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john_robison3

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Everything posted by john_robison3

  1. john_robison3
    <p>Seems like in some of the old photos of the Beatles I've looked at at least Ringo was carrying a Pentax H1a or perhaps a H3v. The Nikon F (with Tn or FTn meter prism) is a good suggestion also although older meters may not work. The F with a plain, non metered prism would be the best idea but plain eye level prisms for F's are almost as expensive as the body.</p>
  2. john_robison3
    <p>I think you meant Nettar. If fully working and in good cosmetic condition then price depends on which lens/shutter combo it has. I bought a simple Nettar with 3 speed + B Vario shutter and a 75mm f6.3 Novar lens for $25, very clean and working. Models with faster lenses (75mm f4.5) and Prontor shutters go for more.</p>
  3. john_robison3
    <p>The Rolls is OK to blow up. But if he blew up a Leica I'd be outraged.</p> <p>Sarcasm alert. </p>
  4. john_robison3
    <p>That #6 was not true even in 2004. All the high technology is in the manufacturing of film, especially color negative and color positive film. Sure, making CMOS sensors and related electronics plus all the computer and printer gear and software is complex but making film takes a huge multimillion dollar investment if you don't already have it in place. Yeah, I know, the Ferrania restart on Kickstarter. But there they are salvaging a lot of very expensive equipment.</p>
  5. john_robison3
    <p>Mike Johnston wrote a piece on Luminous Landscape titled "The 50mm lens and metaphysical doubt" a decade or so ago. A good read that deals with this question. Still online, just google the title.</p>
  6. john_robison3
    <p>Fantastic effort Chris. Thanks for sharing with the rest of the classic camera crowd. Mike Connealy (mconnealy.com) has similar instructions for using 120 film in one of these. He says 8.5 turns to bring the first frame to the gate, then 2.5 turns per frame, 6 frames total. I have one of the 116 Kodak folders but with a 130mm f7.7 lens but have not tried it yet.</p>
  7. john_robison3
    <p>Absolutely love half frame. I have a modified Pen D with a top and VF from a Pen. The brightlines are for 28 mm but I just mentally adjust and it has an accessory shoe now and looks better. Only shoot B&W though. Color negative would have to be sent off and with postage and processing, a CD and proofs it would be a very expensive per roll cost. Also have a modest Pen F outfit. </p>
  8. john_robison3
    <p>Ah, that's easy man. Attend please this logic.</p> <p>David Burnett is a professional.<br /> David Burnett uses, among other cameras, a Holga 120. (And has pictures from that camera published in national magazines)<br /> Now wait for it........ In view of the foregoing, the Holga is a "prosumer camera" .</p> <p>PS almost forgot, he sometimes uses a speed Graphic with a 180mm f2.5 Aero Ektar. Not sure if that makes the Graphic a prosumer camera or not. </p>
  9. john_robison3
    <p>Of course I thought about lens angle of view conversions back in the 70's, all us Olympus Pen F/FT half frame users did. This was especially true when we used Nikon, OM, M42, and other lens mount adapters on our Pen reflex bodies. Although the aspect ratio of full frame is 2:3 and half frame is 3:4 I just crop 4mm off the long side of a FF frame and wind up with 24X32mm a 3:4 ratio with a 40mm diagonal. Then the lens factor for half frame, at a 30mm diagonal, is 1.33, not as much as one would assume. </p>
  10. john_robison3
    <p>Thanks for sharing. I've often wondered about these early FSU cameras. It is so refreshing to work with a simple camera with only three direct controls to consider when in use. Sometimes, in bright light at small apertures and moderate to long distances you don't even have to worry about focus, just leave it at infinity. Color negative film provides reasonable latitude I see. I'd like to shoot color but there is just no local walk-in C-41 processing anymore, the nearest is a 51 mile round trip.</p>
  11. john_robison3
    <p>Quite amazing results with such a basic LF camera build. I keep toying with the idea of a sliding box camera but in 8X10 so I can use film holders. That is about the biggest holders I can afford used. Even then a couple of holders would be the single most expensive part of the whole setup. The paper would be cheaper at that size and I already have the trays and chemicals for processing that format. </p>
  12. john_robison3
    <p>Your best shot is on frame thirty eig--</p>
  13. john_robison3
    <p>The best lens is a tripod. </p>
  14. john_robison3
    <p>To me it looks like a product possibly made under contract by Cosina, for Prinz. There is something about the body that also resembles a Ricoh 500G, except for the fast lens of course.</p> <p>I could be all wet in that. I've been well mistaken before on camera lineage.</p>
  15. john_robison3
    <p>Here in the US it's available from Freestyle Photo for $12 a roll. Bit spendy but I don't have any camera that takes that size so a moot point for me. </p>
  16. john_robison3
    <p>Cosmetic condition is not always an indication that cameras are functioning within nominal limits. Often, just sitting for decades will cause cameras to stop working. Especially this applies to leaf shutters. So, one could have a pristine camera from the 50's that only had 2 or 3 rolls of film run through it be completely jammed after sitting 50 years in a closet. That same camera could still be working with regular use. </p>
  17. john_robison3
    <p>Although I have a natural aversion to all auto cameras you have sure made that one sing. Thanks for sharing. </p> <p>John (next door in Olympia)</p>
  18. john_robison3
    <p>We owe so much to Leo Baekeland. Too bad they don't make Bakelite bodied cameras anymore. </p>
  19. john_robison3
    <p>Digital cameras are just tools. </p> <p>Film cameras, at least some of the all mechanical ones, are works art.</p> <p>Even film cameras, when they started to have electronic control, LCD screens, auto wind/rewind, auto focus, and the ugly melted plastic blob styling started by the Canon T90, well that is when even film cameras became "tools". </p> <p>Yeah, I'm a crank, so what?</p>
  20. john_robison3
    <p>The EC and ED are completely electronic and will not work at all unless all electronics are in working order. No, you cannot just remove the small circut board. <br> At $10, unless they are already working correctly, you probably have two $5 paper weights. </p>
  21. john_robison3
    <p>Pilot user here too. Cheap, sturdy, reliable. Will meter all outdoor light and can just respond to very bright indoor light. Handy plastic case makes it very portable.</p> <p>My go-to dim light meter is a Luna Pro. Spent less than $25 for both meters. </p>
  22. john_robison3
    <p>I'm in the oiled wood, brass, and glass camp, in an 8X10 size I think. Although I do not own one and could not afford the film or processing if I did I'd still want one just because they are so pretty. I'd keep it out on a wood tripod just to look at it. </p>
  23. john_robison3
    <p>A person can ask any price they want, don't mean they will get it. The only thing that counts are completed auctions.</p> <p>I have an RC, they are ok except for that stupid 43.5mm filter size. I ordered an 43.5mm to 43mm step down ring and it stays on the lens all the timeand now all my 43mm filters for my Pen F lenses also fit the RC.</p>
  24. john_robison3
    <p>If you don't know how to solve a complex problem (ie. to interdict terrorism) then, to appear to the public that you are "doing something" you look for some kind of measures that you can do, and then say "see, we are doing something to keep the public safe." </p>
  25. john_robison3
    <p>So, before you used the camera, you had a cat scan done?</p> <p>Sorry, coulden't resist.</p>
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