claudio farkasch

<p>if you want to to colour(e6/c41) than my suggestion is as follows<br>

cpp2 - don't a lot of hassle and not worth the money<br>

atl2+ or atl3 or 2xxx and 3xxx series - huge beast that does it all, expertdrums and normal 25xx series, fully automated, except the cooling of water, programable machine(times of every step of the process)<br>

atl 1000/1500 - more or less the same except the 1500 is programmable as the biger atls doesn't take the expertdrums </p>

<p>all the ATLs can heat their water for temperature control of the water bath and the chemistrybottles. for all ATLs you need a tempered wateroutlet or a tempered watercontainer with a pump and a heater plus a sensor that monitors the temperature. the pump should have an outlet to attache to the ATLs.</p>

<p>it depends largely where you live and how much you would shoot with your 4x5" gear. of course the repairs can be a pain in the a** but you can stil get some spareparts. but egineering a woud be awesome and maybe some folks woud buy it but oy if it wouldn't cost more than 2000$ and would have to use te jobo drumsystem as it is commonly available on the internet.<br>

so here is my suggestion:<br>

if you process some or a bit more 4x5" you caan savely go for the atl1000 if you don't bother using the preprogrammed settings. if you need different selfprogrammable settings go for a 1500<br>

if you do a lot of 4x5" say 30 sheets than a bigger AT as a 2+ or 3 or a 2xxx or 3xxx series wold be best. as they have all and can do all except water cooling as this will be done by itself.<br>

I for one had very good experience with the 25xx series drums and the 4x5" work I did.<br>

it's your choice.</p>

<p>plus the motor is not rolling it is shivering</p>

<p>any thoughts would be welcome<br>

and I should ad that I live in Austria so any repairtechs in the us wouldn't help much<br>

thx</p>

<p>Hi folks,<br /> i have a jobo atl1000 and got a atl2+ from a friend. i was seting it up after i cleaned it. worked fine until the voltagefilter burnt down. I replaced it wih the sameone. After I plug everything together (water,power) and swiched it on the attached video was what happend<br /> I could not even get into any other mode or even press the buttons.<br /> since I don't know what I could possibly doing wrong I hope some one has a hint or knows a solution for my problem<br>

thanks<br /> claudio</p>

<p>if I had to choose between a 50/1,2 and a 50/1,4 there is no doubt I'd choose the 1,2. bokeh is something that is very subjective and it should be that way.<br>

I bought a used 55/1,2 nikkor a couple years ago and after I had it LCAed it was perfect. Sharpness is perfect in the center and compared to some other lenses also very good in the corners for a lens that was designed in the late 70ies<br>

But if you need the cpu to communicate with your camera then go for the zeiss zf.2 as they have the cpu for communication. but as you use a D3 it is very convenient to use any manual nikkor. If you use more you could easily program the fn button for switching between the different lenses.</p>

<p>The best would be to try them if possible as the price is nearly the same. A used nikkor in less then perfect condition is a bit cheaper though.</p>

<p>Any Nikkor with a aperture of 1,2 or 1,4 is a dream on the D3. Focusing can get difficult sometimes but you get used to it as you will use a lot.There is no necessity for a katzeye on a D3 plus it wouldn't help if you'd focus something in the left or right side of the picture where you wouldn't have a splitimage and even if you move the splitimage and then move away the focused point would be somewhere else if the aperture is wide open as the DOF is very shallow which was allready explained. just learn how to focus with a lens like this and you will have a good time with it.</p>

<p>hi</p>

<p>the listing is in german an is without any info on the reel it does fit the 2500 series but is a bit smaler in diameter<br>

but what makes me curious is that the sprockets that hold the film are not even around the circle<br>

any guesse 126, disc or something even more exotic?</p>

<p>http://cgi.ebay.at/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380252534339&ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT</p>

 

<p>op i try again with the picture somehow it didn't work</p>

<p>hi folks</p>

<p>i found this interesting jobo thing on ebay, I wonder what this is/was for</p>

<p><img src=" alt="" /></p>

<p>hi<br>

i have a ls5000 plus the sa-30 rollfimadapter<br>

mostly it works fine but somtimes it rejects some sort of film.<br>

by that i mean that it will take the film in but then the programs crashes or if I try to scan it the film won't come out<br>

it rejects some ortho film plus some films with a strong grey base(lot of silver)<br>

though if i use my FH-3 stripfilmholder it works fine<br>

anyone have some similar problems.<br>

thx</p>

<p>hi folks</p>

<p>does anybody know if you can reset a nikon mh-22 charger<br>

mine is stuck in calibrationmode and won't charge nor calibrate<br>

lucky me i got a mh-21 but it would be good to have the mh-22<br>

back as it has the dualchargingmethod</p>

<p>thx<br>

claudio</p>

<p>Hi all</p>

<p>i got overd a used atl3 which has been refurbished 4 years ago and has not been used for 2. it is the one with the tanks underneath it.<br>

my question is if i can use that machine without these tanks?meaning that i fill in the chem by myself.<br>

I want to do that cause at the moment i use a atl1000 and will have more film to put trough so i thought a atl 2+ or 3 might be better also because i can ajust the times better to my purpose.</p>

<p>i will use the canisters in the future when my throughput is higher.</p>

<p>thanks for your answers in advance</p>

<p>you can also use the tetenal c41/e6 stabilizer for 1000l it is a seperate available 1l bottle which is diluted 1+100 and it has formaldehyde in it so you can stabilize both older and newer films</p>

<p>hi anthony,</p>

<p>my brother is currently in new york till november and if you have not given it to erik or somebody else i would love to have the brick.<br>

this is one of my favorite films ever. I use it when ever I can though my stock is very low allready.<br>

you can contact my via my email c.farkasch@belichten.com<br>

I could send you the money right away with paypal.</p>

<p>let me know</p>

<p>thanks<br>

claudio</p>

<p>thanks so far for your answers<br>

I have allready pushed this film with good results to 3200 in microphen with 14,5 in stock with an automated roller.<br>

so how much time would yu ad to it to push to 6400. I thought maybe 24,5 as the difference from pushing in stock from 1600 to 3200 is twice the time<br>

so use twice the time or what?<br>

normally I use +30% time increase but I think with harder pushes you have to increase in a higher rate</p>

<p>what do suggest</p>

<p>hi,<br>

so as you can read in the topic i am trying to find a time for this combo with either an ilford microphen or tmax developer.<br>

if any of you got an idea or has tried it let me know.<br>

i allready looked up some times at the devchart but nothing very helpfull.</p>

<p>thanks in advance for your insighting responses</p>

<p> </p>

<p>you can also try nordfoto.de in germany they also have good prices on film and other stuff.</p>

<p>Hi,<br /> i have been doing e6 and c41 and b+w home processing for a while now. I use the kodak e6 5l kit. I always thought it was hard to mix that stuff for smaller amounts, say 250ml. So I had the idea of using some medical needles to do very precise measuring.<br /> Did any of you tried this and do you think that the steel needles migth interact with some chemicals, and would you clean them. or is it enough to take up some water and push it out again and do this several times?</p>

<p>maybe soem of you have some answers for me.<br>

by the way i use a jobo atl-1000 and do mostly 120 slideflms</p>

<p>thanks<br /> claudio</p>

<p>all you guys got some good points on economy, usability, and so on, but as many people have pointed out in this and other forums there will be film around maybe - I think definatly - longer than any of our lives.<br>

There are people out there that coat there own stuff be it paper, film or glassplates and since the chems for developers can not, or atleast not as easy disapear you can safly say that processing might get harder but never impossible.<br>

I for myself have switched from lab processing my colourfilm to homeprocessing in a jobo ATL1000 - and most of the spareparts are easy to find some places else if it is not jobo, because the parts are made out of something and there is a manual out there and someguy has that manual and then you share cause we love film and can't think of something else to shoot.<br>

All of this is about commitment and love to something - as long as we shoot film and buy it there will be someone that will produce it even if it is a small quantitiy.But since rollei is making the rsx200 again I for myself am very happy.<br>

In the end noone knows what will happennext so let us all enjoy film, the cameras we use and the pictures we look at, cause we can not take it with us into our graves.</p>

 

<p>Hi</p>

<p>I have good experience with www.nordfoto.de as they have good prices on Fujifilms. My B+W stock is manly from Fotoimpx.de in berlin.<br>

but mx2 in the uk is also good especially for kodachrome - have never seen a better price for it incl. develpoeing</p>

hey carl,

 

me and my brother do our own E6 and C41 processing. We bought a used Jobo Autolab an ATL-1000 wich was only 350$. granted this is cheap and they normally run a bit higher in price but it was worth every penny. I used the 3step tetenal kit but moved to the 6step kodak kit now and it gives the same results as I get from my local prolab. I can say that I do a roll a week or maybe 1 every 2 weeks and never had troubles with the chems. I always mix it fresh from the solution. this can be a liitle bit painfull as you have to mix up small portions of each concentrate sometimes put this way I knowq that the chems are fresh and do work proper.

 

since we have 2 sinars and a couple of 35mm and MF cameras it was a easy decision, One sheet of film would have cost us 5$ and I can process 5 sheets for around 2$ with the machine.

 

i fyou can not get a hold of a ATL 1000/1500 get a cp2 with lift from jobo. it controlls the temp and does everything on its own.

 

we work as professionals so we do need films very quick sometimes also over bnight where ther is no lab open.

 

so if you have the need for it and want total or more control of what you do with the film- if something happens you can only blame yourself- then DYI is the way and having teh experience with B+W you can surley handle the stuff.

 

I would definatly sugest to get a Jobo autolab as it simplyfies your work but you can do it in the sink or with a heater made for chems.

Jospeh, yeah you got some points here. Sure the new ttl system and the cls is great. but still I don't need it because I learned Flashphotography with my NIkkormat so I am quite used to manual mode. As now do not need I-TTL at all and just want to use my older, for my perfect working flashes, in some darkscenes, I would really liek to just read the flash that I need an AF-assist.

 

as nikon did not wanted us to use our older flashes in this manner, I do think this is a shame for nikon but nikon has done more bad things to their custumers in the last years and their new camers are great and I surely do not want to trade my D3 for anything except for some expensive Mediumformatdigitalcamera.

but this is a piece of equipment I'd rather rent when needed.

francisco, yes I have a reason. the main reason is to not spend money on something I don't need. but now I might need it. I have been useing my speedlights always in manual mode. even back with my F4s and also with my D2series and as I am totally comfortabgle with the results and like the working flow. plus I never really got the same results with any ttl mode there is. I did not ever bother me at all, only the af assitent is what I do need.

 

so I ordered a new Metz AF 58-N because of it feature of a second straight flash when you bounce of the seeling or a bounce. this comes in handy in many occasions. sure it is a feature I could miss but since I have used it with my AF54 MZ3 I don't want to change things a lot and work as always with just as less change as possible.

 

but I really don't understand why nikon did this to there costumers. They did it on purpose to sell more of these new fancy SB-900 and back then SB-800. It is a feature the D2series had so why not the new D3 series. plus some other stuff they have messed up with this camera but this si another story many people have allready complained about. so I let it rest and wait for the new flash to arrive to comfort me for some years to come. atleast I hope so.

I don't need the TTL wether it is D-TTL or I-TTL. I could afford a sb800 but I actually does not need it cause I set things manually normally. but what I need and worked on my D2 series is the IR-focushelp. that is very helpfull in some situations like events, liveperfomances or concerts and a flash is also needed plus I don't trust I/D-ttl at all. because when I had a SB800 I was so unhappy with it that I resurrected my metzs and older nikons.

 

I might just go to my reseller and check another body to try it out.

 

and many thanks for your answers

Hi

 

I recently obtain my D3 and love it by the way but I keep getting problems useing my older flashguns.

I do set everything manually but like it that withn my D2 series the iso and f-number which I selected on the

camera were read by the flash. but with the D3 this does not work at all sometimes it even says theres no flash

at all.

so is this normal or not and I could not find anything on this. plus with my metzflashes (54mz3 and 70mz5) it

does not work at all.

 

any one who can shad some light on this

 

thanks

Hi,

 

I bought a use atl1000 for a very good price and with it came 2 boxes of tetenal

3 bath kit unused - I allready have processed my slide. they turned out very

good so far.

but I started wondering about the stablizer - can I reuse it and can I

rollprocess it, if you can call tha processing, or do I have to fill up the hole

tank and let it sit for a while.

I did some search on the net but could not find a anwser to the rolling part but

as I read it is possible to reuse the stabilzer but to what extend and when do I

have to mix up a fresh one

 

maxbe one of you can give me some answers

 

so far I have great success with the developing but the 4 or 7th bath troubles

me a bit

 

plus as I live in europe and the kodak 6bath kit is not commonly available in

big photostores

the question is if the 3 bath kit is as good as a traditional 6 bath

 

I did a search on this too but as I can see there are a load of opinons on that

 

thanks a lot for the time and the answers

 

claudio

thank you all of you who took the time to reply my question.

by reading them, searching on the net and some disassembling

I recognized that the shutter must be stuck, because when I push the selftimer it directly starts although I did not press the release button

 

@juanjo

thanks I just love how they feel in my hand

athough I got a F4 and a D2h the nikkormats are the cameras I love most

despite the fact that the meter in lowlight is very awkward and times over 1 sec are always fun if you don't have a timer with you