keith_tapscott

<p>To Lynn, this formula might provide similar results to Microphen, although you might also want to add some sodium tripolyphosphate or sodium hexametaphosphate first at around 3 grams per litre of stock-solution before dissolving the main constituents. That should prevent any calcium sulphite scum from forming.<br /> There are two replenishers here, one for topping up and another for a bleed-off method.</p>

<p>http://www.lostlabours.co.uk/Uploads/axford-ken.jpg</p>

<p>I will give Canon the benefit of doubt due to Lion OSX being available just recently, but they need to get the new software/drivers out as soon as they can.</p>

<p>Luckily I can use the Apple iPhoto software for importing stills and video from my camera and the video does works with iMovie as I just found out.</p>

<p>I wonder how many other manufacturers software isn't yet compatible with Lion OSX?</p>

<p>Rob, I will only be doing the occasional short video for fun, nothing serious but should be OK for sites like YouTube. :-)</p>

<p>Hi Martin,</p>

<p>I don't have Apple Aperture, but I do have the latest version of iPhoto which is working fine with the 600D.<br /> Part of the appeal of the 600D was that it can also be used for movie clips which might be useful for the occasional family event.<br /> I haven't tried the movie mode on the camera yet, so I don't know if I can use the Apple iMovie software with my 600D. I hope I can.</p>

<p><em>Thanks JDM. I contacted Canon technical support about this and just received this reply.</em><br>

<em>I am disappointed that the required drivers and software isn't available already. I will just have to wait and see. </em>:-(</p>

<p>Dear Mr. Tapscott, <br /><br />Thank you for contacting Canon Support.<br /><br />Kindly be advised Canon is aware of the new operating system release and is currently working on drivers and software for the products that will be compatible with the new 10.7 OS.<br /><br />At this time, we cannot confirm there will be drivers/software available for your product.<br /><br />We can only advise you to keep checking the software download center at the link below, for the release. We have been informed all drivers/software will be available by October, 2011.<br /><br />http://software.canon-europe.com/<br /><br />Thank you again for contacting Canon Support.<br /><br /><br />Should you have any further queries with regards to this matter or wish to reply to this e-mail within the next 5 days, please click on this link.<br /><br />Yours sincerely,<br /><br /><br /><br />(Name given by the sender)<br />Canon Consumer Support</p>

<p>I bought a Canon EOS 600D camera this week, but after installing the software, registering and restarting my iMac, the software gives me a message which says <strong>'Alert' <em>"Cannot be used with this version of the operating system."</em></strong></p>

<p>I upgraded recently from Snow Leopard OSX 10.6 to Lion 10.7 if that helps anyone to answer my question.<br>

I am guessing that the driver is not compatible with Lion.</p>

<p>Thanks for the replies and the humorous one's about the difference of 50 digits are appreciated as well. :-)</p>

<p>I don't use digital much for stills and I definitely wont be spending the extra cost for a 60D or 7D.<br /> It is the abilty for HD video that appeals to me mostly. I already have a good selection of Canon EF series lenses.</p>

<p>According to this photographer, Pan F Plus is better in DD-X than in Rodinal. </p>

<p>http://www.philpankov.com/-/philpankov/article.asp?ID=1420</p>

<p>I like it in D-76 1+1.</p>

<p>Another alternative if you are happy to reuse and replenish , is to also mix D-76R replenisher and top up after each processing session. Kodak and Ilford provide instructions for how to do that.<br>

That, or one of the high dilution one-shot developers that Robert suggested. If you go to Jason Brunner's website, there is a simplified method there for using Kodak HC-110 for single usage each time you process a film.</p>

<p>John has exactly the right idea. I no longer buy D-76 and the cost of a 1 litre packet of ID-11 is well over priced in my opinion. I recently started making my own again and it seems to be as good as what Kodak and Ilford sell.</p>

<p>The great thing about mixing your own is that you can make as much or as little as you need when ever required without having excess stock solutions hanging around too long and turning bad.</p>

<p>I often make up as little as 500ml of stock at a time which I allow to settle over a day or two before I use it, so it's fresh every time.</p>

<p>The basic formula is: Water at about 50*C = 750 ml<br /> Metol developing agent = 2 grams<br /> Sodium sulphite, anhydrous = 100 grams<br /> Hydroquinone = 5 grams<br /> Borax = 2 grams<br /> Water to make 1 litre of stock solution.</p>

<p>Larry, are those images scanned from enlargements on silver-halide B&W paper or are they negative scans?<br>

Sadly, many negatives never get enlarged using a traditional wet process.</p>

<p>AFAIK, Ilford DD and DD-X are the same, the X is the hobby size.<br>

A former Ilford employee describes them in the link below and he helped to design them.</p>

<p>http://www.davebutcher.co.uk/equipment</p>

<p>AFAIK, Ilford DD and DD-X are the same, the X is the hobby size.<br>

A former Ilford employee describes them in the link below and he helped to design them.</p>

<p>http://www.davebutcher.co.uk/equipment</p>

<p><strong><em>"Keith,</em></strong><br /> <strong><em>Yes...that's what I said. However, both have inherent properties, and that's what I'm asking."</em></strong></p>

<p>Julien, yes, but that would apply for any other B&W film you choose to use. When asking for aesthetic differences, you will get very subjective replies, it's like asking if one type of Apple taste better than another.<br /> Neopan 400 has a some what different character as do T-Max 400 and Delta 400.<br /> You really need to decide for yourself which you personally prefer, not let someone else make that decision for you.</p>

<h1>Aesthetic differences in HP5+ and TriX</h1>

<p>Only you can decide which you prefer.</p>

<p><em>"I dont understand what 1:30 is?</em><br /><em> 1oz of developer and 30oz of water?"<strong> </strong></em><br>

<em><strong><br /></strong></em><br>

<em><strong> </strong></em>It simply means <em><strong>1 part of developer diluted with 30 parts of water.</strong></em> 1oz of developer and 30oz of water would be a correct dilution. Measure in fluid ounces or millilitres, what ever is more convenient for you.</p>

<p>If you want the optimum resolution from Pan F Plus, use Ilford Perceptol developer which is formulated to minimise grain albeit at some loss of effective film speed. (You don't get something for nothing.)<br /> I found using half of the ISO and a dilution of 1+1 produces very satisfactory results with that combination with excellent tone reproduction.<br /> Read the Ilford Pan F Plus technical information for a guide to get started.<br /> http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/product.asp?n=5&t=Consumer+%26+Professional+Films</p>

<p>An acutance developer such as Rodinal or Neofin will help to produce edge effects that give an exaggerated appearance of increased sharpness, but will also make the grain more prominent, although Pan F is already very fine-grained any way. Don't confuse resolution with acutance.</p>

<p>I read somewhere that the FA-1027 developer is made by Clayton Photo-chemistry and is the same as their F-76 Plus developer. Lowell Huff will be able to confirm this.<br>

http://www.claytonchem.com/pdfs/Darkroom/PBF76PLUSFILMDEVELOPER.pdf<br>

You can find the times for F-76 Plus on the Digital-Truth website.</p>

<p>I read somewhere that the FA-1027 developer is made by Clayton Photo-chemistry and is the same as their F-76 Plus developer. Lowell Huff will be able to confirm this.<br>

http://www.claytonchem.com/pdfs/Darkroom/PBF76PLUSFILMDEVELOPER.pdf<br>

You can find the times for F-76 Plus on the Digital-Truth website.</p>

<p>I believe it is using the slowest rotation speed that is causing the problem. Use the rotation speeds recommended by Jobo and see if that makes a difference.<br>

Alternatively, set the rotation speed to 'P' for the first 60-90 seconds, then back to the speed you used previously.<br>

That is if you are using a CPA2 or CPP2 processor.</p>

<p>Major Black asked: "I am going to do some studio still life work, black and white, 120 and I want to be able to make big prints, say 36x36".</p>

<p>If you're going to scan negatives and make inkjet prints, then you might as well use a colour negative film like Fuji Reala or Kodak Ektar 100 and then convert the image to B&W in Photo-Shop. You will get finer-grained images that way.<br /> B&W films are designed to be enlarged or contacted on to photographic papers and grain is more evident with them when they are scanned.</p>

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<p>Jon, the images you posted appear to be under-exposed. Try about a stop extra and then carefully bracket another half to one stop extra, other wise, they're interesting images. A bit more depth of field would also make a difference.<br>

Some fill-in light would be useful to help with excessive contrast and to provide more detail in the shadows.</p>