me. (meaning its takes too much time to set up and take the shot)<br>

I was looking for a high definition camera with great lenses. One of these lenses had to be wide, so for medium format a 40mm.<br>

I've been using it now for over a year and it makes great shots, but i feel a bit limited. Its too slow at times and for travel a street needs, its a bit too bulky. I also have the speed grip and waistlevel finder + accessories, but its still not fast enough for me. (meaning its takes too much time to set up and take the shot). I could go on with it, but im searching the market for a easy-handle kind of camera that still has top quality optics. Hassleblad and the super expensive rollies are out of my budget.<br>

Does anyone have any suggestions? Preferably with a exposure meter incorporated..im trying to sell my bronica now, but in the mean time im looking around. If it helps, i develope and print in the darkroom..</p>

<p>Thanks again<br>

James</p>

<p>thanks thanks thanks thanks...... funny posts too ;) lol..<br>

i guess ill just have to get used to both. trying to meter on a patch of grass should be useful. <br>

Does this mean that if i expose for landscapes then i have to use reflective? because i cant walk up to the mountain to meter what light its under.. and for street photography i immagine that its mainly incident with a lot of guessing....right?</p>

<p>Thanks again everybody, and any further ideas or suggestions on metering is helpfull!<br>

james</p>

<p>hello, this may be a stupid question, but is it normal that my bronica (sq-ai) waistlevel finder shows the immage reversed? i mean if i have a person on the left of me, then on the screen it shows on the right. it makes it really difficult to get the subject where i want it. espescially when i need to take a quick shot while doing street photography..<br>

anythings to fix this? or is it something you just need to get used to?</p>

<p>also, i am starting to use my luna pro sbc light meter and trying to figure out how the readings work. between incident and reflective readings i always have about 2 stops of difference on the same subject in about the same lighting. i cant decide which reading to use..</p>

<p>thanks for your help<br>

james</p>

<p>great great..thanks guys. gonna go out and try..</p>

<p>wow great answers and exaples. my bronica works, but sometimes goes a bit crazy. i think my best option would be to get the attachement to haver the 15° "spot". also because i want to measure more parts of the same shot (a bit zone system). for example a close up portrait of just the face and shoulders. id like to measure the backround, then the eyes and shoulders. then i would make my average. as for street or travel photography i wouldnt have the time, so it would be a quick reading then shot. i think understanding more or less what readings to do in certain situations is usefull. otherwise a bit of practice rolls. i still have trouble understanding what the meter is measuring if there is no eyehole to look into. and thanks!</p>

<p>hello all,</p>

<p>i just bought my first hand held luna pro sbc meter. My AE metering prism for the Bronica sq-ai didnt cut it for me. so im going hand held. a few questions.<br>

Is it convenient when shooting anything but landscape? it seems like it would take a lot of time to make the reading then put down the meter, adjust the dials on the camera, point, focus and shoot. where as with a camera including a built in meter, you just point and turn the dials while you decide the shot to take. so for street,or travel photography it seems difficult.....am i wrong?<br>

Then there is reflective and incident lighting. i dont understand which to use and when. and i dont understand how you can see what your metering if your not looking through an eye hole like on the in-built camera meters.<br>

thanks for you help!<br>

james </p>

<p>hey all,<br>

im about to buy my first lightmeter. it will be a luna pro sbc (eventually with a spot attachment). On the site ive been told to be able to find one for about 50-70 bucks on ebay, but its not working out like that. and ive been waiting a long time. so i looked at keh and they have decent prices. so my question is: is a lightmeter in EX condition for 84 bucks worth it? i mean should i expect it to be accurate? i dont mind the bangs on the body but it must be accurate as new.<br>

if not anyother places i could look around to? im in italy, so shipping expenses area an issue.</p>

<p>thanks!<br>

james </p>

<p>wooooow, those are some great responses. So hypo clearing agents and and Photoflo-typeproducts are different. i wonder why they dont have a basic name for each purpose, instead of using different brand names. I now willbe using an "ORNANO" agent and will haveto find out if its a clearing agent or a photoflo. before i was using the ilford one (so according to Brooks, its was a photoflo), and i was doing a wash-aid-wash sequence. i wondered if that final wash made the aid part useless. GREAT ADVICE!<br>

i guess ill keep using the fixer untill........something tells me its gone bad. Hope it wont be my prints in a few months time!!<br>

happy holidays to everyone!<br>

AUGURI!<br>

james<br>

italy</p>

<p>thanks! when i say fixer i mean the already diluted solution. so 1+9 or 14 for ilford.<br>

as for the wash aid, i dont think its photoflo, its ilford wash aid. im supposed to dilute it 1+200, so i just put a few drops.</p>

<p>james</p>

<p>great! thanks guys! to my suprise, myfriend bought me a bag without me even ever talking to her about it. she got it right on! big enough. comfortable. andi think it was custom made so. dont remember the brand but its a backpack/shoulder style.</p>

<p>thanks again!<br>

james</p>

<p>hello,</p>

<p>was reading the wash aid instructions for film and it said to fix, then rinse then use wash aid then dry. so i dont need to rinse off the wash aid? each time i use it there are lots of bubbles and its soapy,so i dont see how it can dry evenly.</p>

<p>also, the fix (ilford rapid fixer) says that it will only last 7 days. so does that mean even if its barely used and closed to the brim in an airtight bottle? i used some 2 months ago, then stored it and used it again today. it seemed fine and the color of it was fine. so how can you tell? if its not true then how long will it last?</p>

<p>thanks!!</p>

<p>james</p>

<p>hey all,</p>

<p>searching for a bag for my bronica sq-ai system. I have three lenses (150,80,40) that need to fit with the body. ANY suggestions? obviously some room for film and what not. I can get a good idea with the online sites..</p>

<p>thanks!</p>

<p>james</p>

great...ill look into that. thanks guys!

 

what about the leak? i just need to change the back??

no, but you sound like your onto something.. im sure there were some that stayed in longer..

so the problem would be the back??

hey all,

 

have a few questions that im having trouble solving.

 

ive out using my Mf system. its a bronica sq-ai, with three lenses. 40mm, 80mm, and 150mm. plus th epolaroid

back and AE meter prism, along with the speed grip. I get the excitement to go out and take some shots but when i

think about hauling the stuff around in my small 35mm bag , the excitement goes away. Im looking into a MF bag,

and dont know wether to get the "backpack" style or the shoulder one. i would like to spend as little as possible,

buut with decent protectiona and a water proof quality.

 

as for the camera, im more or less happy. sometimes it stops on me and im still trying to figure it out. most of the

time its the battery....wooooow, it sucks the battery so quick! i cant leave in the batterys for a week, even without

taking shots. any battery adapters to last longer?

 

last question, is on my photos. i developed and printed my negs. quite a few photos came up with a strange light

streak from the lower right corner up about 4 cm. its not little streak. its about 1-1 1/2 cm wide. a few photos have it

a few dont. i thought it was to big to be a sun ray, and i believe its in photos where i was in the shade as

well.......any ideas?

 

 

THANKS!!

 

james

thanks guys, i thought that with dektol 1:2 ratio (11,4 lt) was making a lot of solution.too much. but thats great! its still expensive but not THAT expensive i guess.

 

any other input would be great. ill be checking this thread for a while.

THANKS!

James

hey everyone,

 

been reading about mixing and storage of chemicals and got confused. quick question.

tell me if im right or wrong here..

 

D-76; full strength (or stock) solution is when you dilute the WHOLE package with 3,8 lt of water. This stock solution

will last around 6 months in tight closed bottles.

 

1:1; is when you take the full strength (stock) solution of 3,8 lt and you add another 3,8 lt of water. therefore you

have 7,6 lt of 1:1 solution (working solution????). This solution can be used only once.

 

 

 

Dektol; full strength (stock) is the whole package diluted with 3,8lt of water.

 

1:2, is the stock solution PLUS 2x3,8 lt. so its 3,8lt of stock plus 7,6 lts of water to get the working solution.

THEREFORE its 11,4 lts of working solution.

 

IS THIS CORRECT?? these 1:1 and 1:2's and working solution, stock bla bla just gets me confused.....

 

 

 

thanks for your help,

 

James