lili_elrod

Eli,

Richard had a very good idea. There is a Seagull folder listed at Ritzcamera.com. It uses the red window but you can count strokes as he said. It has a quite good unit focusing lens and a COUPLED rangefinder with a decent viewfinder. GO to their catalog and look under "Horizontal 2 1/4 folders"...

The Perkeo has a decent if tiny VF. The Seagull looks to have project framelines and its VF is said to be fairly big and bright for MF folder. The Seagull has a unit focussing lens which ought to help image quality a bit wide open

Just a thought...

As to "available darkness" shooting, I agree. That is one reason I love my GSN and my Hexar AF so much. They both have big, bright and clear VF's. I am told an M3 would be brightest, but I cannot afford one yet ;)

As to flashbulbs, I have only ever played with his SX70. They were maybe as bright at peak as a 283 but the flash lasts so loooong it is still far more blinding O_O

I am not a big flash fan, I use the Hexar and very fast film and like the look of avaiable light (or lack thereof, LOL).

The bars I have and still do work at are a bit brighter than those you describe.

Oops.

Eli, I just saw your latest post.

Ok based on your lighting description and the fact your wife has gotten away with flash bulb you might be ok with a strobe. Even a 283 is nothing compared to most of those bulb flashes. My exes SX70 flashbars were bad enough! Imagine one of Weegee's 40watt lightbulb sized monsters!!!!

You'd need sunblock spf 50!

Richard is quite right, having been on stage I can attest that a flash could blind them badly. A fast lens and film might be far better.

A Yashica GSN/GTN is inexpensive and their lenses are great!

In MF, I still recommend the Perkeo II. With fast film you can still do quite well and even with pushed processing the big negative will minimize grain. The Color Skopar is very very good especially towards the center widee open and all over when stopped down. Since only the band will be well lit, then the edges and corners will not really matter.

As Dark as you describe the setting to be, don't forget that you will NOT be able to use the red window to count frames unless you have a bright flashlight. So you might consider a MF folder that has a frame counter, like a Super Ikonta, Super Ikomat or Perkeo II.

I find the red window difficualt enough to use in day light with some films, the numbering on the paper backing tend to very faint.

Kerrko,

Retina was good for the time. I might've selected my Flash Bantam buts that just me ;)

Hexar AF, black version.

Fastest, quietest, least obtrusive, toughest, best lens and viewfinder for the money.

As Dante Stella said, if I had 10 minutes to pack for a round the world trip taking just one camera; it would be my Hexar.

Robert,

That is a VERY clever idea.

I will try it :)

Dave,

I love the older cameras too.

It is great to find way to bring them back to life!!!

"Dave Powell , jun 16, 2006; 10:13 a.m.

Don't know whay I didn't try respooling like this before! To date, I've been removing entire strips of 35mm from their canisters and dark-bag loading them into my Bantam 4.5. With a square mask over the film plane (and careful attantion to the amount of winding between each frame), I'm able to get up to 40 very nice images on a 36-exposure roll (great lens). Did find, though, that the metal spring strips in the film compartments scratched the emulsion...so I also covered their edges with black electrical tape."

Why the Square mask? I had thought about taping over the green window on my Flash Bantam and Dark loading as you tried, then using the little sensing pawl to count perforations.

Tedious but workable.

Yes, please see;

http://daniel.mitchell.name/cameras/spool828/spool828.html

and

http://www.cosmonet.org/camera/f_bantam_828_e.htm

The latter site mentions using 126 film, however that film is pre-masked for 28x28mm and that would interfere with the 28x40mm Bantam frame.

I need to find some spools for my Flash Bantam!

Dan,

You are correct mine is indeed a Tessar type with front element focussing.

BTW mine is also 'lumenized' or coated and it rocks!

However even the triplet type should perform better than Ralf describes.

My Ex had a Perkeo I with a Vaskar that was really quite good even handheld.

My only issue with my Monitor is weight.

It is built like a tank.

Add the '620 Field Case' and its like carrying a brick!

But it is a sweet, portable, landscape camera.

Try this one;

http://www.hevanet.com/cperez/proposal.html

My Kodak Monitor 620 has the Anastigmat Special. The lens is razor sharp.

Have you checked yours out using a ground glass the film plane?

The anastigmats on these are, as a rule very good for front cell focus designs.

As for tripod sockets-mine has one on the door/lens bed, it is filled with a screw you have remove first.

One thing about these cameras, they do not hand hold well, the body release is stiff.

Mine is far happier on a tripod with a cable release :)

Petur

Michael and other have some good advice.

Dante Stella has some advice at his site;

http://www.dantestella.com/technical/superfix.html

Good luck :)

I agree with Dennis.

The Perkeo II may lack a rangfinder, but it's small, light, reliable and sharp.

Being able to carry a 6x6 cm camera in just a bit more space than a Minox 35 Rocks!

I have yet to see any Voigtlander camera, especially those with Color Skopars, that don't give lovely image quality.

Great work Gene!!!!

Perkeo I- red windows film counting

Perkeo II- auto fim counter

Please see

http://www.certo6.com/cam/perkeo.html

There earlier postere was correct as to how the filim counter works.

The leverl should be to the left when viewing the camera from behind.

Came across this thread while searching for something else.

I watch the news lately and you see endless examples of people killing each other in the Name of their Faiths. Its appalling and you wonder how this happens.

Then I see the mud slinging, name calling and hot tempers in here over something as simple and harmless as ones choice in cameras!

How very Sad :(

Gene, good one!!!

ROFL

Colin,

I had no issue with your definition, except for calling you on the reflex part.

I *think* the essence of "Box Camera" is Simplicity.

Dave's definition is close to my own, tho most dictionaries that even mention these cameras speak of fixed focus and limited shutter speed ranges.

I am not a purist but I do take issue with someone entering shots done with a focusing TLR with a 7 speed shutter against those shot with an Agfa Cadet.

Of course if the latter creates a stunning image with the far simpler equipment it proves that in the end it is the photographer that matter most.

I agree with Ken Rockwell seen here

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/notcamera.htm

All this being said I adore just going out with my Cadet or my Clack or my Box Tengor. Working within their limitations is oddly freeing.

What format is that Newman & Guardia?

Colin doesn't that "King" box camera have reflex viewfinders?

Just like my Box Tengor?

A TLR is NOT A box camera.

Is a Rolleiflex 2.8F with a compur shutter (1-1/500sec and B) and Zeiss planar lens the same thing as a Agafa Cadet with a simple instant and bulb shutter and single element meniscus lens?

Nope

It aint.

In 6X9cm, Box Tengors and Agfa Clacks Rule!!!

Biggest bang for the buck!

http://www.klein-aber-fein.de/zeitraum/english/geclacktes-00.htm

This Gentleman does great work with his!!!

Brian, you post that if you absolutely need the shot then a pocket digital camera is the way to go.

The originator of this thread seems to be needing work unobtrusively in low light.

So tell me, what pocklet digital camera has a fast lens and high iso rating AND performs well wide open in low light?

I have yet to see one.