darrengold

Now prices have come down considerably get an F5.

Set it to manual, any aperture and 1/2000s shutter speed. Fast continuous wind on. Then just leave your finger on the shutter button.

Sheer music!

If you have a 36 roll in it at the time, all over in 4.5 secs.

Poetry in motion.

You'll get into film in no time.

Regards<div></div>

If you work in a dark theatre get some of those illuminous stickers children use to make planetary patterns on their bedroom walls and ceiling.

Use a star, moon, saturn etc etc for each lens cap. Then you can even see them in the dark.

Regards

It's probably a combination of shutter speed (camera movement), DOF, wide open aperture and possibly lack of in camera sharpening. It's difficult to tell as there is no exif data with your image.

It sharpens up nicely though.

Regards<div></div>

You can batch process in picasa. Select all, then export, choose your jpg size and hit ok. Go have a coffee.

Ragards

Personally I think you should have waited until it was completely dark. There was just enough ambient light to lose that "night time" effect I think you were looking for.

Also a little too much sky.

Keep playing with it but with digital you'll get it real quick

Regards<div></div>

Not to forget that if you want a direct comparison the wiring to the sensor would have to be in FRONT of the sensor just like the blood vessels are in front of the retina.

Not to mention the human eye is good for about 100,000,000+ images per lifetime with a max rate of 20fps. Perfect WB and exposure virtually every time, mono or colour. No storage card problems. Autofocus from 8cm to infinity with hardly any hunting. Excellent dynamic range. Supplied with a dominant version and identical back up and made to order in about 9 months. Variety of colours available.

Just the occasional lens replacement.

It only took mother nature 4 billion years to get the eye as it is today. Nikon or Canon for that matter don't stand a chance.

It shouldn't be a problem unless you are trying to make the show last longer than an hour.

A DVD holds 4.5 Gb so your images would have to be massive for 140 not to fit. Bob's calculation above is a little out. 140 x 2Mb = 280 Mb only.

Occasionally some discs are a little corrupt. Try a new disc first and check the length of your show.

You guys are amateurs. I've just won $2.8 million dollars in a lottery I didn't enter.

Sorry gotta go and catch my plane to Nigeria.

Regards

Stephanie

I assume from what you say the the money you have been given has to be seen to go into a business and not into anything else. Nonetheless that sum of money should be spent on appreciating not depreciating assets. To spend 40K on equipment in one go, that will be obsolete in 5 years is IMHO not the best idea.

Spend most of the money on some premises in a good area of town and take good financial advice on how to maximise its potential by renting it to yourself and possibly even others. That some of money even if invested your business should certainly be made to work harder than you do. Then with what's left buy the equipment.

To quote Jim Strutz (above) with whom I agree entirely, in twenty years you'll be sooooooooo glad you did.

Either way best of luck to both of you.

Every time I plug in a USB device or image card that contains a picture,

Lightroom starts up automatically which is a real nuisance. Can I turn off this

feature and if so how.

Thanks

You could probably print to about 10 x 8 inches. But if large prints and high quality is your main objective you might be better looking at a digital SLR with an APS size sensor or bigger.

The Ricoh point and shoots have sensors about 7mm x 5mm in size whereas the APS sensors are about 23mm x 15mm. That's about a 10x area which is more important in final print quality than straight pixel count.

All things being equal a 10x8 from a 6MP Nikon D50 is likely to be far better quality than the same print from a 10MP Ricoh P&S.

Just my 0.02c

Ni's letter, plus:

"...in an attempt to ensure that unflattering photographs of you and your guests can never be seen or published in the event of a theft from my studio, all of such images are deleted at the time of editing. I am delighted however to inform you that you are in possession of every available image."

A bit OT but in a year's time get the F5 out again and shoot a roll of film. Send it to a good lab for D&P.

Pound to a penny when you get it back you'll realise just how good and easy a roll of film through an F5 really is. After 2 years of digital (which I still use frequently) I am using my F5 and film more and more.

Regards

Gary Fong asked his design team to come with another accessory for a flash.

They thought he said "flush"

....and the hot shoe mounted "toilet" was born.

Custome curves are a great way to shoot if you post process. Most camera mnaufacturer's in camera RAW to JPG conversion is designed to allow printing straight out of the camera without any computer work.

This site distorts the norm as everybody is a photo enthusiast and most will post process. In reality most people take the card out of the camera and go straight to the highstreet printer.

Custom curve lets you choose what the conversion will do to the RAW when producing a jpg. Look at:

http://www.toneupstudio.com/

This is a great value program for $15!! It lets you upload custom curves (to mimic film characteristics) ie provia, reala, etc and if you shoot RAW will upload the RAW file and let you see the image with the custom curve AND other incamera settings applied. If you like what you see save it as a jpg if not you can tweak it or try another curve.

There is a downloadable database of curves with the program. For $15 buy it, and see how it works. You must read the tutorials on incamera curves and post processing curve. Its a bit complicated but worth the time.

I've had a custom curve on my D50 for months which produces a low contrast jpg image with the histogram in the centre of the graph. Compresses and stops blown highlights and raises the shadows. One touch on auto levels in Picasa and I'm done. I can't print them straight out of the camera as they are all washed out and low in contrast. I have to post process them. I get what I want quickly and easily. But that's the whole point of custom curves.

Have fun.

I recently acquired a Metz 45 and SCA adapter for my ETRSi. I thought that

before I tried it out in a formal situation I'd do a test roll around the house

and garden. I used the 135N back with 35mm neg film.

What I got back blew me away. The envelope had a large sticker saying roll

doubly exposed. Each frame consisted of three portions. A central area with the

intended scene which did go to the edge of the frame. A left hand doubly

exposed area with some of the scene from the previous shot and an area of both

scenes not in the central image but clearly a continuation of the intended

scene. The same for the right hand portion of the frame from the next image.

Each frame therefore had 3 image portions which seemd to relate to the image

either side but contained extra subject matter not intended to be included. The

film was also terribly scratched along its length.

It was a fresh roll of film and had never been used before. I only fired the

shutter 36 times, and wound on 36 times. I reached the end of the roll as

expected.

Having racked my brains and examined the camera and film back long and hard, I

eventually worked out what I'd done.

For a bit of fun can you? :)

Regards

Darren

The best 3 are

1. Peak Imaging

2. Peak imaging

3. Peak Imaging

They provide a fantastic service. High quality well balanced prints, negatives properly cut in proper sleeves, packaged in solid cardboard and pretty quick turn around time as well. Customer service is also excellent. I started using them about a year ago and am slowly returning to film from digital for a lot of things. Put the rolls in the post, wait a week and then into the album.

Regards

PS I have absolutely nothing to gain by telling you this. I got the recommendation from this forum and have been delighted, so I'm passing it on. Good luck.