carl_bretteville

<p>I mostly shoot Tri-X. I rate it at ISO320 and develop in HC-110 Dl B for 6.5 minutes at 20C. I've also developed rolls shot at ISO400 the same way without noticing any significant difference. Its just 1/3 of a stop less light anyway. I find the negs easy to work with in my hybrid workflow.<br /> Carl</p>

Can't use it without an adapter, it doesn't have it isn't threaded. It ships with 39mm and 46mm rings and 49s are optional extras. Yes, there are two of those, one for the 135/3.5 APO + 75/2 and one for the rest. Not sure what the difference is, but this is what Leica lists in their product literature.

It is because the RF cam that protrudes too deeply into the M8. See this thread on LUF: http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m8-forum/19321-1963-summicron-50-2-dr-wont.html

 

- Carl

Neal,

It isn't that long on the M8, at least it is a lot better than on the D2. That said I've been using my Metz' and SF24D on Auto rather than GNC. With the SCA module the cameras still communicate all it can of parameters to the flash, but you use the flash's own sensor to measure the light. Surprisingly good results with all three of my flashes on both cameras.

 

- Carl

Neal,

Here is what metz lists. One thing I've heard about the later 54s is that the +/- EV on the flash does not work in GNC (M-TTL) mode. It does work in M and A modes. If you check over on LUF there are several threads that cover the use of the 54 and the M8 here is one:

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/digital-forum/14467-m8-metz-54mz-4i-sca-3502m4.html?highlight=M8+Metz+54mz

 

- Carl<div></div>

It works in auto, manual and gnc modes if you have an SCA3502 mod 4 foot.

The only 135 code that has been published is the one for the 135/2.8 as Leica believes the 135 without goggles can't reliably be used on an M8. Not sure we all agree, but that doesn't really matter.... See Carsten Whimster's page http://www.digital-leica.com/lens_codes/

 

- Carl

I use the same hood as Michael. Works for me.

Roby,

Here is a little lens p**n and some images shot with the 90/4-C including two close ups. These were all shot with the 90 on my old M-4P, but I've used it on the M6 and M8s as well. No problems.

 

http://www.pbase.com/digilux2/90mm_elmarc

 

- Carl

Get a card reader as Doug said. You will not regret it. Enjoy your camera. Mine has served me well in the three years I've had it.

You delete the file. It dosen't touch the shutter.

I do this too. The only thing I do differentky with my M8 and M6s is that on the M8 I attach and detach the lens while its extended and locked. I just feels a little cramped in there on the M8. Its a great little lens.

To get links and images in the ads you can do something like this:

The first point is to write the text as html. There is a drop down box below the full text entitled "The full ad above is". By default this is set to "Plain text". By changing this to "html" you can do a lot more.

 

Note that in the syntax descriptions and examples I've substituted '<' and '>' with '[' and ']' to avoid confusing the board software.

 

To create a link: use this syntax (substituting <> with []):

 

[a href=actual link goes here]Text that is clickable[/a]

 

Example:

[a href= http://www.photo.net/bboard/forum?topic_id=1548]PNet Leica and Rangefinder's forum[/a]

 

This will result in text in the ad that looks like this and is clickable: PNet Leica and Rangefinder's forum

 

To get an image in the ad, upload it to somewhere like your PNet galery and use this syntax:

 

src=full link to the image goes here

 

Example:

src=http://i.pbase.com/u38/world_images/100/24960566.nolgflag.jpg

 

The size isn't restricted to the 511x511 of the forum as you're only referencing the image, you'll have seen this trick used in posts where the images are larger that the keyhole sized ones we normally are allowed.

 

Formatting in html is a little different. You have to physically place line breaks where you want them by adding [br] to the end of the line. To get an empty line use [br][br] (remember to use "<>").

 

There are all sorts of tricks you can use to fancify your ads, but this should get you started. Try the examples out and you'll see what I mean (includng the Norwegian flag linked in from PBase). Just create an ad and go as far as the preview.

 

Cheers,

 

- Carl

I beleive you can have the M4-2 modified to add the 75mm lines.

I've used an SF24 on my M6, no sweat. Just set the correct parameters using the buttons and switch the flash to 'A' mode.

So far I've used a 2GB Sandisk Extreme III, a 2GB Crucial 133x and a 1GB Sandisk Ultra II cards. No issues at all. FW is 1.092. Be aware that there are a lot of pirated Sandisk cards on the market. Extreme IIIs seem to one of the more prevalent ones. Buy from a reputable dealer.

Depends on what 'warm' means. A few degrees above 20c/68F primarily speeds things up. As long as you stay above +/-5 minutes development time it should be OK and have a good chance of evenly developed negatives. I often use 21 or 22C as thats the ambient temperature in the room I use for neg development. On the other hand if warm means a lot warmer you can end up with the film being cooked and emulsion crackled or separating from the film base.

Try HP5+ in 510-Pyro

Could be as simple as that it uses the TMP or TEMP environment variables to find the OS' temporary directory. This is by defailt set to a subdirectory of "windows". Create a new directory on another drive and point TMP and TEMP to this one (right click on my computer and select "properties", click on the "advanced" tab then on the "Environment variables" button.

I have a two reel Kindermann that I'm really happy with. No leaks at all. I then purchased a four reel Samigon as I couldn't find a Kinderman. The lid leaks like a siv. Very diapointing. What I then tried was the Kinderman lid on the Samigon steel tube, works like a charm. So the tip is buy a Samigon tank and a Kindermann spare lid. The two reel tank+extra lid combo is actually cheaper than teh Kindermann two reeler.

"*It seems that B&H Photo sells Hewes-brand reels under the name <i>"Tundra." When the box is opened, the reels within are identical to the British-made Hewes ones, even bearing the company name "Hewes" at their centers."</i><br><br>

 

 

Just a word of caution. B&H have three different Tundra SS reels for 35mm film. Judging from the illustrations the "professional" $24.95 looks like a Hewes. The other two (deluxe and std.) do not.

I'm a nub when it comes to pyro, so when the HP5+ negs on the first roll looked more or less like the same as they would when comming out of XTol I emailed Jay and asked it I'd washed the stain out. Here is my question and his answer.<br><br>

<i>Jay, one question: I see references to "stain" all over in regards to pyro. I know 510-pyro is a staining developer. My question is: should I have seen a discoloration of the film base or the 'colour' of the B&W negs?</i>

<br><br>

<i>Hi Carl. The stain is hard to see at first, because 510-Pyro is very clean working and produces almost no base fog, and since the stain is proportional, there is little in the low values, where it would be most visible. If you compare your 510-Pyro neg to one developed in a non-staining developer, on a light table, you'll see the stain. Once you become accustomed to the stain, you'll recognize it immediately.</i><br><br>- Carl

I'm really happy with 510-Pyro in general and for HP5+ in particular. Jay DeFehr did a great job in formulating it. His blog is here http://pyrostains.blogspot.com/index.html

 

- Carl<div></div>

Ed,

I believe thats a 'no'. The M6J elmar has it's own product code and was limited ed. If you really want a focusing tab on a current 50 elmar check with Shrry or DAG Camera if one can be retrofitted.

 

- Carl

Use Firefox or Opera.