cmonkey

<p>While it is possible they put more pressure on a body, I doubt it is much. Repair crafters haven't mentioned anything about my use of winders, which are constantly on my bodies.</p>

<p>I have been using the Winder on my M's for almost all my photojournalism work since my first new M4-P, and now my M7s. Maybe collectors are afraid of them, but I've <em>never</em> had a problem. I did have one M motor drive (multiple frames) and it is a mechanical mess, so I purged it from my kit. You can feel the body practically convulse, and my teeth chatter with each wind. ;-) I've had the newer winder for just a few months. It is rather nice with its smaller size and built in grip, but I do not care for the odd battery size, especially since I travel to a lot of war torn countres where the 3V batteries are impossible to find.</p>

<p>May I ask why this contest is so important that it is locked to and lighted at the top of the list of topics? It seems relevant to wedding photographers mostly.</p>

<p>Thanks for all your great responses. I really appreciate it. My concern was not build so much as IQ. Allow me to ask another question: Are there lenses in the Hasselblad V lineup which are considered real gems. Perhaps sharper than others? I use a 50mm, 80mm, and 150mm right now. I want to round out my lens lineup, and could like to know which lenses to focus on. For example, would I be better off with a 60mm/100mm, as opposed to using my 80mm for my normal lens? I want to go wider and longer. Are there any preferred lenses in the 180mm-500mm range?</p>

<p>I have a number of Hasselblad C T* lenses. Is there any advantage, particularly optically, in upgrading to a CF version? And what is the difference between a CF and CFi lens? Thank you for any recommendations or information.</p>

<p>Most allow you to choose either. I enjoy my Gossen DigiSix. Very small and light.</p>

<p>That is really common, and won't really affect the picture. I used to see it on many Nikkors right out of the box, but it seems it's not as big of an issue with newer lenses.</p>

<p>I find that mine hangs on the Google-Analytics stuff usually.</p>

<p>Interesting setup. Two other alternatives: 1) you can have Batteries Plus build one pretty cheaply, and 2) I have found the $25 fleabay adapters for 9v batteries to be perfectly satisfactory.</p>

<p>For sharpness (and contrast) my AF version wins, but for bokeh and a bit warmer, more rounded look, I'd go with (as I personally almost always do), with the AIS version. There's my vote. Hang on for a bunch more.</p>

<p>I've been using it since it was first out and it has saved me a ton of time. While more expensive than loading your own sheets into holders, it pays for itself because you don't spend as much time dusting and shooting extra shots. Others suggest shooting at ISO 50, but for my equipment, ISO 100 is spot on. I also CLA my equipment every year. It could also depend on what you develop it in. If you over expose it, the highlights get a bit blocked up. On my Sinar X, either a Polaroid 545i or Fujifilm back gives perfectly flat, sharp images. For B&W, I use Acros for probably 80% of my work, and Pan-F and TMax 100 for the rest.</p>

<p>PTGui would also smooth out the difference, most likely.</p>

<p>Spencer, you might write KEH and find out what the 12 release means. I've not heard of that. The lens choice is excellent for general work. It is a bit wider than a "normal" lens on 35mm, so it works pretty well for most uses. I've owned all but the 160mm, 180mm and zooms for the V system, and this is probably the single lens I might choose (though the 60mm would be a close second). B50 is bayonet 50 (a Hasselblad size). Get a B50 to 52mm step down adapter and use standard, cheap filters. The hood will still fit if you go to 52mm rather than go up to 55mm or more. It is a very good price for the setup, and I also have had good luck with Bargain ratings, with only one exception, in which case they immediately offered to take it back. While you will be thrilled with this combination, if they had a 503cx or other setup with an acute mat screen, you would be happier, or you could just buy a screen later and add it to the 500cm.</p>

<p>Kent, I am a photographer at a magazine, so my viewpoint might be a bit slanted, but it depends entirely on the agreement the magazine has, either with you or the stock agency. In a sense, the cover is a promotional element for the content. You might focus on that part of the agreement. It might be included somehow in that kind of verbiage. Personally, I would not be upset about this, but again, this is my skewed viewpoint.</p>

<p>Hi Luis, I bought an adapter for a project where I used one on a V camera because I couldn't get the H system I needed. However, I do not know if they work with the foot at the bottom of the SWC. I don't live in the states anymore, but I bought the adapter through the Calumet Photo folks. You might ask them.</p>

<p>Sorry Pete, my mistake. I meant the highlights, obviously, not shadows. I learned what I know by more than just the Internet and books, so don't be rude.</p>

<p>I know in the states, if you order imported Fuji Acros from Freestyle, you get SS.</p>

<p>And finally, you ought to learn some manners and tact. Cheryl</p>

<p>I'm not diggin the bokeh though. I shoot wide open for effect, not because I need the speed.</p>

<p>You don't have to be a pro to put images in the critique area. Why don't you upload some to your photo gallery here, that you want some comments about? May I also make a suggestion if you are relatively new to photography? If using digital, shoot everything and anything. Don't worry about the significance of the subject. Carry your camera and shoot manhole covers, or trees, or whatever you have in your area. Study the lighting you use, the placement of subjects in your composition, and see what you like? Pick a subject (any subject) and shoot a dozen images of it with different lighting and framing, and start to see what you like. But do let us know where to see your pics (and don't be afraid to share them).</p>

<p>Beautiful work, Moises. I really like your website. I use Acros extensively (well, Neopan SS usually, where I buy it). I find the shadows block up a lot anyway when overexposed so I tend to go the other way, underexposing and overdeveloping. By over-exposing and shortening the development time, you'd be compressing the tonal range, yeilding higher contrast. Is that the way you want to go?</p>

<p>Where did you study in London? Are you intent on staying there, or free to travel?</p>

<p>Nice link Martin. You often hear of some of these formulas, but no one really has the specifics worked out. As I love to work in the darkroom these days, when I can, I plan to try some of these. Have you been using the caffenol type developers?</p>

<p>As a side note, I have not been on Photo.net a lot since I joined, but it would be nice to allow people to share links in their profiles. I could go to someone's profile, whom I like, and see some great resources. I know the problem is the expiration of pages, but there are some sites that are pretty constant. Cheryl.</p>

<p>A lensbaby will not do what you want. It lets you control out of focus areas, not barrel distortion. Optically, they are quite good, so that won't work. I don't think you'll find a lens like that, and I think Tommy's suggestion to add it in PhotoShop (maybe the Nikon software has it too) would be your only option.</p>

<p>Marks like these can also come from airport x-ray machines. You weren't traveling with this film were you? I can't imagine a lab mishandling film so badly that you would have kinks or creases in the film. One way to see if it is creases is that they will physically appear on the emulsion, so if you hold it at an angle, you will see the kinking around the area in question. And for what it's worth, I can't remember the last time I had a Hasselblad lens flare with a suitable lens hood attached.</p>

<p>And also check out this book. It is a good resource for stand development: http://www.blurb.com/books/533375 . It is also the only book I've found on the subject, other than a few mentions of the process here and there.</p>

<p>Andrew, I cannot imagine having to set up a tripod for all my shots. I use a Foba and it is just wonderful. Everything glides around instead of locking, unlocking, tightening, extending, yada yada. Totally worth the money over time.</p>

<p>Whoo, I'd love to Salah, but the Flash (or whatever you're using) just takes waaay to long to run. Cheryl</p>