carl_bretteville

I've had mine since the beginning of March '04. The only complaint I have is the 6second save time of RAW shots. Even if the camera is abit noicy at 400 it dosen't look bad if the shot is converted to B&W. Mine is mostly stuck at ISO100 and I live fine with that. Like any tool you have to learn how it works best for you. Yes, it was expendive when new, but boy has it been fun using it. It still churns out great images and I have no regrets.

 

At $600 is 1/3 of the original price (if I remember correctly) and that is, IMHO, a excellent image quality for your money even by today's standards.

 

- Carl

JI recently picked up what looks like a brand new one from DAG Camera for my M6. $15 + S/H. Works great, just tell him you need one for an M6TTl he'll sell you one that works. I had it (I live in Norway) in less than a week.

 

Dag's 'other' items, see item #DAG0246: http://www.dagcamera.com/otheritems.htm

 

Mine is like the black one in a transparent case in this snap http://www.dagcamera.com/s.t.JPG.htm

 

- Carl

All black Billingham L2/Alice extended with one or two AVEA3 side pockets when neccecary. One body with lens attached + three more lenses, a few rolls of film, pen, notepaper lenspen etc, etc, before I start adding the side pockets. Works for me.

Voightländer does sell film under it's own name (at least in parts of Europe)...

If the device is labled something like "100-240V 50-60Hz" it will work all over, all you need is a plug that fits the wall socket wherever you are. If it is labled "100-110V..." it will not work in 220-240V area and if vice versa.

 

- Carl

Very useful and it works with Thunderbird as well. Thanks for the tip!

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I use one on a E39 mount of the latest 50 'cron with filters (B+W and Leica), no extra vinetting at f2 as far as I've been able to see.

 

- Carl

There must be a lot of stuff in there, I just mesured the distance from the film plane to the bit of my Elmar-M protruding the furtherst into my M6 and the distance is something in the range of 6-7mm.

 

Doomed, no just an oppurtunity for someone like Lutz to come up with a gizmo that keeps us from collapsing it by mistake....

"I'll take the wonder a step further. Why in hell was the 1.5X crop sensor ever invented? The camera companies should have charged more, and gone straight to full frame."

 

Cost is one thing, vignetting is another. Image sensors are much more sencitive to the angle at which the light strikes it than film is. This can be controlled to some extent, but if the angle is low enough the light will not get to the receptors causing vignetting.<div></div>

Craig, that is what Leica have stated previously, it will have an R9 type shutter. This is supposedly it.<div></div>

I understand the emotional ties to turning the other way, but what's the big deal? I have an M6 and a D2. The dials turn in opposite diretions - so what?

Andrew,

A&O is reported as manifacturing the Agfa chemical line and it is at least availeble here in Europe. Freestyle in LA seems to have Rodinal in stock, see

 

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=4698

 

At $8 for 500ml I'd say that is still cheap.

 

- Carl

Another vote for the 25/4, great little lens. I also have a 21/4, it's a fine lens I guess, but I find it harder to controll than the 25. It's just a little too wide.

It hasn't been oficially announced so noone can say 100% one way or the other. What we do know is that Leica have stated previously that they will not make lenses with reduced image circles (like the DX lenses for dSLRs). From this we can speculate that the answer to your question will be "yes, it can". The M8 is scheduled to be announced on September 15th and the wide Tri-Elmar will probably be announced at the same time.

My youngest at the age of 2 weeks (last October). 90mm Elmarit-M, f2.8, 1/30sec, Fuju Acros.<div></div>

Richard,

They write something about that in the book, there shouldn't be any difference. The data in the book is mostly a reprint of the massive dev chart, garbage in garbage out I guess. Let's see if this link works: Here is that shot I mentioned above: http://www.pbase.com/digilux2/image/64871940

 

- Carl

I've been using D-76 1+1 for 7min 15sec at 20C with four inversions every 60 seconds with FP4+ and it works for me. I took about 10% off the time to allow for my scanning rather than printing the negs.<BR><BR> This is a shot done that way: http://www.pbase.com/digilux2/image/64871940

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Cheers,<BR>

- Carl

From red to green (or some other colour). From constant to blinking LED (or the other way around). From 'on' to 'off'. You'll know it when you see it. Leave the batteries charging over night and you're fine. It will take a coupple of charge/drain cycles for the celle to come to full life. If at all possible, you should drain them all the way down before recharging the firs toqw-three cycles.

 

Good luck and have fun traveling.

 

- Carl

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I'd say id you see "Summilux-M 1:1.4/50" without the ASPH it is the older version. Check the box, the item numbers for the ASPH model are 11891 (black) and 11892 (silver). The previous model had numbers 11868 (black) and 11856 (silver).

 

- Carl

A 24mm elmarit.

 

- Carl

I'm just seeing the first results of the 25/4 I purchased from Steven a coupple of weeks ago. First impresion is that it is easier to controll than my 21/4. Like the weight and haven't got a problem with the focusing not being couppled. Feels like a good lens to use in the summer time when there is enough light to keep the aperture at 5.6/8 and leave the focus at 3 meters. That gives me dof from aprox 1.5 to infinity.

 

- Carl

When at first you don't succed....<br><br>

<center><img src="http://www.leica-camera.com/discus_e/messages/11/124524.jpg"><br><br>

<center><img src="http://mk23.image.pbase.com/u13/digilux2/large/41648127.acending1024x800.jpg"><br>MOMA NYC<br></center>