m.c.fitz

<p>Last fall, taken with a test roll in the Leica IIIC to determine if it was still working.<br>

Turns out it wasn't, as the shutter curtain stopped firing after the first 8 or 9 pictures.<br>

It has since been given a good CLA and is working better than it had since I've owned it. They also cleaned up the view finder window, which made an amazing difference.</p>

<div></div>

<p>Ruins of old fortified château:</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>Another one from Pont en Royan last Sunday:</p><div></div>

<p>David Weiss, that is a lovely portrait of your father.</p>

<p>Sunday at Pont en Royan:</p><div></div>

<p>Public flower gardens, late August.</p><div></div>

<p>Andrew Brown, thank you so much. I've taken a look at Rick Oleson's site and think it is going to be helpful.</p>

<p>I would like to give this a try myself. I already know how expensive camera repairs and a good CLA costs, having had some equipment - Leica IIIC, Rolleiflex - repaired and given a thorough CLA by excellent people in Holland. But I am not sure they handle folding cameras, and the camera repair budget has been stretched to the limit at this point. <br /><br /><br>

The cost of putting this camera into working order again would mount very quickly, especially if it had to be sent away somewhere for repairs. The cost of reliable transport alone is high, which means using the French postal system is out of the question, as reliable it is not.</p>

<p>However it is a sweet camera and has sentimental value as well, so attempts shall be made to get it working again.</p>

<p>Thank you again for your help and suggestions.</p>

<p>John Shriver, Bill Bowes, thank you for taking the time to suggest several repair services. Unfortunately they seem to be in the U.S., but I do not live in that part of the world.</p>

<p>Shipping, return shipping, payments, currency exchanges, tarif for payments etc, quickly make a repair somewhat exhorbitant.</p>

<p>Ken Rapp, thank you for your feedback and so sorry that you had bad experience with one of the suggested repair facilities.</p>

<p>Paul, yes, the shutter leaves are completely closed. Before putting film in the camera I verified that all speeds and apertures worked in terms of the shutter leaves.</p>

<p>Self timer has completed its cycle. More than once in this attempt to diagnose the problem.</p>

<p>Thank you again for your questions and insight.</p>

<p>John Wiegerink, thank you for your input.</p>

<p>Yes, the shutter release lever returns to the ready position, but at this point the cocking lever has had enough, and will not return to the preset position <em>at all</em>, even after having activated the shutter release.<br>

The shutter cannot be opened and closed in any position, T or otherwise.</p>

<p>Thank you again for your help.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thank you for replying, Andrew, here are the answers to your questions.</p>

<p>The gap between the release paddle and the shutter release is normal. The paddle swings away from that position when the bellows are folding to close the camera.</p>

<p>When activated, the paddle moves easily and completely into contact with the shutter release.</p>

<p>Pushing only the shutter release does absolutely nothing at all, same as using a cable to fire the mechanism.</p>

<p>None of these actions has any effect on the cocking lever at the top, except, perhaps, to unblock it, but not fire it.</p>

<p>If the shutter release is not activated after the cocking lever has been set to fire, then the cocking lever cannot be moved out of that position by gently nudging it.</p>

<p>Depressing the camera's shutter release at the rear platform activates the paddle, and it does indeed move far enough to fully engage the release lever on the shutter assembly.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>It takes a cable release, and I've tried that, but it doesn't fire the shutter.</p>

<p>Paul, I tried doing that, but it didn't do the trick. Thanks for the suggestion.<br>

And I realise that I haven't correctly explained the situation.<br>

The paddle that presses on the shutter release lever is in place as it should be, and moves when I press the shutter release, but the lever that cocks and fires the shutter does not move. Something isn't connecting the one to the other.<br>

I don't know if that helps to describe it clearly, perhaps not...</p>

<p>The last photo taken with the camera:</p><div></div>

<p>Hello, I'm new to this forum, although not new to Photo.net<br /> I have my grandfather's Voigtlander and in general it is in very good condition. The bellows are light tight, and the lens is clean. I started using it again recently, and took several rolls of film with it, but the shutter release has now given up the ghost.<br /> The mechanism for firing can be cocked but the lever that trips the shutter release is no longer engaged, so the shutter does not work.<br /> Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to go about trying to take this apart and see if it can be repaired?<br /> It isn't a straightforward camera to use, since it is zone focus, but I have become quite fond of both using it and the 6x9 format.<br /> Here is the camera itself:<br /> <br /> <br /> In advance, thank you for any help or advice.</p><div></div>

<p>Many thanks for all the replies.</p>

<p>Just to address a few suggestions that were made: the streaks are only on some of the negatives, not all of them.</p>

<p>They are definitely on the negs, and were not caused by the scanner. They show up on the contact sheet printed in the darkroom, and on the work prints also made there.</p>

<p>Using a loupe and a light box, I've inspected the negatives and the streaks do not extend all the way across the frame.</p>

<p>I do not believe the chemistry or development and agitation are the cause. As I mentioned, only some of the negatives on the roll show this problem, not all of them. And the other film that was in the tank when this was developed is fine. The fix was fresh, and I adapt the time as required for the film type.</p>

<p>And a friend to whom I loaned the 28 experienced the same problem with his M6. Different camera, different photographer, same problem, and again, only on some of his negatives.</p>

<p><strong>John Shriver</strong>, thank you for your suggestion, which I more or less grasp. Could you explain a bit more what would be involved in such a thing as you described? The shutter speed could indeed have been 1/1000s, I don't recall.</p>

<p>At any rate I'll be pleased to rule out a problem with the lens.</p>

<p>Thank you again, gentlemen, for taking the time to consider the problem and reply.</p>

<p>I have an Elmarit 2.8/28 lens, which on a couple of recent rolls of film has shown some strange streaks. It isn't the camera, an M6, because my other lenses don't have this problem, and the 28 was used on a second M6 and the same problem occurred.<br>

It doesn't happen consistently, however, on all frames of the film, but mainly when outside under very bright, strong light.<br>

Here are some examples of what is happening:<br>

<img src="/photo/17746059" alt="" /></p>

<p><img src="/photo/17746060" alt="" /><br>

<br />This hasn't occurred on all 36 exposures, nor has it happened on all shots taken under bright sunlight. It is always on the same side, which corresponds to the place where there is a bit cut out of the sun shade on the 28. This makes me wonder if it is some sort of strange flare. <br>

Film used is Ilford Delta 100, developed in Xtol, 1+1 dilution. And is isn't surge marks from the developping, either, that I know.<br>

Any ideas as to what this might be due to? I searched the data base here to try and discover if this problem has been discussed, but it doesn't seem to have been. In fact, I came across several threads where people said the Elmarit 28mm is not prone to flare.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<div></div>

Feed your mind.<p><a href="http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k182/nenuphar_19/?action=view&current=The-reader.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k182/nenuphar_19/The-reader.jpg" border="0" alt="The reader"></a>

If you are addressing those remarks to me, I'm afraid you did not understand the intent of my post to you. No rudeness was intended, nor do I see how any comments made to you were tasteless. I LIVE in France, and you asked for "comments ideas experiences". I responded in kind. What was to you an exciting street event was not newsworthy to those who have been living here and experiencing things like this for many years. No more, no less.

Um, yes, I hate to disullision you, but this happens so frequently in France, you have no need to worry about needing a copyright lawyer or ties to the press - basically, if something truly newsworthy had been going on, the press would have been there in double fast time. Trust me. I've seen the bomb squad suit up a sapper while all traffic was held up at Lyon airport, only to blow up a forgotten piece of luggage that had no interest whatsover. The ones that do cause damage are not seen beforehand. You might have some amusing anecdotal pictures of the routine, but that is it.

Negative space - taken with an M6, 50mm Sumicron, Delta 100 rated at 50 ASA.<p><a href="http://s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd235/no1nos-me/Photo%20Exhibit/?action=view&current=little-feet.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd235/no1nos-me/Photo%20Exhibit/little-feet.jpg" border="0" alt="Little-feet"></a>

<a href="http://www.johnstevenson-gallery.com/bernhard_2004/bernhard_2004_tn.html#">Ruth Bernhard</a>

All right, I'm back. I've read all the responses, some with pleasure, some with preplexity, some with humour.

 

Getting the camera back is highly unlikely. The store we took it to, who was dealing with sending it to Paris, has been fantastic. Considering the condition the camera was in, they had insured it well. For an M4P it was in excellent condition.

 

The decision remains up to my husband, not me, but he has talked to the owners of the shop. They deal with Leicas, new and used, and are going to let us know if they come across a good M6, TTL isn't a requirement. They are more likely to come across a variety of used equipment than we are, they are eager to sort this out for us, and they will also be able to judge the state of any used camera that comes their way.

 

Fred Obturateur, I laughed when you said Paul's post was the silliest of the year. I don't agree, the one by Vic was sillier - when he started to talk about a valuable diamond being stolen, being swallowed and then passing through the digestive system of the thief, I thought he was going to suggest that the thief may have swallowed the M4P and would I want it back after it had exited where it would have had to - ah well, always wait to read the punch line, right, if it's a joke or a post on a forum.

 

And is your name really Obturateur? Or is that the other punch line that I've been waiting for, on a camera forum?

 

At any rate, thank you to all who have been sympathetic. This will all get sorted out, but being able to post here literally right after getting the bad news was helpful.

 

TTYL, mcfitz.

;-)

I don't post here often, although I did at one time. My husband just phoned to me to tell me that his M4P

has been stolen when the courrier's van was robbed. We had taken it to a reputable Leica dealer who was

sending it to the repair person they use in Paris. They sent it by ChronoPost, the French Post Office

courrier service, so it was the courrier company that was hit. Yes, it was insured, but as the man told my

husband, it would have been easier to replace an M7 than a vintage M4P. The store has informed Leica and

sent along the serial number of the camera. We still have the sales bill. The store deals with new and used

Leica's they are a good place and will help us to find a replacement, but like it or not, there is also the

sentimental value attached to it. Who knows, maybe it will be found?

 

The thing is that we are both so careful with our cameras when we travel it seems very ironic that it should

happen like this.

 

Trying to look on the bright side, there was no lens sent with it. I still have my M6 if he should feel the

need to use it, although he doesn't like to use my camera. He isn't completely camera-less, since he has a

Mamiya 6x7 and a 5x4 field camera. No-one was hurt. Anyone have anything else to raise morale here?

 

Sigh. What a drag! It was being sent to have the viewfinder cleaned, because apart from that, that camera

worked like a charm.

 

All right, whining is over. Maybe I'll go load some film in a camera as therapy.

 

;-)

I squegee them off first, dry them image side down on screens, then place each print between a folded sheet of acid free drawing paper, dampen the back of the print with a clean wash cloth that has been soaked and then wrung out until it is almost dry, it's just damp. Close each folder, place a flat board between every two folder, pile them up and use large and very heavy dictionairies as well as 14kilos weights on top. I leave them for a day or two. Works very well, both for flattening the prints and because that is what I have to work with in terms of equipment, not having a press of some sort.

Piotr Panne, or is it Peter Pan? I have never been certain.

 

<<Piotr Panne , sep 04, 2006; 12:23 p.m.

<<<May be ironed with cool iron if desired.\">>>

 

Okay Mr. Sensible Essentials, describe a cool iron and why you would use it to press a rag into an iron board dotted with a month\'s goobers, snots, and grime before rubbing it into a $3000 lens.

 

Forgot. It\'s more fashionable to destroy the B&W.>>

 

Never ironed, have you? Ironing is done on clean clothes, the months's worth of goobers, snots, and grime have been sweetly and miraculously washed away. Usually by a sensible woman. With standards.

 

Besides, a cool iron is just that, an iron set on a cool setting. With the exception of flat irons that are heated on wood stoves, modern electric irons have heat settings, including *warm*. Which that same, aforementioned woman, would use on her lovely silk lingerie, which she has carefully washed, usually by hand.

 

Unless, of course, she is a Leica user (raises hand here) and cannot afford said silky undergarments.

 

Hope this helps, lad.

 

;-)

 

Oh, and by the way, the usual clean, soft, overwashed cotton t-shirt works very well, but nothing beats real, over washed, 100% linen. JMO.

 

Ironed, or unironed.