gene_e._mccluney

Or you could just tape the lid on with cheap vinyl plastic electrical tape, or cut down duct

tape, etc. The first two steps....developer and bleach could be done, then the tape

removed for washing, or your could just fill and dump wash water several times for the

time duration of the wash cycle, then go into the fix, then remove the tape. Stainless steel

tanks and lids are prone to a little leaking, it has never bothered me.

I too would be interested in information on printing on canvas...with my Epson

Ultrachrome 9600 printer.

You should be able to purchase a used Betterlight scanning back for $2000 to $5000

dollars depending on model. They produce superior results to DSLR's because they are

not a Bayer pattern imager, rather they are a true full RGB with no color interpolation. The

quality of the pixels is better. Betterlight has a mailing listserv that owners and interested

parties can list for sale and wants of used euipment.

In addition to the scanning back and control box, you MUST use an IR absorbing filter on

the lens, these come in two varities. One for tungsten and one for daylight. Best to get

the pair. These are shipped with the backs when new, but you need to make sure you get

them if you are purchasing used. Older scanning backs couple to your computer with a

SCSI connection. Recent computers do not allow SCSI without a separate SCSI card in the

computer, however the output from the back/box can be converted to FireWire with a

Ratoc SCSi to Firewire converter. Newest software is available as a download from the

Betterlight website.

I am surprised that a drug store still stocks slide film at all. No slide film sold in mass

market stores around here. I have to mail-order all I use.

It looks like you desaturated the Velvia slides, and I wonder why you chose a highly-

saturated film to then reduce the color saturation on? It would not have been my first

choice for use in such lighting situations. The proof of the pudding would be in making

large prints from 4000dpi scans. Your slides should hold up much better than the digital,

although your digital images seem to have better tonal values on the low-res images

posted to your pbase page. I would stick with film, but not necessarily Velvia for high-

contrast lighting situations. I would probably use Provia.

I have been using some 8x10 plus-x I purchased fresh in 1980. The sealed boxes are just

fine, no base fog. I tried a couple of sheets from an opened box and it wasn't as good.

McCluney Photo

I heard that the retro-100 and retro-400 films were cut and spooled by Maco from master

rolls intended for 35mm film production, rather than roll-film production.

McCluney Photo

I certainly agree with the recommendaton of HC-110 dilution b. I am shooting some

8x10 Plus-X that I purchased in 1980, and I am getting zero background fog.

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Just FYI, there is NO scanner that allows you to use anything like Digital Ice to

automatically "clean up" b/w images. It is not just a Nikon issue. The Nikon line of

scanners is the best line available now of dedicated tabletop film scanners....unless

perhaps you want to spend 5 times the amount for an Imacon.

Is it possible that those that try to advise..."too hard, don't attempt" are remembering the

older processes that came before C-41 and E-6? They were harder and more prone to

failure until you learned the process.

McCluney Photo

I shoot a lot of Provia 100f. I process myself. I do not find that is is overall blue. In other

words, I do not find that it adds blue to colors other than blue. I do find that it renders

blue skies very blue, such as using a polarizing filter. I like this effect. I find that other

colors in the scene are quite accurate.

The simple answer is this: , Kodak C-41 fix and replenisher, and Kodak C-41 final rinse

and replenisher are used at different dilutions to make either the working solution or the

replenisher that is used in large tank or machine processing where the chemistry is almost

never changed out, rather "replenisher" is added for each sq. ft. of film processed to keep

the chemistry good.

Kodak C-41 developer replenisher is used to make C-41 developer with the addition of

developer starter (sold separately). It is used without developer starter to make

replenisher.

Kodak C-41 Bleach replenisher is also used with C-41 bleach starter to make C-41 bleach.

Again the starter is sold separately.

It used to be that Kodak sold C-41 developer (not replenisher) that when diluted with

water was ready to use. Low demand caused them to discontinue this, and now you have

to MAKE developer from replenisher and starter.

Since the developer replenisher and bleach replenisher are multi-part chemicals, it is

difficult to make a partial batch from the concentrates, but it can be done. You need

accurate graduates, you need to measure the full volume of each chemical part, note this

on a notepad, pour the concentrates back into their bottles, then on your notepad divide

by the quantity you want to make. If you have a kit to make 5 gallons, and you want to

make 1 gallon, you would divide by 5. If you want to make 1/2 gallon you would divide by

10, etc.

McCluney Photo

If you are shooting high quality raw or tif files, don't forget to do a batch conversion to

save as jpg's. Don't overwrite your original files. Many 1 hour type digital labs cannot

read tif files.

McCluney Photo

A 4X5 SHEET FILM HOLDER IS GENERIC. All 4x5 double sheet film holders are designed to

be used with ALL 4x5 cameras.

the magenta color of the film is just a dye that is put in the film in manufacturing to help

with reflection in the emulsion. an antireflection coating. This usually comes out in the

fixer and final wash. This magenta color has nothing to do with the choice of developer.

This will be seen on all T-max films.

McCluney Photo

MACCO has the marketing rights to use the Rollei name on film products. MACCO

sources these products from various manufacturers, such as Filmotec and Agfa Gevaert

(Belgium). The Rollei Retro films are actually made from master rolls purchased from Agfa

Germany after they closed, and are identical to APX-100 and APX-400. For these you can

use the published Agfa processing times for APX-100 and APX-400, however I am sure

processing instructions are packed with the film you order.

McCluney Photo

If a converter purchased master rolls not yet cut and perforated into 35mm, then the edge

numbers would not have been printed. It would be up to the converter who packages the

film to expose the frame numbers, etc. A lot of cheap color C-41 film is Ferrania. I side

with the previous posts regarding just purchasing b/w film in bulk rolls, either bargain

deals or short dated. Real b/w film makes the best b/w prints, or scans.

McCluney Photo

Panatomic-X, being a slow speed film, has a greater chance of being good past expiration

date than a faster film does. I would process it in a very clean working developer such as

HC-110, as this is a developer known for its low fog production, and full emulsion speed.

I am currently using a 50 sheet box of Plus-X 8x10 that expired in 1981. It was sealed

until I opened it last week. The results are just fine, developing in HC-110 Dil. B.

McCluney Photo

I have one of those. I would just use a cable release and manually do the long exposure of

1/2 or 1 second. One thousand and one. You can count a second quite well.

All color films have vastly improved stability when compared to the films of 20 years ago.

Some of this is reformulated emulsions, other factors are tweaks to the processing. I

would go with dark stored Ektachrome myself. (or Fuji E-6 slide film)

If it is in sealed packs, and is loose and free inside, like table salt, then it should be fine. I

have routinely mixed up D-76 from sealed bags that are many years old.

NO color film holds up anywhere near where b/w film can. Color film is comprised of

several layers of emulsion, one for each color, plus filtration layers..they don't age at

exactly the same rate, therefore the color goes off.