glyn r
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Posts posted by glyn r
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I have often thought that the live view on the E-330 is a good idea. Probably more than the E410/510. It will replace an angle finder which I use a lot. This alone will cost another ?150, so the price premium is not as bad as it looks. I use my wifes Fuji Z3 with no proper viewfinder its unusable in bright sun.
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I use tripod ISO 100 and if exposure is above 1sec turn on noise reduction. I use ESP and WB auto. correct all this in Lightroom.
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Lets not get into this discussion again. Canon/Nikon v Oly. They are all good cameras. All can make exceedingly good photos. The good big un argument didn't win against 35mm so it will go nowhere. Leica have 4/3 and APSH in their cameras.
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I use an FL-36. Great littel flash with a surprising amount of coverage. I used to have a Vivitar 283 but the trigger voltage was way higher than Olympus reccomended.
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I love the ease of use of the E-300. I have not owned an E-500 but the direct access to all important functions without using the menu is great. From memory this is more limited on E-500
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I have a VA-1 bought one second hand on ebay. I have heard good reports about the chinese copies.In the image it looks exactly like the VA-1. Search Oolympus VA-1 on ebay.
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Elements 5 has most of the regularily used functions. It does not have the HDR tools but you can do very good job using Layers and Layer masks.I have found lightroom very good even though it is only in Beta Some of the functions are a bit obscure but OK once you get used to it.<div>
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Don't think I would bother to shoot in RAW unless frame is huge. I would shoot direct in jpeg.
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Just remember to hold the button down until all 3 have been taken, on E-300 it will stop if you release the button.
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The converter for this lens is EC-14. the 40-150 kit lens is a very good example of its type much better than other kit lenses.
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On the menu select Drive, The modes are displayed. Single, Continouous, Bracket, Self time, Remote. Self timer has clock icon. 2 sec and 12 sec. Scroll right down this menu to get the Anti shock which is the mirror lock up delay. You can vary this yourself.
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I think its too late to give an 8 year old a film camera. Lots of very good and abuse proof digitals about. I agree with 21st century comment. I started with seriously with film about 1960 so I have been there and done that. There is a danger of the child becoming bored and of course nver forget peer pressure.
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I agree what about your pictures. Any serious blemish would show.
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What do Olympus say? I found olympus europe helpful and quick.
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I use an FL-36 as a compromise. I don't need the power of the FL-50. It works great. The TTL auto is fine. The flash becomes part of the camera. Just bought an Olympus extension lead for off camera use. this also is good keeping the TTL working fine.
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I had a similar problem with my E-300. I updated the software and the problem went away. I think from Olympus forums this was an issue.
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If all this discussion about noise etc. is so important why are we not all using Hasselblad with a scanner. The results are amazing secondhand prices are reasonable!
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I have just put this on another thread. I emailed Olympus Europe who told me that 200 volts is their reccomended maximum. above 250 volts is not safe. My Vivitar 283 worked fine but the trigger voltage was 270 volts DC with a Digital Multimeter.
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I have recently emailed Olympus about my E-300 with a Vivitar 283. They told me up to 250 volts is acceptable but they reccommend 200 volts as a safe maximum. So an old flash will not fry it but its not safe over 250. My 283 was 270 volts. Measure with a Digital Multimeter cheap from eBay or electrical supplier.
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