conrad_hoffman

Not sure how available big photoflash caps are these days, as demand is near zero.

I've never been able to use the words "beautiful" and "dye clouds" in the same sentence. Gimme nice sharp silver grains. :D

I'm a dumpster diver. I grab a non-Li power tool pack from the recycle bin at the dump. Usually a couple cells have shorted out with whiskers and the rest charge up fine. If you want new, there are still good ones made. Maybe here- https://www.batterystore.com/nickel-cadmium-cells/

My guess is if you removed the wrapper and saw one cell, it's one cell. I've never seen multiple cells in a single metal can. Shouldn't be much trouble to replace them with like.

No troubles with my Windows system here so I doubt there was an update problem. Do you know the port works? Can you try a different computer? Did you accidently put a CFexpress card in? Mine doesn't show up if I do that.

I don't know anything about the Series E wide angle(s) but note that some of the Series E lenses are really very good. The 100mm comes to mind.

I really like the 20mm f/2.8 AiS but they tend to sell for quite a lot in good condition. There are, however, a bunch of 20s to consider. I have 35, 28 & 24, but when I want wide, the 20 is invariably what I go for. Same thing with my digital camera zoom; it goes to 24 and I'm always up against the stop wishing for a few more mm.

Hey, we're back. Happens every now and then and takes a couple days to sort out. Keep moving, nothing to see here.

I'm betting they last longer than that.

Ah, forgot that the voltage was that high. I'm a measurement snob, so I'd probably measure the leakage of those caps just to be sure. I'd also reform them at their full voltage rating for a good few hours before installation. That would insure the leakage was as low as possible from the get-go. It would stay low with the voltage of the battery present. I don't know where the major brands of caps are made, but they're mostly Japanese companies and that's all I use. If it's a brand that hasn't been around for a couple decades I want nothing to do with it.

I doubt 6 shots will stress anything, but more smaller caps should dissipate heat better. There are polymer and hybrid caps with much higher current ratings, but they have much higher leakage as well, so not a good choice for this. You can get low leakage caps (UKL) but most standard caps will beat their leakage specs by a wide margin once they sit under voltage for a while. Regardless, it's not something I'd leave batteries in for long periods of non-use. If it would work, I'd also use Eneloop rechargables (from B&H of course) to avoid chemical leakage damage.

That would be my guess, though I haven't messed color paper in a long time.

Paper usually curls towards the emulsion. Unless it doesn't. Check a corner with a damp finger and see if it sticks? Make a test strip?

I run into this with old audio equipment all the time. The new filter caps are so small you often have to fashion new clamps or make spacer rings so they don't fall out! That "constant", and I use the term loosely, has certainly changed. By whatever magic, they've increased the surface area dramatically. I have a theory about values. They can control the final value so well now that they usually make the parts near the lower tolerance limit. That way they save money on high purity aluminum foil. Almost all filter caps I buy come in a bit lower than the stated value.

From the Murphy's Law Appendix- All temporary fixes become permanent. If sufficiently ugly, they persist until the end of time.

Depends on what you put it on. I'd think it would foul some followers and possibly wreck 'em, but I don't know much about how far the ring on that vintage protrudes. Use with caution and be sure pressure isn't being applied to anything by the ring.

The only caps "meant for this purpose" that I can think of are photoflash caps designed to dump their energy quickly, but those are invariably rated at a higher voltage and not really the right choice. I'd just buy some 100 uF @ 50V commercial grade caps. Digikey shows about 100 types to choose from, under a buck a piece. You could special order some 80 uF 50V 600D parts, which are probably about what was in there, but they cost a fortune and won't work any better. Whatever you get, check the dimensions to be sure they fit!

Remember those rifle stock support/grips for telephoto lenses? Always figured it would be a big mistake to use one to photograph a president. I'm sure they'd shoot first and ask questions later.

BTW, the solenoid resistance is probably a good few ohms, which will keep current under control. It's not like you're shorting out the cap with a screwdriver. :D

Caps have gotten incredibly smaller, but I'm not sure those wouldn't work. It comes down to internal resistance and the ability to dissipate power. The newer caps probably have lower internal resistance. (I don't use the term ESR because it's measured at 100 kHz and probably isn't the right thing to look at.) They obviously have much less ability to dissipate heat, but how often do you fire the thing? You might think about putting five 10 uF parts in parallel because the surface area would be smaller. Also look into multi-layer ceramic caps. 50 uF should be easy to make up but remember that they lose a huge amount of value as the voltage goes up. Me? I'd install the new ones and see how it works. Not sure audio caps would be my first choice, better to look for a standard commercial grade part with a decent ripple rating and long life.

Doubt it. There don't seem to be that many active participants. My hobbies tend to rotate every few years. I was active many years ago and remember "the good old days." Then I didn't do much for a long time. Now I'm back again, but in all honesty it's no longer a site I'd pay for. No doubt the hobbies will rotate away again.

From the Wayback machine- The Leica Drum Shutter Tester. « SKGrimes

Ha! The info is on Photonet- Factory Testing Leica Shutters I think I remember seeing a DIY version, maybe the Grimes site.

I can't remember where I saw it, but there was an article about how to build your own shutter tester that I think was based on a Leica device. It consisted of some sort of spinning drum, and let you see how the shutter performed across the entire frame. I'll look around and see if I have a copy as I haven't found it online. Hint for the youngsters- not everything interesting is available online!

I don't know anything about the MP but if it's a standard focal plane shutter, it probably has shutter brakes and various tension adjustments. You need an experienced Leica service person to sort it out. I had a Nikon F with a similar problem and sold it because repair parts were no longer available. Shouldn't be an issue with the MP.