photojoe
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Posts posted by photojoe
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The Maxxum Camera offers more than the Nikon camera in question. The Nikon system offers more accessories and lenses (at a greater price... and, be honest, can you afford a 1200mm lens even in Nikon offers one where Minolta dosen't?)
Minolta (with Minolta lenses) offers you coverage from 17mm to 400mm (and futher, but I don't have personal experience with anything longer than 400mm in the Minolta line.)
Nikon may gain you a few mm on the wide end (at the expensive of many greenbacks) and quite a few more mm on the long end (again, at quite a cost...I've driven cars that cost me less than most Nikon lenses over 400mm)
If you're not going to make a living with your camera I'd recomend the Minolta system... if you MUST have that 1000mm+ glass to get the photos to bring home the bacon then use whatever system has the glass you need. I've just found that the Minolta system offers more for me, given my current funding levels for photography (nothing cost more than $800 in my current photogear collection.)
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I'd recomend a flash like a Vivita 283. You'll learn about f-stops and guide numbers and ISO that way. Can't give you specifics on SB-25, bu I think Manual-everything is the way to learn.
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I say it "Shime" with a "fluge" coming right after.
I've also heard it with "ShimeP" "Fluge"
As well as "Shimp" "Fluge"
I guess those I've been around can agree on how the word should end :)
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What functions of the maxxum 7 are you missing out of on the 5? Would those features really improve the quality of your images?
Do you shoot sports? Then maybe a faster drive and faster focus would help.
Spot meter much? Then perhaps that matrix meter display on the 7 could be a small time saver.
Wirelss Highspeed TTL, ADI Flash Metering, 14 segment metering, spot meter, and the whole line of Maxxum glass work just as well on the 5 as the 7.
Perhaps classes, workshops, film, labtime (or scanner/computer time if you do it that way), or upgrades to your lenses may be in order to help you mature photographicly.... 99% of the time it's not the gear that holds us back, just look at what those guys do with View Cameras make...and they don't have no stinking AF, Autoexposure, TTL metering, Off-camera flash, Motor Drive, or most of the nice things your Maxxum 5 has.
PS: I like the 600si, but it's a step backwards from the 5 in terms of technology, get a 9, a 7, or another 5 if you think you really need another camera.
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Photo.net member not logged in for over 6 months means we cut out all Unrated and Uncommented photos.
Over 12 months and all Images not linked to are gone, except those with ratings above whatever is average, or more than the average number of comments.
All photos with views that only come from the photo.net member themselves are deleted if older than 6 months. . . IE: 1000 Views of my photos from me is the same as 0 view. But, 1000 views from others will keep the image alive.
All photos with ratings of 2/2 and under with no comments and no links (if older than 6 months.)
Of course the exceptions to be extended to Patrons and Heros would exempt their images from such a purge.
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So, I got a pop-up today...the first and only so far I've had on
photo.net.
Here is a cut-n-paste of it, with URL:
CONGRATULATIONS!
YOU ARE THE 10,000,000th
VISITOR TO THIS WEBSITE
CLICK HERE TO CLOSE THIS WINDOW
and contact our prize department immediately
URL: http://www.qualypromos.com/adv/landing/index2b.html?ph1=1-800-
535-7415&ph2=PT659EM
So, my browser didn't like that URL when I clicked the link (that's
the Link URL)... can anyone tell me what I won for being the
10Millionth Photo.net user? (I'm thinking this was a clever 3rd party
pop-up, not really photo.net...but why not find out from the real
photo.net folks just to be sure?)
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You may have not seen it, but a month or two ago there was a post by a Maxxum user who was beffudled as to why his Maxxum 7 didn't work properly. It was determined that the photographer was using a non-compatable 3rd party lens. The lens was not made using Minolta's data regarding how the Maxxum cameras work, therefore the lens maker just made their best guess on how Minolta cameras work (and came real close! Only the Maxxum 5 and 7, with their D functions, exposed the problems with those lenses.) So, unless you want to risk that happening to you, stick to the genuine OEM product..IE: Minolta glass on a Minolta body... and the same for Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Olympus, Contax, etc. Besised, the Maxxum 24-105 scored better in various magazine lens tests than the Tamaron 24-135....and the Minolta lens also focuses quite a bit closer.
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The Maxxum 5 has the same metering system as the 1200$ Maxxum 9. It has the same Flash system as the $600 Maxxum 7. It has the metal lens mount (no cheap plastic) of a professional camera. If has the price of a EOS 2000. If you want to be able to buy a 1200mm lens get Nikon. If you want a 600mm lens with IS get Canon. If you want nearly silent focus get Canon. If you want 3D-ADI flash metering with off-the-camera wireless highspeed flash, a strong metal lens mount, a professional grade metering system, and the most compact AutoFocusSLR (if you ignore the Maxxum 4, which has the cheapo plastic lens mount and missing features)Then go for the Maxxum 5. If you intend to make a living from your photographs (as opposed to just enjoying making quality images for the sake of doing so) then I suggest Canon due to the availibility of super-exotic lenses (then again, I hope you have thousands of $ laying around to pay for that exotic glass.)
Basicly, The Maxxum 5 is a great camera that will do anything you need it to do (assuming you're not a pro.) Even if you are a pro the Maxxum 5 can do most things you ask of it (but not all.)
The EOS 2000 is probably the 2nd best camera in this price range...but your EOS2000 can hook up to a monster 600mm IS lens where the MAxxum 5 cannot. So, if you have the need, and the budget for those super-lenses (think sports illustrated) then go Canon. Otherwise I'd point 99% of first time SLR buyers to the Maxxum 5.
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South East, like Florida? Or South East like Australia or NewZealand?
Specifics would be good. Have you bothered to check the neighbor to neighbor section on recomended labs? You'll probably find your answer there quicker than waiting for us to respond.
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Moderators: Is this spam? You get a photo site, and 20 pop-up/pop-under ads. I think this MAY be some scam to get traffic for his ads. If it's not, Mr. Tai really should find a less annoying place to host his photos.
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Question: are those scans of prints - or scans of the negatives?
If prints - Try dodging, burning, and flashing techniques to get detail in your prints. If scans, adjust your contrast, exposure, and if available "analog gain"
If you've done the above and you still get these results then you're overexposing and/or overdeveloping the film.
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When I was learning to drive a car I was not to be bothered with things like threshold breaking, apex turning, powerslides, doughnuts, driving with two tires on the ground and two in the air. I was started on the basics, steering (composition) speed control (shutter speed) and stoping (f-stops). Once I mastered those I was allowed to experiment with other things (focal lengths, special effects, filters, multiple exposures, etc.)
So, my recomendation would be to master the basics with a 50mmF1.7 (or F1.4, or 2.8, or anything inbetween.) Once you are beyond problems like "not recognizing lighting issues" then you will be ready for other focal lengths.
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Love it. Could do without the pulldown java menu stuff, but even with that I'd have to rate it 9 stars out of 10.
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Zone VI makes a VC cold light head that will fit several enlargers such as Omegas and Beselers. They also make a Zone VI enlarger to go with their VC Cold light head.
And... what alternative process works with a "variable contrast" enlarger anyhow? It's that a trait of silver gelatin RC (and a few rare fb) papers? I suppose your asking this question so many times over makes a little sense on the general photo, photo equi., and lage format forums..but Alt.Process?
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Zone VI makes a VC cold light head that will fit several enlargers such as Omegas and Beselers. They also make a Zone VI enlarger to go with their VC Cold light head.
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Well, Mr. Dean wouldn't hang out with a Schneider... Schneider sounds like the name of some "white trash" bar-fly we all knew at some point or another. Mr. Rodenstock on the otherhand sounds like a stuffed shirt. Do would Dean hang out with eithe rof these guys? I guess not.
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Jesse's got the answer - a poorly made reel or the film jumping tracks and leaving some parts with more than one loop of film on a single track. Either will keep your chemsitry from going where you need it to go.
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How do you view civl war battle fields? How do you envision the events of both world wars? What impression comes to mind when you think about the Vietnam war? How much of your vision of those past events come from photographic/videographic(?) recordings? If nothing else you add anothre window onto the events following 9/11/01. I see no moral deliema with photographic such a scene.
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HC110, without a doubt. Also used d-76 and Tmax... but you already have HC110 :)
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Cyanotype uses water as the only processing fluid. You usualy use sunlight to expose them. I figure sunlight is used for the UV content, but it's not a silver print by any means. So...scratch that idea.
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<i>Sorry "Hypothesis". The Hypothesis is as follows
"Cannon, even though with its eye towards technological advances, does not hold a candle to the performance and the durability of a Nikon. <p>
<p>
(The Cameras in Question are 1)Nikon N80 2)Cannon rebel 2000<p>
</i><p>
<p>
Isn't the EOS 2000 the lowest end Canon available, and the N80, is just one step out of Nikon's professional line? It's like comparing a Geo-metro to a SUV.
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Try:
Diffusing the flash some more.
Spottone/retouching dyes/photoshop.
Getting subjects without the excessive drool :P
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FWIW, you can now post these generic photography questions to the main photo.net board, and even better, search the archives there and read the HUNDREDS of threads on exactly this same subject. :)
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What subjects do we NOT shoot (and why)?
Motorsports (it's hard to get the swing, tilt, shift, focus, and close and cock the shutter before those speedemons go motoring away.)
Maxxum 7 vs. N80
in Accessories
Posted
Followup note:
I found prices for the 1200-1700mm Nikor lens ranging from $50k to $74k using google. You're not going to find any Maxxum lenses that give you 1700mm, so if you've got the *NEED* and the *MONEY* Nikon does offer you more.