cmonkey

<p>Sumit, I think too many people think landscape photos are only taken using wide angle lenses. I use a moderate telephoto or normal lens for most of my landscapes. One important point you will want to research (if you plan to stitch together panos): do some search and research on the nodal point of the lens. It is typically the front of the front element of the lens. If you rotate around the nodal point, you won't have weird perspective or distortion problems to deal with. Really Right Stuff sells a bracket that allows you to rotate your lens around the nodal point.</p>

<p>Michael, what a great lens (and shots). I had a Mamiya Sekor 1000 DTL (My first SLR), and always wanted the 60mm Macro, but I didn't have the money and no one near me stocked it. Glad you still enjoy using the classics.</p>

<p>Hello fellow scanners. I am in desperate need of guidance on how to clean up some old negatives and slides that are about 20 years old, but have awful problems with dust and gunk. Is there a cleaning fluid for film? Isopropyl Alcohol? Rewash? These are B&W and color negatives mainly, but some chromes. Thank you.</p>

Does anyone think there will be any affordable new M mount rangefinders coming along soon? You'd think VC would

have something for us. I've got my fingers crossed for Photokina. I really want to shoot my Leica lenses on a

digital, but the M8 is too four out there for my pocketbook, and the R-D1 is too hard/expensive to find.

And I thought this was all just part of a normal workflow!

 

Geez Lex, how old ARE you?<g>

Hello Greg, When I was working in the motion picture industry we used a "Director's Finder" (do a Google search on the term). There are expensive ones that allow lenses to be fitted, or probably one of the more affordable versions might be something like the Cavision finder that has the optics built in and shows focal lengths for various movie formats (35mm being one of them): http://www.cavision.com/viewfinders/VFM11X.htm

I'm going on a trip to Brazil, where I hear the flowers and insects are quite beautiful. I want to carry minimal

equipment because I'll be taking a tripod, and just a dslr and my 50mm lens. Normally I would use my bellows to

do closeup shots, but thought I would look into buying an Nikon extension tube. I was a little surprised that

Nikon doesn't make tubes that meter and autofocus? Does anyone know if they plan to, or have any experience with

Kenko (I think) that makes tubes with the contacts? Will newer AF lenses work with these tubes? The camera will

be a D100 by the way.

Yes, I would stay alert around Havana. My boyfriend and I were "mugged" in an area around the resort we were staying at. The police won't help you--well maybe if you speak Spanish :-). We left most of our cash and belongings at the hotel, but lost an old Nikon and some ID. It was a hassle more than anything.

 

The people generally are very warm and seem to like tourists. The resorts treat you like kings and queens. The food and drink is wonderful though. The scenry is very beautiful. We were treated very well, but I would definitely be alert. The crime is probably not as bad as areas of US big cities, but being from Iowa, we were not anticipating the incident.

My uncle is giving me his Nikonos IV-A camera with 35mm lens. I can't get a

strait answer on whether it has rangefinder type focusing or if it has zone

focusing. Can anyone tell me if I have to guess or if I can focus with the view

finder?

Thanks for all the feedback. I was hoping the comment I read about Canon only having one lens design that isn't compatible with new bodies, didn't affect me. I'll probably keep some of the Canon equipment for film use, but I'm wide open on which DSLR (and now lens system) to buy. I like the way my friends Nikons handle and the images they get from their cameras. I've seen good things with Canon DSLRs too, but a little leary of the investment in the new lenses. Hopefully they won't change anytime soon, if I go that route.

I have a number of FD lenses for my Canon EF and F1 film cameras (breech

mounts). Will these lenses fit on the newer DSLR bodies, or would I have to also

upgrade my lenses to newer versions? Cheryl

I'm new to CS2 (from an old version of PS), and can't figure out how to copy a

selection and paste it onto the same layer. It keeps trying to create a new

layer for each copy and paste, which is killing my productivity. Any tips you

can give me on what I need to do to use the same layer? Thanks! Cheryl

Has anyone heard of any pricing yet for the Mamiya ZD or Sinar M? Cheryl.

I thought I've seen one from the distributors of Kiev before.

It's a fair buy, especially if the lens is very new. You can easily find it for less money on the auction site, but with Hasselblad (or other pro-level equipment), it's very, very difficult to determine how much wear there really is. If I could get it less than or around $1K, I'd feel better about it. Since it is a friend, you ought to do side by side shooting between the two cameras in real-world situations, like those you might use it in, then see which you like more.

Interesting review by PhotoZone of the f/1.4 and f/1.8 versions.

 

http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/lenses/nikkor_85_14/index.htm

http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/lenses/nikkor_85_18/index.htm

 

I sort of read that of the two samples used to test the f/1.4, that performance isn't as good as "the legend" of the faster lens, and that the test goes out of its way because people don't believe the performance wasn't as good as people thought it would be. The f/1.8 tested very favorably however.

I was thinking it would be fun to work with my nephew to study optics, and the

best way to do this would be an optics kit that guides you through putting

together various components so you can see the effects of each.

 

Does anyone know of such a kit or where to find one? Thank you!

I'm quite confused about what setting to use on a D200 to get the fastest

autofocus for my lenses. I've got some AFS lenses, but it seems the camera has

difficulty keeping up, even with high contrast subjects. I think it's just

because I don't know which matrix metering and all that I should be using. Can

anyone share some advice? Thank you.

Values are all over the place, but one good site I found from another thread can really help: http://www.collection-appareils.com/general/html/liste1_imagettes.php

 

Depending on the age of the collection.

Never in my life have I seen this, and I don't think you will because it's sort of a competitive / trade secret. You can ocassionally find lists of serial numbers for older equipment that can give you a clue... if they're true. I.e., a lens COULD be listed with a range of serial numbers from 10001 to 340001, indicating 33,000 units, but in reality, the last serial number only goes to 21,001 or something.

Also, try using the lens wide-open and focusing just on the nose. That will give you the short DOF the old photos have.

A Copal #3 will work on your Crown.

The 10 pin Nikon digital release for my D200 is so expensive! Does

anyone else have a more affordable supplier for the simple operation

of triggering the camera? My D50 used a $14 IR remote. Thanks! Cheryl

You don't need a Bokeh for Idiots books because we have all the misinformation you could want about the subject on these forums.

In older versions of PS I could copy part of the image and paste it

where I wanted it, all within the same layer. With CS2, when I copy

part of the image and paste it, the program automatically creates a

new layer. The result is a bunch more layers than I really want or need.

 

Is there any way to make CS2 paste the copied section into the same

layer as it came from?