parasko_p

Hi all,

I borrowed a friend's Nikon D60. Great little camera.

Problem:

1. The LCD screen has a square grey box appearing which indicates:

Act. D-Light: AUTO

Retouch

How do I get rid of this screen and message so that the image appears as normal on the LCD screen.

I have turned off all options related to D-Light but this still appears on the screen.

Can anybody advise? I know it is something really simple but it is driving me crazy!

Thanks.

Hi all,

Any flash recommendations for the EOS 3000 film camera?

The flash will be used soley to photograph the kiddies growing up. I have been recommended the 430EZ or the

380EX. Does anyone know about either of these flash units with this camera?

The ability to bounce would be good as would balance of size/weight with body. Previously used an old 200 series

flash which was not very powerful/useful.

What other flash features should I be looking for?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks.

Hi all,

I shot a great image last week using slide film (Provia 100) but in my haste I didn't check the meter and the image is

underexposed by at least 1 stop, maybe more.

Now that I have scanned the image, the shadows are dense and detail is not really distinguishable. If I try to

manipulate in CS3 to obtain some shadow detail, the highlights blow completely.

Any ideas on how underexposed images can be salvaged in CS3 or any advice from those who have had similar

problems?

Thanks.

Thanks for your comments.

I should've mentioned that my intended purpose is DISCRETE low light street photography..hence, no tripod, larger format etc. Simply one lens (usually a 35mm Leica "Cron at f2) on an M7.

Ron, could you please clarify your statement below as it interests me:

<<Here's a technique to try for low light scenes. Expose normally down to 7 foot candles of incident illumination. As it gets dimmer, don't provide additional exposure. Let the camera underexpose the scene. You will find that the scene will be dark, but roughly similar to what you saw.>>

Are you saying that you should set the camera to a handholdable shutter speed, regardless of whether the meter indicates the shot will be underexposed? And then do you compensate for this when processing?

Thanks to you all for your responses.

Derek, thanks for the link to Kathleen Laraia McLaughlin. What a great portfolio she has. A true advertisement for the Mamiya 7 and its capabilities using both B&W and Colour film.

However, her photographs are more portrait-like or shots where the subject is posing/ aware of her shooting. My photos tend to be more discrete where the person(s) is not always aware...so it requires very fast shooting, although planning is involved in the shot.

Based on all comments, I will purchase an M7 somewhere down the track, but for the moment the Leica gear suits my purpose...so I will have to live with smaller prints.

Cheers.

Hi all,

I'm seeking a colour film which can be rated at ISO 1600 (and preferably 3200) with acceptable grain and colour, for

low light street shooting.

I generally use Provia 400x slide film, rated at 400, which scans very well and is not very grainy. I shot this film at iso

1600 on two occasions. On the first, the lab push processed 2 stops and the result was very grainy and not to my

liking. On the second occasion, the lab only push processed 1 stop and the results were not bad...definitely

acceptable....but I'm concerned this was a one-off.

So is there a colour film which can be rated at ISO 1600/3200 with acceptable grain for 11x14 prints and which

scans well?

FWIW, I am using 35mm Leica gear and a Nikon 4000 and 9000 for scanning.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks to you all for your comments so far. I'm not sure I understand one comment though:

<<With the shallow depth of focus zone focus is not really practical>>

I'm not sure I understand the difference between depth of focus as opposed to depth of field (which I do understand).

I don't zone focus with the Leica and pre-focus/ plan my shots.

Anyway, judging from most images I have seen, not many people are using the Mamiya 7 the way a Leica can be used for discrete street shooting; I'm assuming due to the camera's physical size alone. A Leica tends to be less intimidating when photographing people, even when up close.

Hi all,

I recently purchased a Leica M7 system and it is to date the best camera/equipment I have ever owned...both in

terms of the camera's reliability as well as the lens optics.

I am using it strictly for street photography..for personal work and most times I use it as a p&s to capture the

moment quickly, with the exposure so reliable I really don't check the meter before I click (and I shoot slides!).

My questions:

1. Would I achieve the same as above via a Mamiya 7II kit?

That is, is the Mamiya a street shooting camera which can be used fast to capture a moment (I don't mean to

capture motion but instead a 'responsive' system)?

2. Is it too large to be discrete for street photos involving people? I know the shutter is more silent than the Leica.

3. Is the camera as easy (or difficult) to focus as a Leica (.72 version) and are the viewfinder framelines accurate with

the 65mm and 50mm lenses?

So, basically, I want everything the Leica offers me but a 6x7 neg.

Any advice/ comments appreciated. I would be interested in hearing from people who have used both systems who

can comment on the differences.

Thanks for your comments to date.

Mike, can I ask what developer and times you used for your FP4 shot? I do like the tonal rendition.

Hi all,

I love the tones of Ilford Pan F+ 50. I have seen this film in controlled

studio lighting situations as well as for some architectural shots and love it.

However, I wish to use this film for street photography for a low grain, smooth

tone effect and I hear that highlights are easily blown in contrasty sunny

situations.

Does anyone know how I can develop this film for good shadow rendition whilst

maintaing highlights in such contrasty, variable lighting situations?

I will be using Neopan 1600 plus D76 1:1 for low light photography and I am

hoping to maintain the same developer for all my films, as I am really just

recommencing B&W processing after a long period of absence.

Would another low speed film, such as Acros 100, Delta 100 or FP4+ be a better

option for my goals above with D76?

FWIW, I am shooting with 35mm (Leica) gear and my aim was to make 10x15"

(11x14") sized prints.

Any advice appreciated.

Cheers.

<<you seem to have the Leica bug>>

I think you are right Marek...now if only I can decide between the M7 and M8.

Thanks for all your comments. If anybody else wishes to add anything else, please do so.

Cheers.

Great advice you guys! I really appreciate it.

I have decided to buy just one body and one lens to start with (very sensible, thanks!) I realise that I do also want AE so I am thinking of the M7 (.72) as the most versatile option. But what about the M8?

Which would be the better option:

1. New M7 kit (with 50mm Summicron).

2. Used M7 +35mm Summicron.

3. Used M8 with either the 35 or 50 Summicron.

Any further advice appreciated.

Cheers,

Parasko.

Hi all,

I owned an Xpan briefly about a year ago and loved the RF way of viewing though

not the pano format. I knew then that the next step in the RF direction would

be to buy a Leica M..so here I am, currently w/out a camera and about to take

the plunge.

To help with my decision, my considerations are as follows:

1. I wear glasses.

2. I am eventually considering a two lens, two body kit.

3. My lens preferences are the latest Summicrons, 28mm, 35mm or 50mm. I do not

like external viewfinders and scarcely shoot longer than 50mm.

So my options based on my budget and my questions are:

1. A new M7+50mm kit and then a Bessa R4 with a 28mm lens.

If I take this road, should I be instead looking at a used M7 with .85

viewfinder for the 50mm? Does the 28mm Summicron block the framelines of the

Bessa? The lens blocking the viewfinder really annoyed me on the Xpan.

2. 2 x M6. One .85 with the 50mm and then either a .72 or .58 for the 35mm or

28mm. How much does the lack of AE slow down the process for street shooting?

Is the 35mm too close to the 50mm when using a RF for this type of photography?

Does anyone recommend upgrading M6 viewfinders to the MP version? Cost?

3. Just stick with one body+lens: buy the M7 kit and a 35mm and sell the least

preferred lens.

Apologies for the essay and many questions but I don't have a chance to try

before I buy. I was considering the M8 but by the time I am comfortable with RF

shooting, I'm sure an M9 will have appeared.

Cheers,

Parasko.

Thanks to you all for your comments so far, and for the valuable link.

I'm leaning towards the 40D, (possibly two of them), as it is newer technology. I really want a FF camera and loved the FF viewfinder of my previous 1ds Mk1 but the edges were so soft on all L lenses!! I'm assuming the same issue with the 5D.

Does the 17-55mm lens become approx. 28-80 on a 1.6crop camera?

How does this compare to the 16-35mm 2.8 or 17-40mm L lenses?

Hi all,

I am receiving offers to shoot event photography and (possibly) weddings as an

assistant but I do not currently own any equipment (I used to own the Canon

1ds Mk1) except for 4x5 gear.

So what do I buy? Do I wait for the Nikon d300 to arrive? 40D? 5D? Which

lenses? Flash?

I know this is very general but if any of you could share what

camera+lens+flash combo you are using for events/weddings, it might help me to

get on the right track. This purchase would be solely to shoot this type of

photography.

I am considering a 2 body setup, so I could probably afford 2x40D or (maybe)

5D+40D, depending on which lenses I purchase.

Any advice?

I've also contemplated Harry's dilemma.

The only problem with buying used Leica lenses for the non-Leicaphiles is being bamboozled by all those serial no's in choosing the right equipment used?

Which Summicron in the 35mm and 50mm do you buy if used, based on serial no's? Which ones are the lemons?

Furthermore, how do you know if the M7 is the newer version with better viewfinder if buying used? There are so many versions of the M6 so how do you identify the M6 classic, as recommended above.

...sorry to steal your post Harry but you may also need to know these things....

Hi everyone,

Apologies for the delay in getting back to you all...

Well, first of all thank you ever so much for all your responses! Wow! Is this forum special or what!!!

Now to the news...well, after so much advice not to go ahead with the shoot, and so much hesitation on my part, I phoned the photographer and declined his offer..phew!! (wipe the brow!)..that was a very stressful 36 hours!

He was ok with my decision in the end and he admitted that it probably would not have done his reputation any good had I screwed up...but still his attitude was a bit too relaxed for my liking! He ended the phone conversation by indicating there may be some work available as an 'assistant' in a couple of weeks and he'll keep me in mind. I'm not sure how genuine he was about this but to be honest, he probably isn't the kind of person I would want to work for (or to learn from).

But from the bad comes the good...I have read so many links you people have provided that I now feel so much more confident to at least assist in photographing a wedding.

Everybody's comments have really motivated me and provided alot of direction about do's and don't's.

So once again, thank you all SO MUCH!

If anybody in Sydney (Oz) needs an assistant, please email me: parasko@hotmail.com

Cheers.

thanks everyone for your quick responses...great advice so far..

...good idea re: the batteries..thanks William (thanks for your lengthy response also!).

I should clarify that I am not completely new to photography (but no way am I a pro!). In fact I recently sold my Canon gear in order to learn 4x5 exclusively. I have never undertaken any paid work for photography so everything has been personal work to date.

I thought about using the flu excuse, but this may be a way in to the industry for me...albeit the very steep learning way in..I just don't want to ruin things for the couple on the day.

I have yet to discuss all the ins and outs with the photographer (tomorrow) so hopefully I'll have a better idea then of what I'm up against (in terms of lighting for the church and reception hall etc).

Any other comments would be sincerely appreciated.

Thanks.

Hi all,

A photographer has asked me at short notice to shoot a wedding. I agreed

thinking I would be assisting him but he wants me to go it alone.

I've never shot a wedding before...ever!! Not even assisting!!

Ok so I need help asap...PLEASE...I am stressed out of my skin about this.

Equipment first...I don't even have my own equipment so I am going to request

the following from him:

1. 2 bodies

2. a 24-70 and a 70-200 mm lens

3. Flash guns for both lenses.

Is there anything else I will need? I want to keep this as simple as possible.

I thought about a tripod but it will just get in the way.

How many gigs for the CF cards? I'm assuming I will be shooting everything in

RAW?

OK, secondly:

Are there any quick links on the web for standard wedding shots. You know,

there must be at least a dozen or so standard shots that everybody takes. If I

can at least nail these shots, I will wing the rest.

Any ideas?

Any advice at all you can give me would be MUCH APPRECIATED!!!

Cheers.

Thanks for all your help with this James.

You're the only one who has responded but you've provided heaps of relevant information.

I appreciate it.

Cheers.

Hi James,

Thanks for your help. I will look into the voltage transformer for the electrical conversion. Looks like the Cpp-2 is the way to go.

Re: the E6 process, is there much of a difference between the 3 and 6 step process? Is one better than the other?