acedigital
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Posts posted by acedigital
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<p>I will second the suggestion to review what auto-focus/tracking methods (Center point only, etc) are available on your camera and play with them. And what ISO/Shutter speeds are you using?<br>
You should be at 800+ ISO and over 1/500-1/2000th of a second for the sharpest shots , even outdoors. Shoot RAW to get the best results, especially if the lighting conditions are iffy.<br>
Using a monopod will help also, but will limit your flexibility somewhat.</p><div>
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<p>I would look into a photo specific rolling case that you can carry on..<a href="http://www.thinktankphoto.com/categories/rolling-camera-bags/airport-series.aspx">here</a> are some great examples from thinktankphoto</p>
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<p>Asaf, also what "mode" is the camera in - AF (Aperture Priority), Tn (Shutter Priority) , Auto/Program or Manual? You have to have a fast enough shutter speed to freeze action, part of that can be the focus point(s) you choose (or the camera chooses if Auto mode).</p>
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<p>Looks more like sensor dust to me..try cleaning your camera. I doubt it has anything to do with your flash.</p>
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<p>You can always store photos/videos on a portable external drive, that will give you some more flexibility.<br>
You might also want to consider a Mac Mini - a friend has one with added RAM and says it runs PS etc just fine.</p>
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<p>Hi Raj: You are asking a very good question.<br>
1. Here is an <a href="http://www.imaging-resource.com/ARTS/MONCAL/CALIBRATE.HTM">excellent article</a> on the basics...I am sure you can find some on here as well (Digital Darkroom)<br>
2. I use a Spyder 2 that does a good basic job, but just calibrates the monitor. For online work that is a good start. For printing, you want to get the ICC profile of the paper/printer you are printing to and use that in your output workflow in PS/Lightroom. For COSTCO, go to their website - go to the store locator on the Photo site and it will tell you what printer(s) they use and a link to the proper ICC profile. You "print" to a file (jpeg) using this profile to match your colors to the paper/printer combo, works well.<br>
Good Luck!</p>
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<p>You could try one of these "knock-offs", they get decent reviews<br>
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<p>Very nice, I enjoy your books Steve!</p>
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<p>Is there any reason you have not added a flash to this equation? Seems the easiest thing to do and not have to have extreme ISOs.<br>
It may limit you to action closer than you might desire, but you may also be able to bounce off the ceilling and light up the whole joint. Or add 2 strobes with triggers. This is often necessary in poorly lit gyms.<br>
Good luck! Get an external battery pack and use 8 sanyo Eneloop rechargable white batteries.</p>
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<p>I would contact the printer and ask them what their requirements are. They may be able to provide you an ICC profile to match your computer with their printer. You would use this in Lightroom or Photoshop as the output color profile and print to a file. Beautiful work!</p>
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<p>The D60 is over 10 years old, you might do better picking up a used 20D ($139) or 40D ($300-350) , much improved technology and better files. Just a suggestion. KEH.com would maybe even give you something for the D60 in a trade-in.</p>
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<p>I just got an Eye-Fi Pro card for my Canon 1DMkIIn. its very cool. Get the PROx2 version. You can get a CF card adapter if your camera does not take SD cards.<br>
You can shoot both RAW+Jpeg and just have it transfer the JPEG files, takes about 15 secs/file.<br>
I walk into the house from shooting outside and launch the Eye-FI app (on an iPad) and it starts tranferring. Camera must be ON (turn off Auto Power down). The card creates its own WI-FI network and so you can have it transfer the files to your laptop also.<br>
Tranferring RAW files thsi way would probably take way too long as Matt said.<br>
16GB cards are about $99, 8GB under $50, pretty neat. If you use Lightroom you can create a WATCH folder and have them auto-imported etc.</p>
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<p>I might lean more towards a GoPro.........<br>
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<p>If what you are referring to is the phrase/strategy "expose to the right" to capture the maximum range of stops when shooting in RAW mode. By exposing to "the right" (using your Histogram view on the rear LCD), this enables you to get all the shadow detail you might miss if you under-exposed the frame.</p>
<p>Then your photo can be edited using Lightroom, Camera RAW, etc to bring things back to a normal range while retaining these details. <br>
If you meant something else, I defer to others.</p>
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<p>As a frequent reader and commenter on PNet since about 2005, I always enjoyed Nadine's gentle manor, imparting her wisdom, but never in a "know-it-all" way. She obviously has been around from film days into the digital era, and thus made her observations and instruction all the more valuable and instructive to newer photographers.<br>
As someone mentioned earlier, she was/is a very special person to all of us in this corner of the internet and in the photography fraternity if you will. Thank you Nadine and may you rest in peace, your contributions made a difference to many and I am sure your customers and family loved you as well.<br>
Mark from New England</p>
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<p>Or you could just pull UP the white plastic bounce/reflector BUILT IN to many flashes ( like the one in the photo it seems!)..........To start, just put the flash in ETTL/TTL and your camera on Program mode and see how the results are. Check the settings the camera picks and adjust from there.</p>
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<p>I would also check to see if several unneeded programs are getting loaded at Startup. These can use memory, and by either "unloading" / unistalling (depending on what they are) you may get a little better performance.<br>
Start by checking your system tray (bottom right corner) for things like HP updaters, Quicktime, all non-essential programs. Right click on them and see if you can change the options to NOT load at startup.<br>
otherwise, try typing Start, Run, then type msconfig in the run box<br>
Then go to Startup tab and uncheck things you can recognize as programs you don't need.<br>
Adding RAM should help if you can also. Good Luck - Google your pc model or go to the Manuf website they should have directions on adding more Memory, or ask a geeky friend it is easy.</p>
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<p>Here are some used prices from Adorama, one of this site sponsors<br>
Canon Ef 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Is Usm is $339<br>
Canon 70-200 f/2.8 $999<br>
You could get by with the 70-300 for OUTDOOR use only.......<br>
save your pennies and go with the 70-200 2.8 if you can, it will make a huge difference and is also a great all around (heavy) portrait lens as well.<br>
Also get yourself a monopod, to stabilize your camera with a long lens</p>
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<p>Have you discussed a budget for the client? Do you have any idea what they are expecting to spend? You could start there if you wanted to charge a flat fee for the entire project.<br>
Otherwise, look out your window and only go out there when you know conditions are good, go early AM/late afternoon (Golden Hours) to try and get things looking their best.<br>
If this is not going to take many, many trips, just charge one fee for the photography time (based on your hourly rate) and then add in the prints and framing.<br>
Have fun!</p>
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<p>As a frequent traveler to Mexico, there are many safe areas to go to. Unfortunately, Mazatlan is one of the iffy areas, I would think twice, maybe go somewhere else. Cabo San Lucas and Puerto Vallarta are both great and safe.<br>
Here is the Nov 2012 Travel Advisory from the US Dept of State:<br>
"<strong>Sinaloa: Mazatlan</strong> <strong>is a major city/travel destination in Sinaloa -</strong><a href="http://travel.state.gov/pdf/MexicoMapforTSG.pdf">see map to identify its exact location</a>: You should defer non-essential travel to the state of Sinaloa except the city of Mazatlan where you should exercise caution particularly late at night and in the early morning. One of Mexico's most powerful TCOs is based in the state of Sinaloa. With the exception of Ciudad Juarez, since 2006 more homicides have occurred in the state's capital city of Culiacan than in any other city in Mexico. Travel off the toll roads in remote areas of Sinaloa is especially dangerous and should be avoided. We recommend that any other travel in Mazatlan be limited to Zona Dorada and the historic town center, as well as direct routes to/from these locations and the airport."<br>
<a href="http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/tw/tw_5815.html">This is the link for the report for all of Mexico</a><br>
Good Luck!</p>
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<p>I will recommend you get a copy of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-Photographs-Digital-Updated/dp/0817463003">Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson</a><br>
There are 3 main variables a camera/photographer has to deal with:<br>
1. ISO (used to be ASA/Film Speed) - determines the "light sensitivity" for that exposure<br>
2. Aperture/"F Stop" - the size of the opening in the lens (smaller number = larger aperture = more light / less depth of field)<br>
3. Shutter Speed - how long the camera's film/digital sensor is exposed to the light - also a faster shutter speed is used to stop action if desired<br>
You need to use your camera in "A" aperture priority or M Manual Mode to set it to a low F Stop which in turn will put the background objects more out of focus<br>
This oversimplifies what you are asking, but I hope it helps!<br>
Read about <a href="http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonynex5n/4">your camera</a> here!</p>
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<p>Jamie - WOW, great, fun video and excellent voices on the group, are you in the UK?</p><div></div>
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<p>I would get an additional flash before worrying about Pocket Wizards etc. Unless you do a lot of indoor sports, the f4 version of the 70-200 might work as others pointed out.<br>
It IS a great lens - I have the older non-IS version of the canon 70-200 2.8, bought it used for under $1000 7 yrs ago and it's my best lens. Not sure I would spring for the latest version though.</p>
Is a hand held light meter necessary for digital landscape photography?
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