claudio farkasch

Well some migth think it's a bit early for this question but I'm in

desperate need of the opinion by this forum.

so my question is which camera body would you choose and why

the money is not the concern for me(not that i have it but what I want

I get - just try harder and harder)

I do al kind of stuff livemusic, fashion, arts, normal

touristshooting, sports and so on. simply anything you can do with the

camera I do it

I'm also very familiar with the specs of both cameras but had not the

time the get them in my hands.

and because in austria the shops/nikon is a late with the first

models(end of january) I thougth the forum could give me some hints I

might not recognize from the specs and holding the camera because for

a real head to head test there will be no bodys available in the near

future(especially D200)

I hope you can help me with this

thanx

hi

I expose a roll of APX400 at 800 and did a search on the net for the

right development time but couldn't find some usefull data on this.

so my Q is any one of you knows the correct time for ID11 or perceptol

or microphen for this film.

any by the way is there a rule of thumb to know the aproximate time if

the film datasheets and masdevchart doesn't provide the time for

push/pulling with your dev-Iso combination like the tempscale

thanx

I don't know what saran wrap is but clingfilm is a foil to keep things fresh and it sticks together

but if it's that then why don't put it in the fridge?

thanx for the answers really appreciate it!

No I thougtht of packing the rolls in clingfilm so that they are extra airtight to avoid any humidity and bacteria to get in as I have not enough canisters

hey there

I got 100ft ektachrome-bulkfilm for christmas and wanted to loead it

today and then store it in the freezer in a air sealed bag. but as i

wanted to load the film i wonder which side of the film is the correct

one to expose. there is a black one/upsided) and and a

darkyellow(downsided)- the film comes out of a filmloader

maybe one of you can give me a hint on this

thanx

i know of that stain -> i just leave it after washing in a mix of water and washingliquid that the water rinses of properly.

i don't know if a wetting agent works this well for clearing the purplestain but the liquid does is(just leave the reel or the film in for some minutes- i usely then clean all the stuff and prepare for the next film/s

i think this is good way cause you save the wettingagent and you get it everywhere never got any waterdrops on my films

and i use a lot of acros for MF- real nice film mabe better then Ilford

ok i don't start a Ilford vs Fuji discussion

yes you can use it

i bought a 220 back and use only 120film- just remember when the film is finished you can still advance the film-> this gave me once a hard time as the filmkind of screwed up in there but if you remeber to count or just stop at 15 or 16 and then shoot 2-3 pics it will be ok

but realy getr yourself a 120back extra it's worth to have ar maybe 2 of those

just think of doing b+w and color and diffrent isos at the "same" time

the etrs is a great camera you'll live it

and this depends on your style of shooting but a speedgrip and the AE finder(AE-II works very fine also with ETRS and os not so expensive)

could be alao interesting for handhold

Hmmm

dream nikon? for me a combination between a F4s and a D2x-> fullframe digitalCCD/CMOS-preferable, analog knobs like F4 plus the normal digitalstyle as well - i know this will never happen.

really i like those oldfashion wotkingstyle.

so i got a nikon FT3 and F4s and F401s and a fuji S2(ok it's no real nikon but looks and feels like one). I love my F4s thats a camera mostly I use i for AF related stuff and the FT3 I use only for B+W.

It's a good feeling to do everything manual keeps you awake in sense of photography.

If I ever got so much spare money I would buy me F2 maybe the photomic, and one of those gold anniversaryeditons

and there is this fisheyecamera from 1960 but it's hard to find

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/htmls/models/htmls/slrmain5979.htm

It just feels good that I can trust my nikons I would never give thme away except for the 401s. as back up the FT3 works perfect.

I got more problems with my S2 and the D70 I used then wih my analogstuff

I think I'm acquiring NAS anyway

Hi

i tried an old agfa ortho 25 kust for fun but it was not in it's box

so i don't know the developing time

I did a search on photo.net and the massive dev chart at digitaltruth

but found no data for this film

does anyone know hoe to develope this film. any suggestion on

developer mostly I use ID-11, but since it's hard to get at the

moment(live in Austria) I could use D76 or Ilfosol-s or similar

thanx for your help in advance

and I found a D-76 and it shows the year '87. Is worth a try and is there a save way to know if it works

also, is there another way then developing to know if a film is exposed

thanx

hi

My mother gave me some old Ilford PanF(noplus) and FP4 and HP5 and

Tr-X400 from Kodak to develope and I could not find any

developingtimes or is it the same as the plus I use either D-76 or

Ilfosol-s or ID-11 as developer.

maybe some of you has experience or can remember the old times

thanx

Hello,

i got an etr and bought a russian 30mm fisheyefor a very cheap price and

heard that there is somewhere in the world a manufacturer for such

kinds of adapters I need.

can anybody help me with this or direct my to a dealer that sells such

stuff.

the only thing is that I'm in Austria so if it's in the US they should

have mailorder.

thanks in advance

Hi got a AE-II prism toda and just want a manual as pdf for savety.

Already search on photo.net but couldn't find it in a thread

any please help.

regards

claudio

Hi

1.I aquired a ETR and have a nikon 35mm system. Can I use a nikon

flash with the bronica and how(not connecting - the angleproblem)?

2.Is there any manufacturer that produces/producsed a fisheye or other

widanglelenses?

3.What time can you handheld a Bronica with 75mm lens and 120 back and

normalfinder/AEprism

4.Is there any metering like the hassi has - you know this meter you

can put on the rightside - is a AEprism worth to buy ( I'm doing a lot

of sport, concertstuff)

5.are there any lensadapters like M42

6. is a speed/motorgrip worth to buy

for all above questions I just want to say that I know how I wanna

work but I just want to collect some user stories and opinions.

Because I live in Austria and not so many people I know got a MF and

then it's mostly no Bronica

I'm very happy with my camera works fine good condition no problem

and it was a bargain. I use a lightmeter from gossen-sixtomat(oldone)

and the nikons I've for metering.

thanks in advance for the answers. really I'm interested in the opinions.

Hi

I got a little question for you guys. I'm interested what happens if

you put a film in the fridge put it out for use but didn't-> can you

put it back in the frige? what does happen the same way to freezed

films either 120 or 35mm.

Of course is the film not opened and still sealed.

do you have noticed any changes to the material.

and is there a diffrence between colornegs/slides and B+W

hi

yesterday i got my first mf an etr with standard equipment and i got a

little problem is it normal when you cock the shutter and take a pic

that afterwards the mirror is upward and the shutter is closed - >

cock the shutter again

sorry seems for my self a very stupid question but i just can't find

somthing informative in the manual about this and you might help me

actually logical it seems to be right for me but if not tell me rhen i

can bring it back to where i got it from

thanks in advance

I agree with the bad pricing of your F4 but as others already said search on the market in ebay and you'll get a slightly used f4s for 400?(around 330U$)

I got one with a MF23 in perfect condition 2 years ago for 500?(420u$)

in germany.

just don't care about where it comes from if it's from the EU you don't pay taxes so just the shipping not even the moneytransfer cost a lot due to the new banklaw in EU

so just try it and search on ebay you'll get some good stuff

e.g.:

http://cgi.ebay.at/Nikon-F4S-Body_W0QQitemZ7554841471QQcategoryZ4701QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

this one is rather expensive but ok

or this one - it's in Switzerland but for a good price

http://cgi.ebay.at/Nikon-F4-mit-MB-23_W0QQitemZ7556524918QQcategoryZ26063QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

or this

http://cgi.ebay.at/Nikon-F4S-MB21-BODY-F4-F-4-F-4-S-TOP_W0QQitemZ7547004442QQcategoryZ26063QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

hope you can read the text

so I bought my first MFcamera a Bronica ETR

maybe it's to late for this question. I was forced to buy it because

of the price so I thought get it and try out and if it's not working

resale it.

What is the true diffrence between these models of bronica except the

manufacturing date and and is the accessory interchangable?

thanks for the great information you provide to us.

it'S real great

hi

I'm getting myself a mamiya 645 super as a starting MFcamera but

before I do so a wanted to know some facts about it you can't get from

a manual. Especially that the flash is only syncable to 1/60sec is

this true or can you sync it faster.

I choose this camera because of an offer I have for a set with

AE-Finder an lens and 120 filmback for 330U$ - I think it's cheap very

cheap

so what do you think let me know

thanks for all the answeres you gave me.

the buget is quite clear to me for a startinggear I'm able more willing to spend about 400U$

Advanteges and disadvantages are for every camera but what I need is a start

I didn't start with my nikon f4s I started with a fullyautomatic Minolta Dynax 300si.

I'm also considering to buy me a PentaconsixTL because of the price. Yesterday a pentacon was sold for 80U$ with lens ready to start.

so what do you think

yep manual exposure but only if needed the exposure is good but the colours are as I discribed but when autoexposure is set on the colours get better but the grain gets worse.

so what is it you think