nigel d

I fyour scanning includes Kodachrome, ICE4 may make it worthwhile to get the V as it is better behaved with Kodachrome.

You know the answer... See a lawyer.

 

Just because you feel you owe him something does not mean that you actually do. A lawyer can advise if you actually owe anything, what you might owe him, how much a court might award him, and the probability of actually going to court (and the likely outcome). As well, a lawyer could handle the negotiation for you.

See a lawyer.

See http://www.hamrick.com/vuescan/html/vuesc18.htm#topic17

 

Frame offset nudges the frame back and forth so that you can scan the exact area you want. The easiest way to see how it works is to play with it - move it back and forth and see what happens. Remember that the preview will not change until you generate a new preview.

Subscibe and it will go away is not a brush-off. See

 

http://www.photo.net/frequent-questions#support

 

where it is made quite clear

 

"Since 2003, it has been a subscription site, but offers free access to non-subscribers who use the site infrequently, or who are still familiarizing themselves with the site. Complimenatry access is also offered to low income persons who cannot afford the subscription fee. While subscription is not optional for frequent users, it is on the honor system: each person is left to decide for himself when his access has become frequent enough to make subscription obligatory and whether his income is sufficient to make it affordable."

See http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j24/j24.jhtml?id=0.1.20.14.18.14.7.22.14&lc=en

I will add that if your "from" address and your "reply to" address do not match, many spam filters will automatically delete the email without any notice to the intended recipient.

Disclaimer - I am not a patent attorney, nor do I play one on TV.

 

For a patent to be valid, the invention described must be novel, useful, and non-obvious to one skilled in the art. From my quick read of the patent, it appears that the inventors have patented the relational database containing photos and individual identifiying information. It could be hard to claim that this is novel and non-obvious. But since the USPTO saw fit to issue a patent, should you be sued for infringement, you would have to prove that the patent is not valid. The simplest proof would be the demonstration that a similar system was in use prior to the claimed invention.

 

On a practical level, if you were sued and you lost, the damages awarded would likely be either your profits from the use of the system or the inventor's lost profits. The legal bills could easily wipeout any damages.

 

And now my rant - The USPTO has been creating a large number of problems by granting patents that should never have been granted. The attitude appears to have been when in doubt, grant the patent and let the courts sort it out. Unfortunately, this has tied up lots of courts and stifled innovations while patents were tied up in court on the way to invalidation. In the end, consumers have suffered and only the lawyers have benefitted.

Last month I was taking some pictures at my brother's wedding. Normally, I use Provia and Velvia and recognizing that neither film is great for skin tones, I looked for another film. In making that decision, I ran a side by side test of Astia and E100G. Initially, I liked the look of the E100G. Upon doing the side by side comparison however, I found that the E100G has a warmer color balance, but I found the color of the Astia to be a closer match to reality. The Astia also appeared somewhat sharper, however, not so much so as to be a big factor in the decision. Overall, I fond that I prefer the look of Astia primarily because of the color accuracy.

Subscribe and you will see no ads...

I could never quite figure out NikonScan. I found VueScan to be a very valuable investment. YMMV

Astai and Provia are certainly not the same film. Despite what you have been told, Astia is available in Italy - see http://www.fujifilm.it/aree/prodotti/sezione.asp?cat=Pellicole+professionali&mcat=Pellicole

<i>Is the lack of a Credit Card merchant gateway a huge issue? </i> <br> I would not buy from a merchant that does not accept credit cards.<br>

<i>Is there actually a customer base for this sort of thing?</i><br> There are sellers of these films in Toronto, so there must be some market for them. However, that does not mean that another seller can enter the market profitably.

You can download a trial copy that will operate for about 1 month. Why not try it out for yourself.

Won't be good for those of us who want our photos untitled...

I think that you will find that Adam Smith was not talking about proxy bidding in online auctions. What he means by toil and trouble is the work that must be done; i.e. the time required to earn the money to purchase the item or the time required to manufacture the item for oneself.

I think you are being hopeful.

 

First, the first developer develops a B&W negative image, it is followed by exposure (usually a chemical substitute) then color developer to process all the remaining silver halide. The color developer goes to completion, so adding extra CD3 is unlikely to do anything meaningful.

 

Second, in E-6, the color dyes are integral to the film, thus the color palette is dependant upon the film, not the color developer. The color developer is just couplers to active the dye.

 

In short, if you want the look of Velvia, you have to buy Velvia...

James, the reels and loader are a set. You can't use the loader with other reels.

 

WRT to your loading troubles, the trouble is that if you don't get the film perfectly straight at the begining, you will run into trouble at the end. If you think about it, being off square in the begining by a degree or two the amount the film wants to move off track increases as you get further out. The whole trick to loading metal reels is getting the film square in the first place.

 

Personally, I prefer the cheat to practice, thus I use the loader. It has saved countless frames of film.

I use my CS9000 for 6x7, but I think I can help a bit. The .tif files it produces are over 500MB. In looking at scans at the pixel level, it clearly picks up the details in the film, thus, big enlargements are certainly possible. The large files can become a bit unweildy to deal with - you will need a computer with lots of RAM and some patience as the computer chews through the data.

 

The supplied carrier, in my mind leaves much to be desired. However, if you have greater dexterity than me, you may find it more than adequate. For me, I find the glass carrier to be a neccessity.

 

YMMV.

I braodly agree with John. DIY E-6 is not excessively difficult. If you have done B&W, then you can do E-6. As far as temperature control goes, I use a water bath with no heater; I just add more hot water as it cools. The most sensitive step from a temperature control point of view is the first developer. All the other steps go to completion, therefore temperature is less important.

 

I use the Kodak 5l kit. Undiluted, the chemistry appears to last a long time. I have successfully used chemistry that has been open for more than 6 months.

 

From a cost perspective, the process may or may not be cost effective. It depends on the price at which you can get the chemistry, the cost of processing otherwise, and specific technique, as well as how you value your time.

 

Very good control of your process can be had if you are meticulous in your proceedure. I keep notes each time I develop (E-6 and B&W) and am rigorous in timing and temperature. If you are haphazard, your results will likely be variable.

 

YMMV

It really comes down to two choices; huge amounts of practice or cheat. Although practice does make perfect, you will go through many ruined films of the way. Consider these cheats:

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=26290&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=26254&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

 

I use these for both 35mm and 120 and have never had a scatch from them. YMMV

ILkka makes good points. I will simply point out that for 35mm only, film flatness with a Nikon Cool Scan is not a problem, so a CS 5000 or CS V would be good choices at lower prices than the CS 9000.

You may be able to handle this without a lawyer. However, should things get messy and you end up needing a lawyer, then some of the actions you take now without a lawyer could undermine your position later.

 

It is reasonably cheap to go to a lawyer simply to ask if the contract covers this use and to have him/her write a letter or two to get you paid. Using a lawyer will indicate that you take your property rights seriously. As well, as a dispassionate outsider is likley to get you a fair settlement.

I think you need a labor lawyer familiar with local laws more than an intellectual property lawyer.

I recently started with a P67II. It is much heavier than a 35mm, but I don't find it too heavy to carry places. I heard much about the mirror slap before getting mine, but I must admit, I don't find it all that bad. It is possible that the mirror slap problem is much more pronounced with 6x7 bodies, as opposed to the 67II. I do a fair bit of shooting at night (exposures up to several minutes long) and find it quite easy to work with for this type of shot.

 

I scan my film and find that the biggest limitation of the 6x7 format is the size of file produced. It means that scanning takes a long time and simple adjustments such as color balance can take a long time in software (even with large amounts of memory).

 

YMMV