acedigital

<p>Just to make sure.......are you cropping the photo(s) in Lightroom Develop Module to 4x6 size BEFORE exporting?<br>

You want to make sure you have the proper aspect ratio (use the drop downs in the Crop tool settings) and YOU are controlling what is cropped, not LR on the Export step.<br>

Then just Export - you do not need to choose Re-size/crop to a dimension in the Export, leave that box unchecked, see if that helps. Good luck!</p>

<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Portrait-Photography-Business-Style/dp/1600593356/ref=sr_1_11?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1355865319&sr=1-11&keywords=portrait+photography">Steve Sint</a> has an excellent book out, as well as <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Monte-Zuckers-Portrait-Photography-Handbook/dp/1584282134/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1355867749&sr=1-1&keywords=monte+zucker">Monte Zucker </a>and this compilation from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Best-Portrait-Photography-Techniques-Images/dp/1584282231/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1355867179&sr=1-3&keywords=monte+zucker">Bill Hurter.</a><br>

I have the Steve Sint book and it is very good.</p>

<p>While I do think they have gone too far, this was a pretty funny take on it!</p>

<p>You can set up a pre-set to rename your files with various variables in LR on import. I typically leave the date (mmddyy), custom text (name of shoot or location) , and then the orig file number and extension (cr2).<br>

You can also do this when exporting to another format (ie jpeg) as part of the output dialog and also save THAT as an Export preset. Very useful indeed!</p>

Lightroom allows for Snapshots in the Dev module, so you can save multiple point in time edits

with one raw file. If you don't use PS a lot, I see no need to save to Tiff......

<p>I would probably use the 5DII with the 24-70 for wide stuff (if you are close to the ring) and the 7D with the 70-200 zoom to get close ups. I would check out the venue ahead of time to see what the lighting conditions are, make sure you get your ISO high enough to get a fast shutter speed.<br>

As for flash, you may or may not need it if the lighting is good. If this is not in some arena, just a dingy old gym, I bet you will need the flash, try and bounce it if you can. ask/get permission with regards to use of flash, if this is a regular boxing venue, they may have posted rules regarding photography.<br>

If you have not shot sports before, you need at least 1/250th of a second (over 1/500th is better) to stop action.<br>

Ask if you need a Media Credential to get in/close enough to shoot the fight.<br>

I will stop here, as I have never shot a boxing match (have done HS wrestling), and there may be other tips from experienced boxing shooters here. Also check out <a href="http://www.sportsshooter.com/">SportsShooters.com</a></p>

<p>Have you checked the Print Management settings in Photoshop? The whole idea here is to get what you see on the monitor on the print also....so once it is calibrated , DON'T CHANGE IT!<br>

Right? So, THEN, once you get the photo on screen looking like what you want to print, then you print and if all is calibrated correctly, you should have a match.<br>

The calibration device is setting the screen to display properly in the room lighting that you have.<br>

Perhaps that is the issue? Good Luck</p>

<p>Here is an overview and some <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclorama_(theater)">lighting tips.</a>........</p>

<p>I would use Adobe Lightroom which will let you :<br>

1. Edit/update the EXIF info - date etc<br>

2. Add Keywords for sorting/finding<br>

3. Create virtual "Collections" based on whatever criteria (in the metadata) or manual selection <br>

4. Produce output for print, web or books (with the latest version LR4)</p>

<p>Sounds like a great project, good luck!</p>

<p>The 7D can take EFS (for crop bodies only) and regular Canon EF lenses. <a href="http://bobatkins.com/photography/reviews/best_canon_eos_lenses.html">Bob Atkins</a> has a very good Canon oriented website with lens reviews.....click the link</p>

 

<p>I would just make one up .........there is a risk in that if the color is off, it reflects badly on you when they show their friends/family.<br>

You may want to consider keeping control of that process at least as an option.<br>

Get some samples made from your local Walgreens/Costco/Sams etc......and some from a color corrected pro lab (MPIX, WHCC etc) and show them the difference.<br>

Costco can do a good job if you use their ICC Profiles for your local store, but then you are in control, hard for the customers to do this.</p>

 

<p>Wny not rent a newer Sony camera that can use your current lenses, that way you can try the newer technology at the same time. http://www.borrowlenses.com/category/sony_cameras</p>

<p>I like Mark's approach, "stage" some classes and or workouts where all the participants and instructors - have agreed to be photographed. Maybe offer them a free month (the Gym not you..) if they participate!</p>

<p>Check out<br>

www.keh.com they have a great used selection and are reliable</p>

<p>Find out how much they are willing to pay to use the photos. Call her and explain that you were not paid, and are happy to provide some photos, but you would expect some compensation and see what they say. I would not give them all the photos unless they pay you at least $xxx (fill in the blank/whatever it is worth to you). I would be careful of selling/giving away the photos of the "public figure" to anyone else without their permission, so if you do cut a deal with them ask if this is okay.</p>

<p>Eskil, by "huge glass extenders" do you mean the lens hoods? They are just there to reduce light flare/glare (and also help protect the glass if you think about it).....</p>

<p>I would ask the safari trip planner - a friend just went on one, and they actually got quite close to many Lions, Elephants and other game. She bought a Pentax (her camera brand) 55-300 and did quite well with that. </p>

<p>How about adding a <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=228165&Q=&is=GREY&A=details">teleconverter </a>to your lens? That could help in good lighting conditions.<br>

Click link to see B&H product.</p>

 

<p>Well you have to determine which exposure you are going to let be "in charge" - the ambient/background light from the window, or your room light (supplemented with fill or bounce flash). The best way to get both (and you came close) is to expose for the ambient (like you would outdoors, maybe underexpose a stop or two) and then fill in the foreground with flash. Using manual control is the easiest way to get what you want. Or you could just meter close to the wedding participants ignoring the background, which would then probably be underexposed. If your camera is in "M" mode, your flash in ETTL/ETL should balance it out with a little adjusting.</p>

<p>Awesome job Nick, who do you shoot for?</p>

<p>The only thing I would say is the 50D is not even close to the builds of the 5D AND 1D MKii, be prepared to be a little disappointed (maybe).</p>

<p>Any local printing company can handle this, Staples is another possible choice. Go to a local specialty print shop if you want to compare. Most places will do a sample for you before you buy in.</p>

<p>Steve, don't over think the batteries and CF cards. Unless you do video, you probably don't need the highest end CF cards. I have used OEM batteries (Sterlingtek) on Canon 20/40Ds with no issues. Welcome to the world of digital - oh and get a copy of Adobe Lightroom and a Scott Kelby Lightroom book to get you started and shoot RAW!</p>

<p>And they only get the "credit" when the referred couple/person books the wedding!</p>

<p>Umm....David B - your assumptions are wrong...Mr. Kirk is a professional photographer and prolific photography author. Did you even read any of his site/blog? <br>

http://kirktuck.com/site/FYI__Kirk.html</p>