jason_meyers1

this may not be exactly what you are looking for, but hopefuly it will help. I am currently in an internet cafe on the last day of 2 weeks touring italy. with my d50, i have taken about 2000 photos, high quality jpeg. I have 3 gb worth of memory (borrowed some). every 3 or 4 days, i dumped them to cd/dvd. It is probably easiset if you just get a standalone burner, but i also have a budget, so i did the internet cafe thing. One thing i find is, use internet cafes, not photo stores. photo stores are slower (one told me 2 hours, one 4), cost more (by card, 8-15 dollars each or more.) and can only do one card per cd/dvd usually. the internet cafes, on the other hand, charge by cd/dvd, 5-10 dollars, can consolidate the cards, and take about 15 minutes for all of it. I have used two different internet cafes, and 4 different photo stores(just dumped one card, to last me a day), and i recommend the internet cafes.

i'm assuming you are talking about standard film. I think that the orange is in the base, and that you can't remove it, but whether you can or can't, you don't need to. In my experience, it prints fine on Ilford multigrade IV (i've only used rc) paper. You need a filter in the 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 area to get good contrast though. It should work fine on other multi-contrast papers but probably not too well on most graded paper.

do you have a starting time for the hc110? we have fg7, so thats the only thing i have even an idea for what is a basic start time. I actually found an old bottle of hc110 in the chemical cabinet.

Digging through the junk box in my school's photo classroom, I came

across a box ofd 4x5 film. It is quite old looking and says Kodak

Royal Pan Film, 4141 thick, estar thick base .007. It lists cat 149

1422. it is dated march 1979. someone wrote on it asa 400 and a few

development times, unfortunately not for the developer i happen to

have. Does anyone know anything about this film, or where i might

find dev times? also, what should i do to compensate for the fact

that it is very old? more development? less development?

Having shot a lot of tri-x and hp5, I am looking to try some more

modern films. I like the tri-x, but its just too grainy sometimes. I

picked up a few rolls of t-max 100. I develop at my high school, they

use fg7. I can mix my own from the stock solution at any dilution. I

have heard that this, which is similar to d76 and id11, does not yield

good results with this film. any recommendations?

Your pictures are cool, maybe a little over the top on some of the effects, however they show your skill in photoshop, not so much composition. I would recommend when framing an image not considering the ability to crop later, and get only what you want in the final image. Instead of moving from the P+S to a digital slr, consider a used (therfore cheap) 35mm slr. For sports photography, the only thing (equipment wise) you really need is a camera without a shutter lag and (usually) a long lens. I shoot sports photo with a 20yr old, fully manual, minolta, and 200 and 300mm prime lenses, and get some amazing photos. Also, as much as i would love one, i definately dont think you should get a d2x. a d50 or used d70 seems a little more reasonable. spend the big money on your lenses.

 

If you post some photos that havent been photoshopped, it will give us a better idea of what you are doing.

I shot a roll pushed to 1600 at the beach at night, some of my best pictures were on it. i developed with fg-7, which is the el cheapo (im a student, use school resources) version of d76 or id-11. pushing two stops needs a 75% increase in time, so whatever that gets you after accounting for temperature.

I have had very good results with sensia, which is supposed to be essentially the same film as provia. I would recommend one of those (sensia is cheaper, if that is of significance, it is to me). elite chrome isn't bad, but it's more grainy and the colors aren't as good as sensia. People look great on sensia, and i have found only velvia superior for landscapes.

I recently shot a few rolls of 400 speed color slide file that had expired about a year prior and hadn't been refrigerated. THey came out great. I would also be very surprised if there is a degradation of performance.

I just have to say I hope it's safe. I am still in high school, and do my developing there. I have gotten chemicals on my hands plenty of times, and am so far ok. Gloves are foreign to us in the darkroom, there isn't a box of them floating around.

It is possible, although unlikely that an adapter exists. this adapter would be a small metal ring, and probably cost about $20. this web page:

 

http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mounts.htm

 

explains that. Unfortunately, I don't think one is available. hope this page helps.

<p>Having an SRT201 in the family, and having had the same problem, it is almost almost definately the battery. We had the same problem, although it was 2 stops off. It expects the old mercury batteries (not available because of environmental damage caused by mercury), which you can probably find on ebay, but it's easier to just compensate by adjusting the ASA. The people at the shop which CLA'd it a few years ago told us to just set the film two stops higher. It has worked fine.

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<a href="http://home.pcisys.net/~rlsnpjs/minolta/mercury.html">http://home.pcisys.net/~rlsnpjs/minolta/mercury.html

</a></p><p>

this website explains it in much more detail. a link at the bottom shows you how to do the modification yourself, which you may want to do. The only advice i can offer if you decide to do the modification is use a good screwdriver. it will save you a lot of trouble. (thats from my experiances taking apart a similar camera).</p>