david-m

Hi Shun and thanks for the reply.

I understand what you are saying, but I presume the centre AF point (which I use almost exclusively) should be perfectly

usable for my needs. The fact that horizontally or vertically it is very slow to 'find' focus is disturbing, irritating and

ultimately loses me shots.

Can I say that I am a portrait photographer, have had a D700 for a month now, and share exactly the same focussing

issues as Steven. I came from a `D2x which would acquire the focus almost instantly, and find that the D700 hunts for a

second or two or four, even using good studio lighting (ie not dim light). I always focus on an eye, and use the centre AF

point (focus and recompose - I am an old lag) and for me this is my one big problem with the D700. In the last two jobs I

have become more and more frustrated at losing good poses because the AF does not find the focus fast enough. I

have done loads of comparisons with my old D2x and I am becoming increasingly irritated with the D700. To be honest I

thought it was just me, because I have not heard anyone else complain till now. In fact I was considering selling the

camera because of this issue.

I have this with my new 24-70, and my well used 85 1.4.

If anyone has any thoughts on this - maybe there is a problem with my (and Steven's) camera...

These are difficult questions!

The D60 has a small viewfinder and is a bit tunnel like (a huge difference to the Leica) but I think you could get used to it

on a long trip (given the obvious advantages of digital).

You are going to miss the f2 aperture, but this is compensated for by the easy adjustments to iso (up to 800 or 1600 at a

push). But you will miss the selective DOF that f2 gives (swings and roundabouts).

I would look into a decent but light zoom like the 16-85 NIkon (24 to 127 equivalent) to keep on one body. Save the other

body as a spare. Maybe take a 50.1.8 as a cheap (like £70) low light helper lens (and as a spare lens).

These are all tough decisions, but I am guessing that as a cyclist there are other important parts to your trip (like the actual pedalling, The

Mountains, finding water, food, good camping spots, bloody traffic etc etc) and so photography is only one part. The D60

route is well worth thinking about, but there are other ideas that I'm sure youu have thought about or others have

suggested.

BTW, what is your route going to be? And where did you see my website (out of interest)

David<div></div>

I have cycle toured extensively over the last 15 years (All over Asia, Africa, South America, Europe, USA, etc etc) and

always taken two Leica M6s and loads of slide film. I carried the film with me (sometimes for 6 months) and kind of

limited myself a bit when I was running low on film. I always guess I use about 2 or 3 rolls a week as there are often a

few days here or there with just nothing too exciting to photograph, and then a few days of something amazing. I carry

the the bodies with a 28 and and 90 lens in the handlebar bag. Never had any problems with the cameras or leaving the

film undeveloped for SIX months (truly).

BUT... I shoot digitally for work (portraits/lifestyle/products) and so this past few months I have been trying to decide

how to shoot digitally for the next long bike trip (November for a couple of months). Having done tons and tons of

research I think I would advise you get TWO Nikon D60 bodies, one standard fast prime lens and one medium wide-tele

zoom. These are not expensive cameras. Store one body in a rear pannier, well padded just for emergencies. The

camera is light and produces excellent files. These will not be as good as the Leica film if properly scanned (IMHO) but

very close, and without the hassle of developing/printing/scanning/storage. Learn to shoot RAW files, and store

everything on a huge load of SD cards (which cost next to nothing).

The files from the D60 will be superior to the Canon G9/10 as there is a much larger sensor, and the Nikon is pretty

small and light. The 2 Nikon bodies will weigh about the same as one Leica body.

Yu can also shoot RAW and basic Jpg at the same time so as to upload stuff to your website on the road without having

to convert the RAW files. I have carried a compact digital camera for years (for fun shots) and never had a problem with

finding power to recharge the batteries. They last for a few hundred shots, and if you have a spare body, then you

automatically have a spare battery, which you keep charged.

Leave the rolleiflex and Leica at home (sad) and buy lots of memory cards.

Have a great cycle.

David

I have done two long cycles in Cuba (one this year and one 9 years ago) with 2 Leica M6s, a couple of lenses and loads

of film. I am a pretty experienced long distance cyclist (Pakistan, China, India, Nepal, Chile, Bolivia Argentina, USA,

Mexico, Eastern Europe, central Africa, Madagascar, Iceland .....) and an experienced photographer.

I would just bring all the film you need from home, then take the film back home with me. I am sure there are some

facilities in Havana but just schlep them home and get them developed somewhere you trust. A few weeks of warm

humid weather is neither here nor there for film.

Getting the stuff in and out of the country is zero hassle - tons of people go to Cuba to take photos and immigration don't

seem to care a bit about it.

Apart from a couple of touristy parts of old Havana (where there are some slightly dodgy characters - but nothing

compared to any major big city in UK or US) I have found Cuba to feel totally safe, unthreatening and positively warm

and friendly, even with cameras slung around my neck.

As for cycling - the roads (even in Havana) are quiet, slow, peaceful (it is a lovely 25km ride from the airport to Havana

Viejo). People generally ignore you as so many tourists go cycling on the island, so cyclists are nothing unusual. It is a

great place, with lovely people and beautiful scenery. Easy to find places to stay even in the countryside (although

always ask at your last Casa where the next casa are en-route is), and the casas always provide superb food.

Don't fret about it. Enjoy.

David (UK)<div></div>

Hi Brooks, It is the same problem when looking at the data in Bridge.

I have just noticed, though, that the NEF files show all the exif date, but it is the jpgs that do not show the data.

Generally I only shoot RAW so maybe I just never noticed this happening before, and in fact it always had this issue!

Oh what the hell, as long as the big black brick takes photos!

Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the replies.

Arthur, I didn't use GPS software.

Richard, these are the original files straight from the camera and then saved in PS CS2.

Ah ha - in the 'Jeffrey's exif viewer' it shows all the data. But what is happening with the CS2? Irritating...

Any other ideas gratefully received.

thanks

David (UK)

Joe A,

I am up to date with the updates, and the fact that this just started out of the blue is puzzling. Also, it is the same problem

with my Mac G5 and my G4 laptop. Not 'the end of the World' but mysterious....

My D2x shows the exif data in camera (on the back screen when you toggle through) but when I open the file in CS2 there is only the iso

and max aperture info available. The 'speed,' 'aperture value' and 'lens' fields are blank. This only started a few days ago, having been fine

for the past three years.

I have reformatted the cards, used different cards, tried my lap top (also with CS2), different lens - no luck.

Does anyone have any ideas about this, please?

Many thanks.

David (UK)

Over the last 3 years I have bought almost all of my (pro) equipment from Park Cameras. On one occasion the (new) D2x

had a problem after a few days use and when I took it into the shop they checked it and (no more than) two minutes later

swapped it for a new unopened D2x (which was perfect). Smiles all around. They have always been really good to deal with

Although I live close and just pop into the shop) and so hopefully this is a one off experience. BTW I have totally no

connection with Park cameras (except that they have lots of my money and I have lots of their equipment).

Good luck.

Ditto Alan's idea with two identical filters. I use two BWs.

I've done it this way for years and after a while it becomes really quick and easy to do (but

beware over doing the polariser 'effect').

These images are truly superb, many thanks for sharing.

David

Kenny,

Really like the work, and imagine it would look great printed very large as an exhibition,

together with some audio. Would have liked to have seen similar shots in different seasons

though.

Thanks.

David (UK)

Many thanks for this.

I have a G5 and a PowerMac which would both take Leopard. I'm gonna do it!

Cheers.

David

I wanted to upgrade from my Mac system 10.3.9 to the new Leopard (I thinks it's 10.5) and wondered if

anyone had made this jump and had encountered any issues/conflicts/problems after doing it.

I would be doing this as Alamy will soon only accept new images uploaded online, and they need 10.4

as a minimum requirement.

Many thanks

David

Once while taking photos in a small village in northern Pakistan, I sneaked a shot of a

large bearded guy walking towards me with a bullet belt and an AK47 slung over his

shoulder. Unfortunately he saw me (I am rubbish at being sneaky) and he came over and

started pushing me in the forehead with his finger and shouting in Urdu. After about a

minute of me mumbling some kind of pathetic apologies, and during which time a rather

large crown gathered, I decided to take my life in my hands and so I punched him quite

hard in his neck under his chin (my first ever punch). He staggered back a step and then

slapped me on the back, laughed and walked off. Hmm.... This was perhaps the most

stupid thing I ever did, but I guess I was just lucky to get away with it.

Usually I have no problems taking street photos, I think the longer you hang around in the

same place, the more people start to ignore you, but sometimes people do get a bit upset,

and I usually just kinda put my hands up, make a little pathetic smile and walk off,

although (truthfully) I feel really bad, and I need a while to regain my confidence again.

Just wondering, is there any reason not just use the D70 and convert to BW back home?

I realsie the difference in 'look' with film (and the DOF issues), but for the inconvenience

of thinking ' M3 BW or D70 colour, which camera shall I use?" - and the extra weight.

If you are really into taking the M3 then absolutely go with FP4 (Pan F is far too contrasty

and slow). Maybe pop in a couple of HP5 for dusk shots.

Have fun

BTW in 2 days I am off to Uganda (on my bicycle) and taking my M6/provia/FP4 and HP5!

Emir, nIce bike.

Her's my bird on our cycle through Argentina last year.

M6TTL, 28 Cron, Provia F

Regards

David<div></div>

Thanks Ken,

I've tried re-formatting the card, with no better results, but I will now pop in another SD

card and do a test with this one.

Regards

David

I have a Panasonic DMC FX9 as my carry-around snappy, and about one in 8 times the image does this

funny thing (see photo below) AFTER I have transferred it to my computer. If I copy the image over

again from the camera it sometimes 'reads' it correctly (that is to say - how it looks on the camera

monitor), and sometimes it remains 'corrupted?'

I get the same problems on odd frames in the movie mode. The images always look fine on the camera

monitor.

Could this be solved by using an SD card reader (I have a CF firewire one for my D2X) or is there

another issue?

Many thanks for any advice.

David

Love the sand dunes

regards

david (UK)

Hey Jack Lo,

Love it!!!

In Applications go to Image Capture and open it - ignore the device not connected bit,

then in preferences select 'when a camera is connected - do not open iphoto'.

regards

David