darrengold

I'm with Bob. 512MB max. and carry a few. Still get 60 RAW on it from my D50 although it will be less on a D80, so you may want to go to 1GB if you shoot RAW. If you only shoot JPG then 512 will be plenty.

 

More baskets, fewer eggs.

 

Regards

For a Canon DSLR with a crop factor of 1.6x your calculations are absolutely spot on.

 

Regards

Sanford is right. Whichever way do it with the "mirror-up" setting and not on a bulb exposure. With the first the sensor is off. With the second it is on as it is taking a photo. The resulting static by having the sensor on can make it harder to get rid of all the dust.

See:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00JFLr&tag=

 

 

I bet the hotel will lend you their vacuum for a few minutes. Remember you want it on suck not blow and don't let it touch the sensor.

 

Enjoy the rest of your holiday.

1. F80 (UK) = N80 (USA) as previously answered.

 

2. Image quality dependent on film, lens and exposure not the 'camera', so long as the meter is accurate.

 

3. SB800 compatible with all. Will give you the TTL abilities available from the camera.

 

4. If I had a choice I'd get the N80/F80 as it can use G lenses.

 

Regards

Have a look on the transformer to your charger. If it says "Input 110-220V" (or 110-240V or something similar) then it will be OK. If it says 110V only you'll need an adapter.

 

Regards

I did think of trying Lightroom but then I would have to upgrade from Windows 2000Pro to XP which I don't really want to have to do just to try something out.

I recently started shooting with RAW. I downloaded RawShooter Essentials from

the Pixmantec website and thought it was pretty good. I then tried the trial

download of RawShooter Premium which was perfect for my needs.

 

On trying to purchase a licence I found that Pixmantec has been bought by Adobe

and now no longer offer Premium for sale. I assume it's to make us all try and

then buy Lightroom.

 

Does anyone have any ideas how I might get hold of it. My trial runs out in 5 days.

 

Merry Xmas.

I popped out this afternoon to take a few pics of a nice foggy afternoon. The

last few images looked like a bird was flying across the scene. Closer

inspection revealed a huge bit of dust/fluff on the sensor.

 

With the mirror up I placed the vacuum cleaner on full power with a nozzle

attachment just too big to get into the depths of the body but close enough, and

left it there for a few seconds. A test shot after showed a perfectly clean sensor.

 

No brushes, no need to touch the sensor. Someone posted this idea a while ago to

quite a bit of scepticism but it is easy, safe and reliable. Recommended.

 

Merry Xmas all.<div></div>

As she could have had all the images for $75 then it's only reasonable to offer her the $90. But, if you think she was trying it on, and it's hard to believe she made an honest mistake 11 times when downloading, why not give her $90 towards further prints rather than a cash refund.

 

It reduces her losses as well as yours without having to back down on the value of the order she made.

 

Regards

Thanks for the explanation Tim

 

Regards

I'm sure I'll get corrected if I'm wrong but if it's aperture dependent doesn't the 'fluff' have to be the other side of the diaphragm to the sensor?

 

I think it's your lens that need a good inspection. Hopefully its on the front element and not inside.

 

Regards

Bruce's comment is correct. Looking at the EXIF data of your pictures the exposure you used for no flash was the same as that for flash. ISO 1000, f4, 1/60th-1/80th sec.

 

By exposing for the ambient light and then adding flash you have two different and competing colour temperatures. If you want to shoot ambient don't add flash unless you are prepared to compensate with gels.

 

 

Or do as Bruce suggested underexpose the ambient by -2 stops, use a flash and balance for flash only.

 

If you had set the camera to 1/60th at f4 and turned the ISO to 200 you'd have been about perfect for flash at flash WB, and far less noise as well.

 

Regards

As mentioned already try a Fuji s9000/9500. You can turn off the artificially created shutter noise as a menu option and the camera is absolutely silent. It is an electronic not mechanical shutter so there are no moving parts at all.

 

From what I've heard the pictures are pretty good too.

 

Regards

Also have a look at this thread.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00IZxd

 

Regards

...and you can use it with the D40.

The sigma 12-24mm is usable on film and digital. No vignetting. Great lens.

All modes will be available. TTL and TTL-BL as well. The D feature is helpful sometimes as it gives the camera an idea at what distance the subject is placed wherever it may be in the frame.

 

The disadvantage is that the flash gun has to be used at 90 degrees and undiffused - which I hate. I invariably bounce or diffuse so a D lens is no use anyway.

 

TTL and -BL still work perfectly in these situations, but will occasionally get caught out if the subject is close and off to the side of the frame.

 

Regards.

Have a look at the Sigma 24-70 f2.8. A little wider than the 35, just as fast, nice and sharp and within your budget.

 

Regards.

If you didn't have a contract then neither of you have any legal standings. The money she has paid you could as Al Kaplan said, be for services so far rendered.

 

Send an invoice for at least as much, if not for more than she's given you and as said tell her as she's a friend of a friend you'll forget the difference and wish her well.

 

If she doesn't like it she can sue you. She won't. But on what grounds. You did the work, she paid and got a recipt for services rendered. Don't let possible legal action or worries of court make you a pushover. Very few people ever go to court.

 

In the end you have to decide which you want least. Her telling everyone you wouldn't give her deposit back when she cancelled at the last minute, or that people should hire you because even if they change their mind and cancel at the last minute you still refund the deposit.

 

If it were me she wouldn't be getting her money back. I'm not a totally heartless b'stard (if it were for a good reason eg bereavement, illness, etc etc) I would, but not because someone feels like taking the piss. Business is business.

 

Good luck.

Looking at the EXIF data your exposure compensation was +5. Probably explains it.

 

But no, you can shoot in manual and still use TTL.

 

Regards.<div></div>

On the basis that over the next few years you are likely to buy a new body (whether you buy the D200 or D800,) I would buy the D80 and the better lens. You'll always have the lens.

 

Regards.

Sometimes, nothing beats the flexibility or immediacy of my D50

 

Sometimes, nothing beats the smell of a new roll of film

 

Sometimes, nothing beats the sound of the motor on my Nikon F301

 

Sometimes, nothing beats the sound of the mirror slap on my Bronny

 

 

Somehow, one of them always matches my mood, and that's the one I use.

I've just starting playing with RAW. I have noticed that the order in which you

make the same adjustments can have an effect on the final image. Which is the

best order to do things ie. exposure, white balance, colour balance, fill light,

shadow/highlight contrast....but I think pretty much everyone says sharpening last.

 

Thanks everyone.

T2 Photography