radu_diaconu

Jay, thanks for the info, I already knew the site and it has definitely helped me before.

But, I've just realized that I'm missing the a gold contact pin: there are suppose to be seven, but I only have six.

The number two button is definitely stuck and cannot go up.

Thanks for the info, I guess I will have to return it to the seller.

Regards,

Radu D.

Hi,

I recently acquired a Nikon MD-4, serial number 105689, and after

putting batteries inside, i checked the red lights and boht light up

perfectly.

But, once the motor drive is attached on the camera, the trigger

doesn't fire and I can't get any reading on the LCD.

If someone has more info on this, please let me know how to solve the

problem.

Also, is it normal that I can't get button number two to go up? The

one that is supposed to rewind the film.

Thanks.

Radu D.

Thanks Lynn,

I hadn't thought about this, but I think you're right, I always turn the same way, although i don't use the spinner.

I'll try your technique, thanks a lot.

Regards,

Radu D.

Hi,

I am getting uneven development from my 120 roll films that I never

got before. What I'm talking about is that the first 6 frames are

noticeably darker than the last 6, as if they had gotten more

devlopment or less fix.

I never had that problem before and I have been developing film for

over a year now. This happened to me with T-Max dev. and D-76, so I'm

almost positive that it is not a question of developer, although, my

D-76 is a few months old, so it might be time to change.

I have thought that the plastic Paterson reels might be the problem,

but then again, i don't understand why this did not happen before.

Unfortunately I cannot post any samples, but just try to imagine half

the roll darker that the other half.

Thanks for all your responses.

Regards,

Radu D.

I usually develop Acros 100 in rodinal 1:250 for 2hours and I sometimes get uneven development, but it is only on a few frames...which is very weird.

I don't have any examples, but my negs (120) are very sharp and the tonal range is fantastic.

I mostly use this combination for night photography with times up to 2minutes with Acros.

Works well.

Regards,

Radu D.

Hi Anthony,

Concert photography is certainly difficult, and I'm no expert in that field, but I can give you certain references.

First, if you have the possibility to be on the side of the stage, do so. Some of the greatest photography shots were taken on the side of the stage.

Being in between the stage and the crowd is also a good spot.

Also, try shooting with a more normal lens (50/45/35) so you can get more shots of the band together and play with foreground and background.

Slow shutter speeds are always nice in a concert, especially on the front man and on drums.

My favorite concert photographer and one my favortie photographers in general is Anton Corbijn.

If you have ever seen his work, you know how well he captures the mood on stage, which is what you should try to do.

If you're into concert photography, or into any other type of photography, you must try to "feel" the vibe of the specific location.

Most importantly, the lighting conditions will certainly render the feel of the venue.

Try to play with shadows and shapes and don't focus only on getting sharp pictures, like I said, motion is everything.

I'm sending you a link so you can see for yoursefl if my explanations were not clear. (sorry!)

http://www.depeche-mode.com/Gallery/folder/dm_wallpapers/wallpapers_dm_live

PS: My FAVORTIE band.

Regards,

Radu D.

Hi Buttons,

I'm glad the combination workd fine and I was sure you'd love that. It is now one of my favorite combos.

You can still shoot wide open at 800, but you have to be inside. I have a Yashica Electro and wide open at F1.7 it is gorgeous with Tri-X and Rodinal. Nice sharp grain, a bit contrasty and very easy to print.

Regards,

Radu D.

Buttons,

For agitation, I pour the developer and agitate for the remaining first 1 minute (so if it takes me 10 sec to pour the developper, I continue to agitate for 50sec).

Then, I do two inversions per every following minute: this means that I see the bottom of the tank twice in every minute.

I always get perfect results that way.

Enjoy,

Radu D.

Sorry Buttons

I don't know why I put Jan,

Regards,

Radu D.

Hi Jan,

I developed a roll of Tri-X 800 in Rodinal 1:50 at 17min a few days ago and my negs were perfect, grainy, but very subtle and very nice. (at 20C)

The negatives were not flat, but then again, I print on a condenser enlarger so there is slightly more contrast on the print.

You can always change the contrast with filters or with Photoshop if you are scanning, so I recommend staying in the 16 to 18min range, you might not see a great difference in contrast.

Regards,

Radu D.

Thank you all for your answers, I will have a starting point.

Regards,

Radu D.

Hi All,

I have a roll of 120 Fuji Acros shot at 400 to do for a friend. I looked

at previous posts, but did not find sufficient informations concerning

this combination. I also looked at the Massive Dev. Chart and only found

speeds of 200 and 250. I have these developers on hand: D76,

Microdol-X, Diafine, TMax, Xtol, Rodinal....that's it.

Thank you all for your responses.

Radu Diaconu.

Hi,

I have a question regarding bulk loading. Which side does the emulsion

have to be when I open the light trap and obviously, which side should

I load the bulk film - clockwise or counterclockwise.

Thank you all for your answers

Radu Diaconu.

Thank you all for your comments.

I will do some tests and check it out. I'll come back on this.

Thank you.

Hi Michael,

I'm actually for high contrast, I know that D-19 is a contratsy developer and that's exactly why I intend to use it.

Thanks again.

Any suggestions?

Hi,

I would like to know if anyone of you has used Kodak D-19 with films

other than TP - like TRI-X for example or any othe film.

I'm trying to find some developping times for these films, but have

not been able to find anything - or any other films with D-19 except

TP and whatever is in the Massive Dev.Chart.

I would appreciate any feedback on this.

Thank you.

Regards,

Radu D.

Hi,

I would just like to know if anyone tried cross processing Ektachrome

P1600 shot at 3200 - which is a 3 stop push. If anyone has results on

that I would appreciate.

Thank you.

Hi Guy,

I know what you mean, I spent 20min in my bathroom trying to load my first roll. Well, first, try to get a roll that's been used and practice loading it with your eyes closed, in daylight. It might help.

The second trick I can give you, is to unroll slowly in darkness, until you feel the negative and with your tumb and first finger, to pull gently between the two rollers, and then just turn as usual. This is for plastic reels of course. It has helped me a lot and now it only takes me a few minutes to do the whole process.

Hope this helps,

Radu D.

David,

Do you also process normally, I mean without push or pull?

Thanks?

PS: How were your results?

Radu.

Hi all,

I will try crossprocessing Ektachrome 320T shot in daylight in mix

conditions, but I have two questions that are left unanswered from all

my research.

Do I really need to push/pull the film and to push/pull the C-41

process or can I just push the film and do normal C-41 or just expose

normally and do normal C-41

If anyone could clear this out for me, I would really appreciate.

Some people tend to say that you have to Overexpose (pull the film) by

two stops and push the C-41. And some say that just exposing normally

and C-41 normal is fine.

Anyway, I'm confused

Thank you again,

Radu Diaconu

Thank you all for your suggestions, I will try Shooting 320T in daylight and see what happens and I will also try 320T in daylight with cross processing.

Thanks again,

Radu D.

Hi all,

I have question regarding the look of a photograph of Depeche Mode by

Anton Corbijn.

The grain is amazing and the colours are muted, and I doubt he used a

computer in 1997.

So, would you know what kind of film he used, or maybe he pushed a

certain film. By now, I would think it would be discontinued, but I'll

give anything a try.

Here is the link:

http://www.corbijn.co.uk/images/photo_colourim_dm.jpg

Thank you,

Radu Diaconu