User_1172872

<p>If the Sigma is a variable aperture zoom the f/22 setting is probably only relevant to the 28mm focal length where the maximum aperture might be f/3.5; at 80mm the maximum aperture is probably f/5.6 so the minimum aperture is correspondingly smaller. Not sure if these exact numbers apply to your lens but the principle idea works for all variable aperture zooms.</p>

<p>The AV-1 is strictly aperture priority. As you change apertures from 1.8 to 22 the shutter speed should change accordingly. But the A setting just locks the aperture at 22 for cameras that have shutter priority.<br>

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_AV-1</p>

<p>From experience, my recommendation is don't even think about it. Some years ago, a local camera store had a bin of US $5 lenses, afflicted with various problems, mostly fungus. I bought and disassembled 4 of them. I was able to reassemble one, which [ignoring the value of my time] I sold for just enough to cover my expenditure. With respect to your lens in particular please don't assume the problem is limited to the dent in the ring. It's also possible the focus helix is out-of-round due to the lens having been dropped. If so, you may be only worse off after an attempted repair. </p>

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<p>I know the F Photomic meters of that era used a big rotary resistor that's noted for wearing out or getting dirty in certain spots, resulting in erratic readings. It would not surprise me if the Nikkormat meter is similar. </p>

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<p>Having owned a pair of Nikkormats bought long after they were discontinued I can tell you that is certainly correct. When the problem first appears, it can be intermittent. </p>

<p>Canon. As far as I know Canon has never refused to service grey market items. That seems to be a Nikon peculiarity.</p>

 

<p>Since the A7ii is 'full frame' you don't need the Metabones adapter. Just a simple, glassless mechanical adapter Canon FD to Sony. For example: http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Adapter-Lenses-E-mount-Mirrorless/dp/B003Y302CG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1456688380&sr=8-3&keywords=fotodiox+sony+adapter [Disclaimer: I have no connection to Fotodiox or the vendor.]<br>

The Metabones is a 'focal length reducer' [astronomers term] to preserve the angle of view on crop sensor cameras. Why would you want to the use the 85 FD lenes on MFT when you have a Sony A7ii?</p>

<p>I wouldn't expect a bona fide 4800 dpi from a flatbed scanner. Not surprised your result from the RB67 is superior. Suggest you check the Vuescan settings. If the grain reduction is set too high and the scan is over-sharpened, you may get the results that you describe.</p>

<p>It isn't necessarily for a Mamiya. I had a Nikon porroprism for a twin lens Rollei. Lightweight but a smaller and dimmer image than the real thing. </p>

<p>By any chance do you also have the 8x30 monocular that could be used as a 400mm telephoto?</p>

The 28-70 AF(variable aperture) lens had a good reputation, at least considering the price point. It was the first inexpensive lens to

incorporate an (molded glass) aspheric element..

<p>Contarex Professional?</p>

<p>I had an SQ-ai that had a battery drain problem. If I left it unused and turned off for several weeks the batteries went dead. I sent it to an authorized repair center ... they kept it for several weeks and could not reproduce the problem! Easy enough to remove the batteries. Notwithstanding my experience, if I wanted to shoot medium format film again I would not hesitate to buy another. As another person commented, just keep a pocket full of spares! In my opinion the Bronica SQ-a and SQ-ai are the best value in medium form today. Just be aware that the electronics will not last forever and the cameras have been out of production for a while. </p>

<p>Shun, thank you for the update. Essentially shutter priority is the same as manual mode, and program mode is the same as aperture priority on these earlier bodies.</p>

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<p>I have mounted the 300mm/f4 E PF AF-S VR on the F100, and it is essentially the same situation. You have a fixed 300mm f4 lens that is always at f4 and cannot be stopped down.</p>

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<p>Shun,<br>

Could you describe how the camera behaves in each of the modes? I.e., do you have to set the camera to aperture priority to take a picture? What happens if you attempt to set a smaller aperture? Does the display remain at F/4 even though you turn the dial? What happens if you set the camera to shutter priority? Can you release the shutter at all or does it lock up and prevent you from taking a picture?<br>

Thanks in advance, I am curious how such a lens might function on one of the older digital cameras.</p>

<p>If you go from ISO 100 to ISO 400 the guide number doubles. The change is equivalent to two stops. So if the correct aperture is 5.6 at ISO 100 the correct aperture changes to 11 at ISO 400. At the same distance the gn would have to double.</p>

<p>I used an SB-24 in ttl mode with an F100 for many years, no problem. If you divide the guide number by the aperture used that will give you the distance at which the subject will be correctly exposed ... more or less. The stated guide number is based on an assumption of a subject of 'average' reflectance indoors in an 'average' room or something like that. Not to worry, though, I found the ttl metering of the F100 worked quite well.</p>

<p>Glen is correct, E. Leitz and Zeiss patents were placed in the public domain by the Allied Control Commission at the end of WWII. However the placement of the shutter release appeared on the Leica M2/M3 - 1954? Perhaps E. Leitz was simply confident that the SLR was just a passing fad...</p>

<p>Update: I have discovered that the SX50 will trigger the Vivitar 285 in green 'auto' and 'scene' modes. (Two modes that I never use.) It will not however trigger the 285 in P/Tv/A/M modes, or 'sports' mode. Since it seems highly unlikely that my camera would be defective with such a specific outcome, I conclude this is indeed a design feature as Adrian suggests. However, Canon's logic eludes me - a non-dedicated flash can only be used in certain modes that are restricted to jpeg but prevented in modes that allow raw files?</p>

<p>Thank you for sharing. As a college student I purchased a used SR-3 that I used with satisfaction for many years. Some random thoughts - does yours have a split-image or plain ground glass? - does the aperture open immediately, or only when you wind the film? [That was a characteristic of the body, not the lens.] An interesting feature of the early SR series - no foam in the back. The door had a 'double lip' design instead. And I wonder how they got away with the placement of the shutter release - in the center of the wind lever - without being sued for patent infringement by E. Leitz!</p>

<p>Fred, thank you. That is an excellent point. I had assumed the contact would be "live" for the duration of the exposure but there's no reason for that. Also, I should have mentioned, the camera works fine with Canon EX flash units. Why it doesn't work with non-dedicated units baffles me, however I don't know how the Canon units are triggered - there are four other contacts in the shoe.</p>

<p>My Canon SX50 will not trigger either my Vivitar 285 or my Sunpak 622 super. Is this normal behavior? My ohm meter shows no change in resistance between the center contact and the shoe itself when the shutter is triggered. I used a long exposure (> 1 sec) so it's not a matter of slow response by my meter. I have tried every possible permutation and combination of settings I can think of, including raising the internal flash. Just can't get the external, non-dedicated flashes to fire. Each works just fine on other cameras. Any ideas?</p>

<p>I believe Fuji was one of the first, if not the first, to use a gallium photodiode (is that the correct terminology?) as an alternative to the CDS cell. But I can't remember whether it appeared on their M42 cameras. There was also a Chinon 'Memotron' series that implemented aperture priority auto exposure by setting the shutter speed after the aperture closed. See the link here:<br>

https://www.cameraquest.com/slr42ae.htm</p>

<p>It's possible the combination just won't work well. The following may be of interest:<br>

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2014/06/sensor-stack-thickness-when-does-it-matter<br>

Short version: every digital camera has a 'sensor stack' consisting of the anti-alias and IR cutoff filters. The sensor stack varies in thickness among camera brands, which <strong><em>may</em> </strong>affect the results when using lenses of different brands via adapters.</p>

<p>Learn to enjoy bird photography. Not kidding. Birders travel from all over to visit Ramsey Canyon and Carr Canyon. Ramsey Canyon (Nature Conservancy property) is just outside of town.</p>

<p>I recommend a Nikon n8008 over the FE/FE2/FG. Less expensive than the FE or FE2. US $ prices seem to be about the same as an FG. N8008 Uses 4 ubiquitous AA batteries. Reads the DX code. Small window to reveal film type. Motorwind, motorized rewind. 1/250 flash sync and 1/8000 top speed. High eyepoint viewfinder. Will not meter with pre-AI lenses, but neither does the FG or FE2. (The little tab doesn't flip out of the way.) The only difficult part is finding the split image screen for manual focus lenses. Spend a little more for the N8008s and you get spot metering! If you are left eye dominant, note that one turns on the meter on an FE2 by pulling the wind lever away from the body. Always felt like I was going to poke myself in the right eye even though I never did. FE does not have ttl flash metering.</p>