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<p>I would pose this question on the Pocketwizard Support forum.......:) ?</p>

<p>Fall colors reflected in a pond at <a href="http://www.rosesberryfarm.com">Rose's Berry Farm</a> in South Glastonbury, CT. Canon 40D, ISO 200, F8,1/100th, Canon 70-200 2.8.</p><div></div>

<p>I would agree IF you don't have a flash, get a Canon 430Ex or 580 EX/EX II flash FIRST and see if your indoor results don't improve a lot. You can use a flash with whatever camera you decide to upgrade to.<br>

Just curious, what didn't you like about the 7D? The 60D gets mixed results so I would steer away from that one.</p>

<p>I would agree IF you don't have a flash, get a Canon 430Ex or 580 EX/EX II flash FIRST and see if your indoor results don't improve a lot. You can use a flash with whatever camera you decide to upgrade to.<br>

Just curious, what didn't you like about the 7D? The 60D gets mixed results so I would steer away from that one.</p>

<p>1. Re-boot you computer<br>

2. Do you have multiple catalogs? If so try opening it with another one.<br>

3. When/IF you get it working, Optimize your catalog and back it up if you havent already.<br>

4. If all these "fail", copy your catalog backup files to a location you know (make sure they arent in the LR folders (I tend to backup the LRCAT files to the same directory as the photos).....<br>

5. Re-install LR3 and point it to your "old" catalog file(s)..........<br>

Good Luck!</p>

<p>Very nice Alex, but BABY does not end in "ie" :)</p>

<p>1. Read the instructions for setup in your Epson brochure/manual<br>

2. Assuming you print from Photoshop/Elements/Lightroom, when you go to Print, there is a Color Management selection where you can direct it to point to the ICC profile</p>

<p>Here is a <a href="

tutorial</a> on youtube, he calls the ICC profiles, Color Profiles at the end of the video</p>

<p>Just look at the magcloud.com website, they list all the details and have templates for using different software to compose the magazine, then you output to PDF and upload. I am working on a project that I will publish using this, looks great and very reasonable.</p>

<p>Check the SORT option, make sure you use Capture Time etc.......in Library View or Filters</p>

<p>Aside from using LR Pre-sets (and there are many good ones) there is a basic examining of the original photo that will drive the type of adjustments you should make to preserve contrast and proper tonality of the original.<br>

Here is a <a href="http://aceeventphoto.com/AC0409_RAW_Black&White_Salwen.pdf">great article from After Capture</a> by Ethan Salwen on RAW to B&W conversion.<br>

Enjoy!</p>

<p>I would go with a 70-200 F4 to give you more reach, a very versatile lens and great for sports, events and portraits.</p>

<p>Ok, I would then contact FUJI Support directly then, Costco provides ICC profiles on their Photo website, you may try them if there is one near you. Good luck!</p>

<p>I did a search and came across <a href="http://www.elementsvillage.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-51874.html">this discussion </a>- you may not need ICC profiles, if you have a calibrated monitor, output as SRGB and turn OFF color correction to your lab.</p>

 

<p>They are brand specific, don't be TOO lazy here, look at the Pocketwizard website! :)</p>

<p>Hi Faith - give us some more information, what camera do you use, what type of shooting do you do and what is your budget? The Tamron seems like a good value, but I do not have hands on experience with that lens. Here are some reviews of Canon and several 3rd party lenses from <a href="http://bobatkins.com/photography/reviews/tamron_28_75.html">Bob Atkins.</a> This link is specifically to this Tamron lens and he gives it a very good review comparing it to two mid-priced Canon lenses.</p>

 

<p>You also may want to use a battery pack if you are doing a long shoot with several hundred exposures.....I got a nice one for $20.00 that takes 8AA (Eneloop) rechargables and connects directly to the 580Ex/EXII.....<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044QL8I4">.you can see it here</a></p>

<p>Thought I would share these 5 great tips from noted Wedding shooter, David Ziser - great stuff!<br>

http://digitalprotalk.blogspot.com/2011/07/5-flashcamera-techniques-to-improve.html<br>

I was not aware that HSS (High Speed Synch) works only/best with AV mode....</p>

<p>You can also get a quote from <a href="http://www.precisioncamera.com/">Precision Camera</a> and Video in CT.</p>

<p>Scott has it nailed, Servo mode is for FAST moving objects, like sports. Use One Shot and increase your DOF and/or move farther away from your subjects, you will still get nice bokeh (if we assume thats why you like to shoot wide open).</p>

<p>Not sure what plug-in you are using, there is one from <a href="http://regex.info/blog/lightroom-goodies/facebook">Jeffrey Fried</a>l here that works well</p>

<p>Watch your backgrounds, unless you are shooting at a wide open (small) aperture, so you don't get junk in the backgrounds on wider shots............</p>

<p>Why not review <a href="http://www.qtm.com/?option=com_wrapper&view=wrapper&Itemid=174">Quantum's website </a>and see what they have to say? Looks like the primary difference is power, the X5d has more, and uses a QPAQ power pack vs the Turbo. I have not used these products, but many pros (including David Ziser, noted Wedding Photog) do for their additional power over a Speedlight.</p>

<p>Maybe heat it up a little in the sun, or use a hairdryer, maybe fittings will expand and allow it to release? Lightly tap with a rubber mallet.....</p>

<p>Looks okay to me (????) - have your eyes checked perhaps :).....to me the White Balance looks a little off, but other than that looks fine.</p>

<p>If you do more indoor event work than portraits get the Sigma, if not, a 2nd flash sounds like a good move.</p>