j. salty

<p>Since it's 120 film, you were probably using an old Fuji "Take up" spool from the Acros you shot in the past. My guess is that the spool from the roll of Arista.EDU.Ultra is still in the camera.</p>

<p>Film reciprocity? If the exposures were long, did you make adjustments?</p>

<p>Another option would be Badger Graphics and their Shen Hao or Tachihara 4x5 kit with 150mm lens, film holders and cable release for under $1500. All new.</p>

<p>Hard to tell by the picture, but your description sounds like benzotriazole. </p>

<p>It's good to get an early start as you're doing. I didn't start until I was in my late 40's and think of the lost opportunities... if I only had a camera in hand.</p>

<p>Spent $0 on film in 2008. Used film from storage in 26 cu ft deep freeze and 21 cu fit side by side in garage. Shot mainly 8x10 and 4x5 during the year, some 120 and very little 35mm. Will spend a few bucks very soon at Freestyle for bulk rolls of Arista Premium and Legacy Pro films.</p>

Apparently delivery services have had people receive items and then claim they never did. Character is whether I would do something like that. I've been here so long I rarely have to sign for anything and if I'm not around, the driver leaves the package by the door. I used to have the phone number to the local UPS hub to notify them to hold packages if I was going to be out of town, but UPS is now on a 800 number system.

 

My neighbors even open my mail if they receive it. They've opened and kept my phone bills two seperate times and brought them over after the bills were due. I chewed them out about it the last time so now If I don't get a bill when I should, I'll call the company and request another sent out ASAP.

Two times I've ordered used books through Barnes and Nobels vendors and never received the books. I've had to request replacements because I don't know if the books were lost in transit or delivered to a neighbor.

I've had UPS and FedEx Home Delivery deliver my stuff to the house across the street, and the people have kept it. After I filed a complaint, I've found out from the delivery drivers that their supervisors have asked them about My character. (I've lived in the same spot now for 43 years and have a long and unique last name).

 

My Freestyle stuff gets delivered the next day by FedEx Home Delivery and they've been good with that. I worry that if my photo supplies get delivered across the street, the people will open it all before sending it back.

I had a reel loader, a throw-in on a deal. Mine was straight with the pad that aligns the film and on the end of the apparatus were the two discs that fit in the center of the reel. I tossed it out. Seems too complicated to align the film in the apparatus, then the apparatus around the reel, then spool it, all in the dark. Maybe if I had some night vision goggles.....

 

Although I prefer stainless on 35mm, I do have plastic reels that I've run at least 100 rolls of 35mm through and they still work fine. On the plus note, I prefer plastic reels over stainless when doing 220 film because the plastic hold the thin-based 220 film better than my Hewes and Kinderman 220 stainless reels.

Seems odd you don't have trouble with a 120 reel and the 35mm reel is giving you fits.

 

FWIW, I can only imagine having problems loading a 35mm reel if the reel orientation was backwards to start with. I use Nikkor reels without clips. It's just put the end of the leader in the slot, and spool it on.

If I were trying to emulate the results you're looking for, I'd first try one of these disposable cameras with the plastic lens. The investment for the camera and film processing is minimal.

Large Format film. If you don't have experience with large format cameras, then it's digital

I have medium format negatives (6x6) of my Dad, done in 1963 by a Naval photographer. It's Kodak film, probably souped in D76. I have printed (wet darkroom) them at 20x24 and they are extremely sharp. I shoot LF now, but I wouldn't be afraid to enlarge (6x6, 6x7 or larger) negative as long as it was properly exposed and processed. I have a 645 camera but have never tried large prints from those negatives.

San Diego probably had the best climate I ever lived in, being a former Navy brat.

 

 

I use glass bottles to store chemicals and I have some D76 stock which is over 18 months old and still good.

I believe his name is Luis Mendes

I do have a 11x14 drum but I don't use it for film developing. If I did, I would do 4 - 5x7 sheets. Have you thought about a Beseler or Unicolor 8x10 drum with motor base? I also use my 8x10 Beseler drum for stand developing of 8x10 negatives. I use it vertical and it holds 1500ml of dilute developer.

I didn't realize I had my fore finger pointed at anyone when typing the last post.....

 

The statement about my 8x10 Beseler drum is just another option.

 

"I can do (2) 5x7 sheets or (4) 4x5 sheets or one 8x10 in the Beseler drum" simply means that if I wanted to do 4 sheets of 5x7, I could do it in 2 different loads at 400ml of developer each load, instead of a possible 2 liters for 4 - 5x7 sheets in a 11x14 drum.

I can do (2) 5x7 sheets or (4) 4x5 sheets or one 8x10 in the Beseler drum.

 

Developer is inexpensive when you consider the cost of the film and the time you put into it when you made your exposure. You don't want to be "Penny wise and Pound foolish" by skimping on the amount of developer and ruining the film.

Very few for me also. I take the shots, develop the film, scan it, critique it and decide whether to make a print of it or send it to the shredder.

If it were me, I'll take the drum and fill it with water, then lay it horizontal and let the excess water run out. Measure the amount of water that remains in the drum and you'll have an idea of the volume of developer you can use. My Beseler 8x10 drum will hold just a bit over 400ml of developer.

Photographer's Formulary

 

Artcraft.com

I wonder if the film is Safety film or Nitrate based film. If it's nitrate based film, soaking it might not be a good thing to do.

I've never tried Rolli Ortho film, but I have played with a few other brand orthrochromatic sheet films and the ones I've tried are contrasty enough without trying to increase it.

To me it seems that you're intent on buying one of these ebay "deals." Don't be one of these people who get good advice, but still have to learn the hard way. Spend a few extra dollars and do it right the first time and then you won't have to go through this all over again in a year when the discount lighting dies.

I'd say also that you were massively underexposed. The film is rated at ISO 25, but the filter factor of the green is at least 2 stops, so I would metered at around ISO 6.