david-m

Hey, will definately search through ebay for the various timers, but kinda love the idea of

riding over the bulb of

a pnuematic release - do they make them about 30 metres long!

thanks

David

Searching through previous posts I can't seem to find any decent solution for this.

I am soon off to Africa with my usual travel combo of two M6 TTLs and a couple of lenses. I need

something that will give me at least 10 to 15 seconds before release, as I need to take photographs of

myself and partner cycling in a wilderness area (for a specific ad campaign). The only other hope is

finding another person with decent photo skills in middle-o-nowhere just when the scenery/weather/

clouds/road is perfect.

BTW, before you ask, I also have a D2X but for my kind of trips digital is too large/delicate/dust prone/

preipheral needy, for expedition style cycling. No I don't want to get into a debate about this, but in 9

years of doing these extended remote cycle trips I have never had any problems with the M6s and that's

why they are-a-coming with.

Any ideas really welcome. Many thanks.

David (UK)<div></div>

I have a D2x and have often also scanned Provia F (from a Leica M6) using an ED5000.

Without a doubt the D2X is more comaprable to my old RZ67 in terms od resolution, even

with sizes of A2 and slightly larger. The Provia scans are superb (well I did use Leica

glass), but for me the D2X wins hands down.

As has been said, there are tons of posts about this subject on PNet, do a search, get a

large mug of tea and a packet of Custard Creams and settle in for the night to read them.

Regards

David

Take a wander around Kreuzberg for the decaying warehouses, grafitti art and greenary all

over the buildings, and the unusual shops, cafes and 'wacky' Berlin locals. BTW, Berlin is a

really great and friendly city.

Have fun. (Oh and you must have breakfast at one of the 100s of nice cafes in Kreuzberg

- a real treat).

David

James,

Almost all hotels/guesthouses in India will have a secondary (or possibly only) door lock

that takes a padlock. Be sure to take your own padlock with you from home (or bought

locally). Not a huge monster padlock, as the space for the lock to go through is usually not

so large. This will be enough. Also, most 'tourist' guesthouses will have a safe or

something similar. Hey, don't get too paranoid about it. It will all become clear soon

enough....

David

Hi James,

I would not be too concerned about safety in India; there are as many bad people in India

as any other place in the world (people are people are people) but just take the normal

precautions you would do in any strange city/area.

I've travelled 5 times to India with 2 Leica M6s and two lens (28 and 50, in a small over the

shoulder bag (actually a handlebar bag from my bicycle - yes these were cycling trips) and

this combination was ideal. Usually one body with FP4 and one with Provia F. A 400 iso

film would be fine too.

I would say that the 24 lens is a prefect street lens, with the 50 stuck in the bag/ or on the

backup in the bag). I would never had used a 70-150. If you take too much gear then you

will hate schlepping it around all day, every day. I would not take a tripod or flash, but that

is a personal preference.

If you are backpacking then just put your camera bag into the backpack when travelling

put do keep a close eye on it especially at bus/train station. It is not a problem to keep

your camera around your next at all times, as all people see you as a tourist, and tourists

carry cameras - it's nothing unusual.

Don't know what the lead bag stuff is about - just keep all your film (exposed and

unexposed) in your hand luggage and let them xray it - a few doses is totally fine.

Other than that, India is an amazing country with fantastic people and totally mind-

blowing sights - you will have a ball.

One note is that (like many developing countries) the most hassle from locals is in the

areas where most tourists hang out. So, Taj Mahal/Agra is full of pushy, dodgy locals

trying to relieve you of some dollars, yet in central Gujarat (still incredible sights) you will

be left alone totally, and not hassled. Also, I found almost every little unknown town/city

to be packed full of interesting things to see, so (for me, at least) I would forsake some of

the more famous areas (like Jaipur/Johdpur) in favour of some never heard of city/ town

nearby.

Have great fun

David

To answer my own question - did the upgrade from v1.0 to v2.0 without a hitch.

David

Does anyone know if it is possible to upgrade the firmware on my D2X to the new v2.0 without having

first upgraded to 1.1. (- I still just have v1.0).

Many thanks

David

I really love the image, - and the arms, dress tugging didn't even cross my mind. Don't like

the rings (really cheesey), but the fonts are fine. Push logo/name down and bit and check

that the tel number will be large enough in the final ad - then use it.

Regards

David

OK, the 1.4 is the far better lens, especially wide and near wide-open. BUT, the DOF at 1.4

and even 1.8 is barely a couple of centimetres (ish) and with a moving person (even near

static) will be incredibly difficult to reliably keep in sharp focus. I would stick with the 80

-200 and use a monopod/tripod, or if you wanted to try it, buy the 1.8 (which is pretty

good wide-open anyway).

Enjoy

Oh and, Sergey,

I know it is a difficult comaprison (my travel stuff/studio portraits/viewing on the screen)

but all the colour portraits were with the Nikon, the BW with the RZ and all the travel with

the M6 and either a 28/2, 50/2 or 90/2.8 - if you are interested.

www.davidmyersphotography.com

regards

David (UK)

Hi Sergey

Before you invest a huge amount of money on a Leica system, I would like to take the

alternative point of view. I have used M6's and Leica glass for many years (about 15) and

the quality of the final image can often be superb (probably the best in any 35mm format/

brand). I used this system for travel shots for magazines/stock/illustration, and the

occassional studio/outdoor portrait.

A year ago I bought a DSLR with various lenses (D2X) for my portrait business to replace a

Mamiya RZ (6x7). The DSLR also produces superb images, easily equal to the RZ (in final

print size to about A2)

My conclusions in answer to your particulr questions are:

The Leica M system has top lens quality that I have only equalled on the Nikon with their

85 1.4 lens. In particular the Leica 90 Elmarit is a really fantastic portrait lens (for street

and studio) and I would imagine the 70/2 cron is equal/better. The Nikon glass (I have not

tried the entire range!) apart from the superb 85/1.4 is good but not Leica quality in terms

of

sharpness, resolution IMHO.

Personally I love using the DSLR for portraits, I can shoot of loads of frames without

worrying about the cost, try new stuff I would not normally have done with film (just

because it is 'free') and then don't have to worry about scanning/retouching afterwards.

And the print quality is fantastic.

For

all my travel stuff (I do expedition style photography) I still prefer the Leica because it is

lighter to carry around, and I know I can totally rely on it (the fact that it is not crammed

full of computer bits which possibly are more delicate than the M6).

There is a huge differnece in framing on a RF system to your D70, the framelines being

good but not perfect for tight framing. This, though, is something you will almost certainly

get used to. The focusing with the RF is pretty well as easy as it gets (even in low light)

and I find it no faster/slower/less or more accruate than the advanced auto focus on my

D2X.

For sure the Leica will be quiet and discreet on the street, but honestly I think your D70 is

no more obtrusive or particularly louder (okay a bit louder) in an outdoor situation - a

person with a camera on the street will either attract attention or not with a small DSLR or

an M6.

I don't want to put you off buying into the Leica rangefinder system (for heaven's sake I

have two M6's and five lenses, love them to bits and would never part with them) but if it

is the final image you are concerned with (as opposed to absolute quality) then I would

stick with the Nikon, spend some money on the D200 and something like the 50 1.8 or 85

1.4 (if you do not already have them) and continue shooting great pictures (as you do

already).

On the other hand, if you have set your heart on the Leica RF system then I am sure you

will love it.

Sorry if this is a ramble but thought I would share some personal thoughts with you.

Good luck with the decision.

David (UK)

Just a few friendly comments....

The script is quite difficult to read and kinda ye-olde-fashioned

The music is distracting and eventually irritating.

It takes an age to load, and would have lost me if I wasn't doing a crit for you.

You have some good images but I would like to see more.

I think it needs some tweaking and would then be a really nice site - good luck

Regards

David (UK)

Sorry not a D200, but a year ago my new D2X would not lock the selected focus area, took

it back to 'Ye Olde Digital Camera Shoppe' here in the UK and it was replaced in two

minutes with one that worked just fine. I guess these days, every company, in all spheres,

has some QC problems. Sad but probably true.

Regards

David

I use one, and as long as each batch of slides is roughly the same thivkness it works

perfectly. You can set it, and go and do something else for an hour, so well worth it if you

are scannning many slides.

David

As you only have a week, I would stay on the Argentinian side, hire a car and travel the

Siete Lagos route and around Junin de los Andes to Volcano Lanin, or south into the

national park that I can't remember the name of!

I did all this and more on a bicycle last year, so I would definitely recommend a car or

motorbike!

Have fun

David

Could anyone give me an idea on the following.

To increase my portfolio and try to gain in-roads into the music biz world, I took a portrait of a rising

musician, just before he performed in the UK. The deal with his agent was that they could use (without

charge) the image for promo but not CD/album covers. Without this concession they would not have

agreed for him to sit for me, and I would not have his 'name' on my website.

I have now worked on the image and composited it into a mock-up CD cover with his name etc, as I

now realise that he has a new album out in three months...

They seem interested in using the image (but not my design) for the CD, and want a price from me. Any

thoughts how much I could charge for this, considering I did the original image for free, and they can

use the same image with there own artwork for posters etc (but not the CD).

This is new terratory for me, as normally I would just charge a flat portrait fee, and have not provided

anyone images for album covers before. I also want to consider future 'return' business from this record

label and the ability to show on my website an 'album cover'. Swings and roundabouts, but any ideas on

a fee?

Thanks so much

David

I have had both the 1.8 and the 1.4 85mm and tested them side by side.

Both are really excellent lenses, with the 1.8 being (just) a little soft at 1.8 and 2, but as

good as the 1.4 at smaller aperture. The 1.4 lens is truly a great lens. If you have the

money get the 1.4, if not the 1.8 lens is remarkable value and would suit your camera

really well. Honestly, I don't know what all this bokeh business is about; I have been a pro

portrait photographer for 18 years, and both lenses look about the same to me - call me

ignorant if you like.

Don't agonise, just buy either and you'll be happy.

David

OK here is the definitive answer (well kind of).

I have cycled more than 25,000 kilometres over the years in periods lasting 2 weeks to six

months, and in such extreme places as Madagascar, Bolivia, China, Pakistan, Iceland (the

list goes on...). I have always taken two bodies and 2 lenses with me carried in an Ortlieb

handlebar bag. Orleib stuff is 100% waterproof. The bag has been 'sponged out' using the

insides of a cheap camera bag. Of course the two cameras were pretty small (2 Leica M6s)

but they are not light.

In the front bag I can also fit sunglasses, money, a few rolls of film, filters, a 'dog dazzer'

to repel the four legged menace, a pen knife, a compass and a few sweets (candies).

I would also pad out any remaining space with a handkerchief or cloth to reduce rattling.

In the past 10 years I have never had any problem with this set up, no damge, nothing

loosening, nada. This is even with extended trips over appalling rough tracks, river beds,

and dropping the bike numerous times.

Now this is perfect for long long trips (if you add rear pannier bags for other stuff (like

sleeping bag and clothes etc) or for short trips combine it with a rear 'saddle bag'

(Carradice make ones

that fit huge amounta and last for ever) or a rack top bag on the rear rack. All the water

should be carried in water bottle on the actual bike.

I would unhesitatingly say that even with a lot of weight on the handlebar there is no

stability problems, in fact the bike feels great with weight on the handlebar.

I would suggest reducing the amount of gear you take (forget the mp3 and listen to the

birds or air rushing past your head), if you are going on a one or two day trip then stick to

just one body and two lenses.

Anything else, please ask. Cycling and photography are perfect partners; you can stop

when you want, you get to inaccessible places easily and you really earn your pics.

Enjoy

David<div></div>

Thanks guys, that helps a lot.

regards

David

Sorry if this seems a simple question with an obvious answer but ....

I am shooting a portrait in the morning and have decided (last minute) I want a red

background. I have a white paper background but can I just put red gels over the 2

background lights to get some kind of red-ish tint (or stronger) to the white paper?

I ask this even though I have no red gels, but also wonder if I can use the coloured gels

you find in art shops, or will I just melt the stuff (I use an Elinchrom 600RX flash)? Or any

other ideas of what I can use.

Many thanks in helping to reduce my ignorance.

David

Last year I spent 6 months cycling through south america with two M6s with a 28 and 50. I

have also travelled on longer cycling trips with just one M6 and either the 50 or 90 and the

28 and a P&S. Years ago in India I spent 3 months there with just a Rolleiflex and lots of

FP4.

IMHO I would go with one M6 and 2 lenses, plus a P&S. Although the rollei is a beautiful

thing you will end up carrying more film and having to change film more often and (I

think) you will miss some shots.

Then again, that lovely square negative ....

Go with the M6, 2 lenses and a P&S, stop giving yourself a headache and enjoy the trip.

Regards

David

Mark U,

I'm not sure that is entirely correct. If you think of an extreme example, then using a

300mm lens and a heavily cropped image from a 50mm lens; there will be substantially

more distance compression with the 300mm than the 50mm. This surely will be the same

principal with the 50 v 85 although to a much much less effect.

The perspective remains the same, but the compression alters.

But actually, I think any 50 to 85mm lens on a smaller sensor would make a good portrait

lens without regard to the compression issue.

David

VERY nice work, Carsten.

How did you find the experience of using the D200 as opposed to the Leica M6 you used

last time in Cuba? You know, the fact that you had (to most of the general public) an

obviously more 'flashy' camera than the simple little 'olde fashioned' M6. Were you treated

to a little more suspicion (as in fancy camera equals professional/press)? Also, did you end

up taking many more photos this time? I ask this because I have recently started using a

D2X for studio/local work although for most travel work I will still use my old M6s. (maybe

I should get a D200!)

Thanks, and again, nice work.

David

Thanks for the ideas - velvet on the ceiling as well, hmm - kinky, but makes sense. Yes it

is astonishing that in these theatres (quite large theatres) that they only have lots of tiny

rooms. But then again they were all built 200 years ago (when I suppose people were only

3 or 4 feet tall or something like that). I going to experiment before hand and let you

know how I get on.

Thanks

David