seto_sai_hung

I was stupid enough to detach the metering unit of my Rollei 35 SE

away and now having problem figuring out how to fit it back. Anyone

here have expereince doing it and what position should the plstic

disc (the one that changes the amount of light hitting the CDS cell)

be when engaging it to the gear controlling it.

thx

Jeff,

Thanks ! Very Glad to Hear This !

My ETRsi arrived today, it is working fine but there is one small

issue regarding the MLU function that I would like to seek

experienced ETRsi users?comments on:

When I tested the Mirror lock up function with no lens installed, I

noticed that the Mirror has in fact been locked up to the top but the

compartment door (the door separating the body to the film back is

not fully locked up to the top with the mirror (hanging about ?inch

below the top position), but upon releasing the shutter it will jump

up to where it should be just like after a normal non MLU exposure.

I am sure this won�t affect the photo taking ability of the camera

but is this normal?

Thanks everyone,

I did find out about the extra equipment that I need for the JOBO system and did not run out to get one.

500ml of Tmax solution at recommended dilution cost approx 1 USD here in Hong Kong.

Not really very expenisve but is not cheap i would say. One roll of 120 for me work out like this :

Film : USD 3.5

Developer : USD 1.0

Fixer and other cost : USD0.2

TOTAL AROUND : USD4.7

I scan the negs , so no further cost unitl I print one out.

That's pretty cheap in fact, I didn't work it out before.

Now knowing 500ml solution is the norm, i have no problem using that much myself in the future, just that now I have to stock more developer at home.

WOW ! 2 rolls of 120 use same amount as 1 roll of 35mm?

That's very good , I shall fetch one from e-bay later.

I have been using the Agfa Rondinax 35 day light tank for 35mm rolls which requires 200ml solution only.

I use Kodak T-max developer at 1+4 strength as recommended on the bottle.

The Patterson system 4 developing tank that I am currently using

requires 500ml of solution to be used for a roll of120 film and I

think that�s a lot of developer as compared to the daylight tank that

I used for 35mm film which requires only 200ml of solution every

time.

1. If I want a tank for developing 120 film ONLY which system /

model will require the less amount of solution? (I like the loading

reel of the Patterson system 4 and would like to stick with this

loading method)

2. If I am to stick with 500ml solution (I use T-max @ 1+4), can

I re-use the developer and if so , for how many rolls of 120 film (if

it can do 2 or 3 safely I will be very happy about it) and how do I

calculate the compensation time needed ?

Thanks

I bought this 2nd hand SQ-ai with the standard 80mm lens, 120 back

and AE2 prism from a shop yesterday, while testing the camera at the

shop using the double exposure mode with no film inserted, everything

functioned perfectly and I couldn�t find even one single thing that

is not working as it should.

After shooting and developed 2 tests rolls. I noticed the following

problems:

when the camera is shooting with film loaded, the problem with the

shutter starts, sometimes it fires and sounds like at correct shutter

speed and photo came out OK , sometimes it sounds like it has the

shutter stayed open for longer than it should. for example: few sec

rather than ?sec as indicated by the AE prism (photo came out very

overexposed) or it might be firing much later (i guess) then when the

shutter is released perhaps 5 sec after I depressed the shutter

release, (photo came out very blurry, possible because I didn�t

anticipated it to fire at that moment (few sec after the mirror has

fliped open) and hence moving the camera). The mirror will flip open

immediately like normal whenever the shutter release is depressed.

To investigate into the problem further , I tested the camera again

and again and again with no film loaded using the double exposure

mode. No one single time has the shutter fired at incorrect speed as

far as my eyes can tell. from 1/500 to 16 secs at AE mode or a manual

mode , and all sounded perfect to me.

Also there are some film spacing problem in the developed rolls, but

nothing major, no overlapping just uneven spacing between frames.

Could someone suggest how could I test to see which part of the

camera is in fault?

(please note that the camera seems perfect when no film is loaded,

the only way to make it go wrong is when a roll of film is loaded)

kind of driving me crazy !!

I tested a few rolls of Neopan 400 rated at 800 and developed in Tmax 1+4 at 85% and 75% of the recommended time at 20degree C and both camoe out contrasty and I did not like the results.

I suppose I am not getting the hang of the developing time yet. Should I Try longer time or shorter time? or is it the developer?

I am currently using an Agfa Rondinax 35mm dayligh film processing

tank to develop my 35mm B&W film.

I would like to know if there are any similar tanks for developing

120 format film? And are they easy to find on Internet sites like e-

bay?

Sorry aboutthe bad link.

I shall post the message here as well but I think the photo size are too big for photo.net.

so I will place links to these photos instead of the whole question as a link.

Now the question:

I did my 2nd roll of self devlop film just now and the result was not as good as my first roll which the developing time was half min less and temp was 1 degree lower than this roll (5.5 mins @ 20 C).

Did i over developed the photos or did I simply under-exposed?

Here are negatives scanned using same setting without any modificaiton after scanning.

I used 3 different ISO setting on my Nikon FG to take the photos, the other photos on this roll were all shot at ISO800, so i was trying to develop with ISO800 in mind.

Film used was Ilford HP5+

Developer used was Kodak T-Max 1+4 for 6 minx @ 21C

ISO400

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14241

ISO800

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14242

ISO1600

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14243

i hope the links will work, if they do not work by direct click, please copy and paste it to your brower and it should then work.

On another roll of film , I hanged it with a heavy clip for 10 hours , but it is still curling quite badly, what else could I try?

Did I fix it for too long?

Please see my question posted at this link.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?

p=168584#post168584

My XA's metering system seems accurate enough for negatives under all resonable lighting environment.

I have read that the needle in the viewfinder does not reflect the actual shutter speed, its only a rough guide so its only the final result that can be used to gauge the accuracy of the exposure.

I like to shoot with my Rollei 35 too but sometimes its too heavy and a bit slow to operate as compared to the XA. The only thing I wish the XA could have is one or perhaps two higher stops max ISO setting.

Any possbile tricks to set higher ISO on the XA anyone?

Seems like I will have to hang it for drying a bit longer in the future.

Any suggestion as to what is the best air tempeture for drying ? I think I did it at around 24 C last night. I am living in Hong Kong and room temp. over the year could range between 15 - 30. How about hudmitity? to what extend will it affect drying and result?

My Minox GT is functioning perfectly except that once a while, once

or twice in a roll of 36s, it will give overlapped photos.

Seems like the sometiems the advance lever is advacing the shutter

but not full length of the take up spool and therefor the film. Is

it a easy fix? or will it be costy?

It feels like some gear is slipping sometimes while winding ,

espeically on the second stroke.

Last night I have developed a roll of HP5 at home and the am happy

with the result of it but after I have taken away the weight clip

which I have attached to the end of the film for hanging dry the

developed film, the film immediately coiled itself back into a single

roll.

Having finally able to cut it down into six strips with the help of

another person and inserted them into film sleever bag. I left it

under a stack of heavy books over the night trying to flatten it otu

but seems like it is only flattened by a very small amount this

morning and are not still not good enough for scanning.

Here is how I developed the film:

Tank : Agfa daylight developing tank Rondinax 35U

Film : Ilford 35mm HP5

Develop : 5.5 mins @ 20C

Water bath : Tap water @23C fill and discard 5 times

Fixer : 10 mins @ 20C

Wash : Tap water @23C 10 mins with 3 drops of wetting agent added for

final wash

Dry : Hanged dry with the cool fan approx 4 feet away from the

hanging film. (Took approx. 15 mins)

I am wondering if there is any procedural mistakes during my

development leading to such curled film strips or is it a common

problem with hand developed film and is there a quick / easy cure for

it?

Any advise will be appericated !

Seto

Dear all,

I own a few Minox, 1 GL and 2 GT, I do have to agreed that these some 20 years old Minox 35s do give under exposed photos.

Here are how photos came out from my cameras under reasonable lighting condition:

The GL : Spot on with no problem outdoor and indoor.

my first GT : consistently little under-exposed outdoor and indoor (about 1 stop)

my 2nd GT: Un-predictable and Unacceptably under-exposed (about 1-3 stops)

I have read recently on some old review and testing article on the Minox EL that the test result shows that it under-exposes photos by 1/2 stop under all lighting condition.

If you want a copy of that article, please e-mail me. It cost me money to obtain from online database but I am willing to share with you free of charge, so do ask.

From my experience the Minox will under-expose more under low light condition. I recently noticed that it might be due to the fact that the Minox light meter system only handle under ISO 100 from EV7 upwards. This mean that if you use the camera at say EV7 condition. The metering system might not work correctly. but I am not sure if this is correct, if there are expert around please do correct me if I am wrong better still confirm my understand is correct. :-)

Back to the topic Lomo Vs Minox, I am sure if the Minox is in full and true working order , that is exposing correctly or at with my 1st GT, within one stop error the result is much better than that from the Lomo except you like you photos to have dark corners and high contrast with not much details.

And from the above posted photos, they are even worst than the photos from my worst Minox GT. It will need a re-repair or it will need to be declaredfor display only.