nealcurrie

<p>Kodak T-Max 100 and D-76 1:1. TMX has never let me down, and I do a lot of dusk shooting where the reciprocity is helpful.</p>

<p>You will be happy with your purchase if you decide to get it.</p>

<p>Did you pay by Paypal? If so, the vendor doesn't have any choice but to take it back. File a SNAD dispute (significantly not as described) within 45 days of the auction ending. Escalate to a claim, then return the item with trackable shipping. You should then get your money back.</p>

<p>I sell nothing online, but I sell enough B&W silver emulsion prints to pay for this wee little photography hobby I seem to have fallen into. People buy my stuff because it's the best B&W available that has local content.</p>

<p>The film is probably going to have increased grain and base fog, which will cause reduced contrast.</p>

<p>They use the same lugs as the 6x7. The LX uses a smaller variation of the same thing. They are both available on Ebay pretty regularly.</p>

Both Pentax 645 and Mamiya 645 are cheap, easy to use, and will produce nice images.

<p>With a 4:3 aspect ratio at 300ppi (which is often accepted as the standard for good prints) you get about 11.2"x14.9".</p>

<p>To figure out what you can get from different ppi, multiply each of those numbers by 300/ppi. So, if you want to figure out the print size for 240 ppi, 11.2" * (300/240) = 14", and 14.9" * (300/240) = 18.6".</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I'm not quite sure what you mean, but if I still think the image is nice a month after printing it the first time, it's a nice image. :)</p>

<p>Are you manually setting the aperture and shutter speed yourself? The sunny 16 rule is that in bright direct sunlight, an appropriate combination is f/16 at 1/ISO.<br>

If we use ISO 100, then<br>

1/125 at f/16 is good, as are<br>

1/15 @ f/45<br>

1/30 @ f/32<br>

1/60 @ f/22<br>

1/250 @ f/11<br>

1/500 @ f/8<br>

1/1000 @ f/5.6</p>

 

After a photographer took pictures of a police shooting (non-life threatening injuries) in Vancouver BC, he was roughed up a bit by officers who forcibly took his camera. ly by officers because he refused to turn his camera over to the police. The police chief apologized for the camera seizure (while defending his officers), and sent out a bulletin to officers reminding them that they cannot take cameras without an arrest, a warrant, or a reason to believe evidence on the camera might be destroyed.

<br />

In my opinion, it's too bad that third clause is included.<br />

 

<p>Big: Pentax 67<br>

Small: LX for its -6 EV</p>

<p>Do you already have the 45mm for this camera?</p>

I'm with Todd on the Pentax K20D.

<p>I'm of the opinion that people over-estimate the potential image degradation of cheap filters, because they read it online then repeat it; I think it is mostly an internet myths. I'd be happy to be proven wrong if anyone has conducted a test with their camera mounted on a hefty tripod that shows image degradation of identical shots and can post examples.<br>

I have personally never noticed any IQ problems from throwing a cheap filter in front of my top notch lenses. Cheap Polarizers and ND filters can and will cause colour shifts, but the more expensive filters should cause less of a colour shift than the cheap ones.</p>

<p>When enlargering, I get Newton Rings sometimes when there is something like a large piece of dust between the glass pieces, because is presses one side of the negative into the glass on the other side of the speck.</p>

<p>It's not quite the same, but when I upload huge .tif files (up to 1GB) to be printed at a lab, I use WinRAR to spit the file into small chunks. This will usually take a 1GB file to under 200Mb, but will use over 100 files to do it. I also find fewer upload errors when the files are small as they can easily be resent without wasting much badnwidth, as opposed to a monster file that needs to be sent again.</p>

<p>You might consider getting a used Pentax67 with a 105mm or 90mm lens instead. It's a big easier to use than the RB67 and has the same size neg.</p>

<p>If you want insane, check out the "Canon EOS 5D Mark II 4GB USB Drive", which I'll describe rather than post the auction number.<br>

It looks like a photoshopped image of a 5D with a 24-105mm lens to make the lens look like a thumb drive, and the body is the cap for the part that plugs into the computer. The seller is from Taiwan and has 2 feedback.</p>

<p><strong>NEW</strong> <br>

<strong>Canon 4GB USB Drive </strong><br>

<strong>4GB USB drive in the shape of EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM</strong> </p>

<hr />

<p>On Mar-28-09 at 07:46:23 PDT, seller added the following information:<br>

<strong>100% Real</strong> <br>

<strong></strong> <br>

<strong></strong> <br>

Tax or other custom fees are responsible by the buyer</p>

<p>Winning bid:<br>

o***s( 2 ) US $590.00 27-Mar-09 18:14:18 EDT</p>

<p>Companies advertize MP as important. Magezines talk about MP as important. People of the male variety usually like to compare through quantification to see how it stacks up to their friends' stuff : "check out this 68" Ultra-wide 8000:1 contrast 1920p HDTV I just bought" , and MP provides a convenient method for this.</p>

<p>Henry's is very reputable and has low shipping costs. The question will be if you have to pay anything extra when your lens crosses the border, and Henry's won't necessarily know the scoop about duties/taxes for where you live (nor do I).</p>

<p>I have quite a bit of experience with techpan and technidol. You can dilute the package of technidol for the patterson tanks to develop a roll of 35mm without changing the developing time. If you do 120 film, you need two packages to cover it. In both instances you can probably re-use the developer by adding one more minute (so 10 minutes at 20 degrees), assuming that your first roll is of a normal density. If your first roll is a bit dense, then for the 35mm you have no chance of developing a second roll, but the 120 film is probably sitll ok unless they are very dense.</p>

<p>I like the design of your website, but I think your sample pictures should be a bit larger so they stand out more. Currently (and I usually have this problem myself), the text stands out more than the photography. Unfortunately, I read Tony's comment before looking myself - and now I can't see the shot any other way than what he's described. If I force myself I can see if differently, but that viewpoint goes away and back comes Tony's :). It is a very nice capturem, but her hand distracts me.</p>

<p>I'm going to say the SMC Pentax-A 1:1.7 50mm.</p>

<p>That looks very much light a light leak to me.</p>