rjm photo

Thought I have been using different filters for B&W photography for almost 50 years, I have to honestly admit that I am surprised with the responses to this question. Do users of digital cameras use filters for convenience or just greater consistency knowing the particular results a certain filter will provide (rather than using color sliders in photoshop)? I have a few decent digital cameras and the few B&W shots I have taken with these I made adjustments prior to printing. I do shoot 75% B&W but it is all film.

<p>Kent - Currently owning and using all the Nikon F series professional cameras except the F6, I would have to recommend the F2AS. I have more than a few F's and a couple of F2's and after all is said, to hold and use the F2 is a special experience. I had Nikon in southern California CLA my F3HP a couple of years ago, but I just don't trust the electronics..and I find F3's more quirky than the F5 or F4 and even the F2, if the battery fails the camera is unusable expect for one shutter speed. The F2 has a stepless shutter in a certain range and allows for 1/2000 and well as fairly long exposures. It shares a few parts with the "F" and I feel there will always be parts and resources to inexpensively get them repaired (when they require repair which is a rare occasion). I have an M6TTL as well as M2 and screwmount Leicas and nice as they are, they require scheduled maintenance by a Leica technician - which can be very expensive and a PIA. A CLA on an F2 will last for years. I don't think the exposure meter on the M6TTL is anymore effective than even the simplest DP-1 or DP-11 finder on the F2....besides you don't seem to have much of an issue with exposure anyway. Your appreciation of older equipment just makes me believe you would welcome a decent F2. F2AS or any of the F2 varients are still not very expensive.</p>

I actually own the 35mm AFD F2 lens and I have gotten excellent results with it. It was nikons go to 35 mm lens for a long time. I have found it completely satisfactory throughout it range. To say it is poor until F8 is incorrect. The 17 mm Tokina is a favorite of mine but it is large comparatively speaking and heavy, especially with the mandatory hood. I would consider the 20mm AFD also if you are looking for a smaller versatile lenses. People like to call that a poor lens also but why would Nikon still be producing them today? It is a reasonably smaller lens with hood and very good on Dx. I have had excellent results on my D200 with the above as well as with FX D700 and film Nikon F5 and F4. These older lens can give excellent results and they are small and work on both DX and FX formats should you decide one day to try a wider format. I second the recommendation of the 85 F2 AI and 105 AI as small and capable of excellent results from currently owning and using those. Best of all for the above lenses they are now inexpensive.

<p>Paul I just added a very nice IIF Red Dial (late model) and also a similarly nice III (1938) to give company to my IIIF - I take one with me every day. Screwmount Leica cameras are alive and well.</p>

<p>I have an early '60s Rollei T (75mm Tessar F3.5) which gives me excellent results. I purchased three years ago a Rollei E3 with the 3.5 Xenotar (which has the improved taking lens with the extra lens element).<br> The E3 gives me extraordinary results with quality color film or black and white, simply superb edge to edge sharpness and the color is amazing.<br> I bought a Hasselblad 500 C/M about five years ago with 80mm C Planar and several other lenses including 50mm FLE. The Hasselblad is very clunky, loud, and really should be on a tripod to come anywhere near the sharpness of my Rolleiflex E3. I handhold my film Leicas at 1/8 second and routinely get camera shake fee results - the Hasselblad though is another animal and if it is going to be used less than 1/250th you need a tripod. It probably would be best used in a studio or in situation out of doors where, again, a tripod is available.<br> I would get the Hasselblad only if you really intend to use the camera with lenses other than the really excellent 80mm Planar.</p>

<p>I bought a 3 cam 50mm Summicron R to use on my Nikon D700. It is one of the finest lenses I have ever used. Get one and when you decide to move to something else from the R4 you can use the Summicron R by changing the mount.</p>

<p>David<br> Rollei made the "Rolleilux" swing out light meter for the Rolleiflex T. The meter hinges on a lens hood that bayonets on the taking lens and swings inside the lens hood for storage. Try googling this option and email me. I have one that came with my Rollei T.</p>

<p>I'd like to find someone to restitch Rolleiflex cases. I've tried the local shoe repair, there used to be several people on the net who would do restitching. I have nice cases for my E3 and "T" which I would love to use on occasion if I could get them restitched.</p>

<p>I purchased a 300mm F4 AFS Nikon lens from AMAZON three or four years ago and at that time they were an authorized NIKON USA dealer. When I bought my D700 it was between AMAZON and B&H and the latter at one point briefly offered free shipping so I bought it from them (B&H).</p>

<p>and</p><div></div>

<p>at least it is pretty easy to use taking pictures of flight...</p><div></div>

<p>I have both the 4.5 AI with the "square"opening at the lens mount end, and the 80-200 two ring AFD. While the F2.8 lens is faster and is autofocus, making it more convenient to use, the AI lens is an outstanding performer at 1/10 the cost of the faster lens.</p><div></div>

Still have my NIKON F which I purchased new in 1967. I get rid of Leica cameras when they get to be problematic, I sell lenses I don't use very often, especially aftermarket brands, I try and buy only benchmark Nikon digital cameras new (D700, D200) and they are generally worth keeping after newer versions are introduced. I buy used Nikon film cameras (recently an F5) because they are so inexpensive and great fun to use and I don't think their $ value will be much less than what I paid for them

<p>Abandoned gas station from the '30s on the old coast to coast US 40.</p><div></div>

<p>As long as we're talking tires here.....</p><div></div>

Steve - the 24-70mm AFS-G lens is a fabulous tool. I use mine on a D700 as well as F5. Works extremely well with digital or film. I have many AFD, AIS , AI and non- AI lenses to use that are covered by this zoom but the latest design and coatings ( Nano) technologies for the glass give this lens, image quality that is far beyond the rest. It is a pleasure to use when conditions are not favorable to changing lenses and, the undeniable weight of the lens allows for very low shutter speeds especially when ISO is limited with film. I'll keep mine.

<p>Biogon Portrait</p><div></div>

<p>Kids</p><div></div>

It does come though, with an absolutely terrific "kit" lens, one of the best in any type of photography

I use a 135 Hektor with my m6TTL with no issues of back focus I use old Leitz accessory viewfinder with it ( for multiple focal lengths )

<p>Ron<br> It so happens I am using my Contax IIA and 21 Carl Zeiss Biogon F4.5 for the last 10 days...until I use up two rolls of film.<br> Before you mount the lens you need to make certain that the red dot on the inside most portion of the lens lines up with the red dot on the mounting boss of the lens.....the portion of the interior part of the lens (inner most element) will rotate to make this happen....<br> then make certain the camera body is focused to infinity (via the focusing wheel) and make certain that the lens is focused to infinity before you attempt to mount the lens....<br> then carefully stick the lens in the body in a position so when first inserted the red dot on the flange of the camera body lens mount lines up with the red dot on the lens mounting flange....<br> when inserted full, twist the lens counter - clockwise (looking at the camera) until the lens mount clicks. Now the red dot on the lens should be at the 12:00 position. If it is not, you didn't make certain the camera body was focused at infinity before you tried to mount the lens.<br> Mounting it like you have will sometimes make the lens very difficult to take off without damaging the body or the lens....if it gets to that point, it is time to send it to a technician to dismount the lens without casuing further damage.<br> Every time you remove a lens (other than the 50mm) the camera's focusing collar will have to be brought back to infinity before you mount another lens (also pre-focused to infinity).<br> Congrats on the 21mm F4.5 Carl Zeiss Biogon, this lens, introduced in 1954, is probably one of the top five lenses ever developed for photographic purposes. It is capable of helping you produce stunning results.<br> Bob</p> <p> </p>

<p>Kent<br> That's a great shot!</p>

<p>Bicycle event</p><div></div>

<p>..some very old palm trees</p><div></div>

<p>another...with Contax IIA</p><div></div>