j. salty
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Posts posted by j. salty
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I'm sure it's recommended clipping the 120 film to the SS reel, but it was too much of a hassle trying to do it in a change bag so I started loading the 120 reel much like I do with the 35mm, just ignoring the clip and putting the end of the film in a slot and winding it.
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My SS Nikkor reels don't have clips, just a slot and they work fine..... :)
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The first thought that came to my mind was that, would it be a "regular" lens or soft focus? I like the 240mm - 250mm range because I have "regular" lenses and a soft focus lens in that length.
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There must surely be some pool supply stores in Canada. Look for a product that will raise the pH in pool water, "pH Up" or something like that, it will be sodium carbonate anhydrous. There's also JD Photochem, located in Canada.
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It's actually $45 for a CLA. She's running 4-5 weeks behind because of her work load. I just got back 3 shutters last week that she had for over 5 weeks, but always excellent work.
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In the past, I've also used Pan F+ to make copy negatives and I've used it and reversal processing to make b/w slides.
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Instead of looking for another lens, how about a step down ring?
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Arista E-6 kit from Freestyle.
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You don't always have to use 68 degree water. Ilford (and many others) have a Time/Temperature Compensation Chart.
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Freestyle Photo Supplies has both the 17 oz and 4 oz Rodinal listed in stock.
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I guess my eyes are tired, misread original post. The Massive Development chart lists FP4+ in Rodinal 1:50 at 9 minutes @ 68 degrees. I feel your negatives are a bit overcooked at 12 minutes.
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The 9 minutes for 1:50 sounds right, but how is your temperature control? Are you able to keep the developer temperature at 68 degrees?
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I got into MF about 6 years ago when a friend sold me a Mamiyaflex with 65mm and 80mm lens for very little. I was and still am heavily into LF, but shooting with MF is very casual and the negatives are sharp, and I've made some very large prints from them. I've since added a few more Mamiya TLR cameras and lenses.
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I did some quick research and FP4+ rated at box speed and 1:50 dilution has 3 different listed development times. On the Massive Development Chart it's 15 minutes, on AGFA's PDF file it's 13 minutes and in Anchel's Film Development Cookbook it's 8.5 minutes.
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I've seen that model listed over the years on ebay as "D45M." I have one that's very similiar and a Calumet C2 roll film holder works in mine easily.
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I like the combination of HP5+ and PMK although I haven't used it in about a year. The only problem I can see possibly happen is that the PMK exhausts because of the 12-13 min development time (70 degrees).
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I feel that the price is high for a 150mm lens. I also have problems with any ebay seller who, in my opinion gouges on shipping charges. At least the seller is up front about the shipping charges although I don't feel it's a fair amount.
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I looked up the auction on the Completed Listings and of the 4 or 5 hits on 3200 film, there was only one auction where the seller didn't list the expiration date. The seller was wrong in not doing so but prospective buyers should email and ask. I'd write to the seller with my concerns that the film might have problems. This lets the seller know that you're concerned and it gives you a bit of documentation in case you want to file a complaint with ebay.
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pssst... Frank., don't mention to Sheldon that if he were to get into 8x10 format he could do razor sharp contact prints and might not need an enlarger at all.......
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Congrats, but for some of us collecting LF gear becomes addictive. You're happy with the results with the 135mm lens, but what would the results be with a modern multicoated lens, perhaps a longer focal length...........? Welcome to the club.
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I have a few lenses in the 355mm-360mm focal length (Fuji W, RD Artar, Commercial Ektar) and they're all sharp so I'd imagine any major brand would be the same. Have you thought about film and developer combinations to help you achieve what you want in terms of sharpness?
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You can find it on ebay, but it's very expensive these days.
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You should use it fairly soon after you mix A and B together. As it sits, it oxydizes and starts turning burnt orange to dark brown.
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Darryl, I also have a couple bulk rolls of Velvia 50, a few cases of FP4+ sheet film and about 100 old Tri-X rolls among other things in the huge deep freezer. If I get run over, all the proceeds from my photographic stuff will go to an actual charity.
Are they really just doorstops?
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