aslan_ivo

Stock pictures are generic photographs that were previously taken and already available for use. Advertisers who want that certain image can search through the photo collections of stock photo agencies to locate images they want to use, rather than hire a photographer to custom-shoot the photos they want on a case by case basis. Many photographers supplement their income by having such generic photos ready for use in their portfolio. The generic "happy people on the beach" is a common theme for stock photographs, as is "person talking on cell phone" or "pen next to checkbook" or "multicolored pills spilled from a medicine bottle" etc.

Incidentally, I was once photographed by a photographer while I was laying at the beach. The guy took the photo, then came up to me and said that he was a freelance photographer and he may use the image and he'd be happy to include my name in the caption if I wanted. I told him my name, and he jotted it down. By doing so, in effect, I had given him permission to use the image. It wasn't a written release, but the fact that he had my name was now proof that I had verbally given him permission -- proof enough to discourage anyone from trying to make a quick buck by filing a lawsuit.

Generally in the US, commercial appropriation of someone's name or likeness requires a release. Advertising is a the typical example of such a case. This doesn't apply if the persons are not identifiable in the picture, for example because their face is covered with sunglasses, or if the use was non-commercial (if they were included in a photograph of a news-worthy event, for example.)

Who owns the copyright to the famous image of the Abu Ghraib

prisoner ("Gilligan") undergoing torture? I think it will go down in

history as one of the most influential photographs of this century,

perhaps comparable to the raising of the flag at Iwo Jima, but I am

not sure who actually owns the image!

Actually, their idea that the camera can steal your soul is really no more weird then our idea that photographs can deprive the subject's intellectual property rights in her image. Heck, nowdays even building can't be photographed because they've been protected by trademarked.

Any special considerations when using the grey card to set exposure

with a camera whose autoexposure function is center-metering only?

In 1995, the US Circuit Court of Appeals for the 2nd Circuit ruled in the case of Bery v. NYC that the city had to give the same permit exemption to sellers of visual artworks as it gave to sellers of written material. Thus, there is no vending license required in NYC for photo sales. You can find this case online. However, there are still other regulations involved such as where you can set up your table. Also, the line between what constitutes "art" and what is merely a "commercial goods" is not terribly clear.

I have been sent a Sony MCS1 PhotoVault Mini CD-R burner

as a present however even before I receive it in the mail I think

there may be a problem: the Sony site says that its not compatible

with Canon Digital Rebel 300 or with USB 2. I guess there is some

sort of a card-reader attachment which I will have to buy

separately? Does anyone here have any experience using the Sony

Photovault on a Canon 350xt

 

http://www.sony.net/Products/Media/Photovault/

Here in NYC, the city can technically require photographers to

obtain a photo permit before shooting any pictures if they are using

a tripod or anything else which can impede pedestrian traffic. Are

there similar laws in London or Paris or Rome? I am considering

taking my Super Speed for a trip or two . . .

Thanks. When metering, how should I do it (no spot meter) to account for the white background? All the expanse of the white scares me a bit that it may throw off the exposure of the subject. And on the other hand, I want to try to keep the white as white as possible.

I will be doing so portraits outdoors, with the subject standing in

front of a white sheet outdoors in a sunny environment, much like

Avedon's In the American West (not that I'm comparing myself with

Avedon!) I will be using a medium format camera, B&W100 film. Any

suggestions, tips for lighting & metering? I want to make sure that

the white comes out white and not grey . . .

The light-proof plastic bags which come with paper are also useful. i keep them around for exactly this purpose.

Problem is with the medium format and sheet film, which according to the TSA has to be hand-inspected. Will the TSA inspectors be cooperative or will they be annoyed if you ask them to do so? THat's the question/

Just FYI, in case anyone needs this later:

 

http://www.tsa.gov/public/interapp/editorial/editorial_1035.xml

Transporting Special Items

 

Transporting Film

 

WARNING: Equipment used for screening checked baggage will damage

your undeveloped film.

 

Traveling with Film

 

Never place undeveloped film in your checked baggage.

Place film in your carry-on baggage* or request a hand inspection.

 

* Carry-on screening equipment might also damage certain film if the

film passes through more than 5 times.

 

None of the screening equipment - neither the machines used for

checked baggage nor those used for carry-on baggage - will affect

digital camera images or film that has already been processed,

slides, videos, photo compact discs, or picture discs.

 

General use film **

 

You should remove all film from your checked baggage and place it in

your carry-on baggage. The X-ray machine that screens your carry-on

baggage at the passenger security checkpoint will not affect

undeveloped film under ASA/ISO 800.

 

If the same roll of film is exposed to X-ray inspections more than 5

times before it is developed, however, damage may occur. Protect

your film by requesting a hand-inspection for your film if it has

already passed through the carry-on baggage screening equipment (X-

ray) more than 5 times.

 

Specialty film **

 

Specialty film is defined as film with an ASA/ISO 800 or higher and

typically used by professionals.

 

At the passenger security checkpoint, you should remove the

following types of film from your carry-on baggage and ask for a

hand inspection:

 

Film with an ASA/ISO 800 or higher

Highly sensitive X-ray or scientific films

Film of any speed which is subjected to X-ray surveillance more than

5 times (the effect of X-ray screening is cumulative)

Film that is or will be underexposed

Film that you intend to 'push process'

Sheet film

Large format film

Medical film

Scientific film

Motion picture film

Professional grade film

 

Other Tips and Precautions:

 

If you plan to request a hand inspection of your film, you should

consider carrying your film in clear canisters, or taking the film

out of solid colored canisters and putting it into clear plastic

bags, to expedite the screening process.

If you are going to be traveling through multiple X-ray examinations

with the same rolls of undeveloped film, you may want to request a

hand-inspection of your film. However, non-U.S. airports may not

honor this request.

If you plan to hand-carry undeveloped film on an airplane at an

international airport, contact the airport security office at that

airport to request a manual inspection.

Consider having your exposed film processed locally before passing

through airport security on your return trip.

We recommend that you do not place your film in lead-lined bags

since the lead bag will have to be hand-inspected. If you have

concerns about the impact of the X-ray machine on your undeveloped

film, you can request a hand inspection.

You may still consider bringing a lead-lined bag if you are

traveling through airports in other countries as their policies may

vary. Check with your airline or travel agent for more information

on foreign airports.

Film + a light-tight box + a hole = a camera.

 

From there on, its all extras.

 

Anyway compared to a (more expensive) Holga or Diana, it doesn't seem so bad.

Hi there -- I am considering purchasing a flash but since I used

both a Canon Digital Rebel as well as an RB67 Pro-sd, is there a

recommended flash that can work well with both? I carry both into

the field and don't want to carry two flashes if I don't have to...

Just curious what experiences any hobbyists have had submitting

their work to stock agencies online. I am wondering if I can make

back any of the $ spent for my digital camera. What sort of demands

are made as to the quality of images submitted, what sort of money

have you made, what content is in demand? I assume something

corporate . . . Any anecdotes welcome.

<i>Sounds like somebody got bit by Mommy's divorce atty</i>

 

No, I just recognize my fellow learned colleague...

Looks like a lawyer to me . . .

Hey if you happen to have an old fifties Nikon that you don't want to "drag around" please let feel free to give it to me!

Depends on the type of enlarger you'll be using -- 4x5? 8x10? The standard in schools seems to be the Beseller 23 or 67. With the 50mm lens, I've seen the average price of $150 to $200. The electronic timers for each enlarger can be the slightly less, though the old-fashioned non-electronic ones are substantially less expensive. Low-quality easels go for $40. Misc. are trays, filters, focusing aids, tongs, beakers for measuring & mixing chemicals. Maintenance of the enlarger mainly consists of a good dusting on a regular basis.

Throw away the manual. The only setting you should work with if you want to really learn photography is "M" for "manual"

Use the wheel button to change the exposure time and aperture.

Considering that the mirror which flips up in an SLR has no effect on the picture, is getting a perfectly clean mirror really worth it?

In NYC both Pratt and the School of Visual Arts are good, and Int'l Center for Photography is also quite well known. "Expensive" is a relative term -- but you can find the costs on their websites. If you take the courses for credit, they'll be much more expensive than if you attend the non-credit courses which are offered regularly and quite popular

I just obtained a Mamiya RB67 metered chimney finder -- and it

doesn't look like the standard CdS version shown in the Mamiya

manual available on the Mamiay site. First, there is no set level.

Second, the battery is an alkaline 6v 4LR44 and not a the flat-disc

types. Finally, it doesn't use needle indicators and has + and _

lights instead.

 

I assume this is a newer version? I haven't seen it on sale

elsewhere. Does anyone have a manual or link to it?