patrick tom

Hello...I've yet to have seriously scratched my front element...thank goodness...from what I've read...unless it's a serious scratch it won't affect imaging all that much...cost to change front element is about 300 bucks...good luck

Yes you both are right it is a 20d and I do want to shoot sunset/sunrise stuff...I've thought about selling the 17-85is...but it is a good range and size for street shooting...

I'm debating which lens for some landscape photography...24-70 ef

or 28-75 tamron or maybe just stick with the 17-40f4...I've been

considering some primes instead maybe a 24 f2.8 and a 35 f2...are

they superior to those zooms as far as sharpness and lens

flare...some people seem to think the 17-40f4 is as good as any of

the wide primes...I prefer to go with tamron or the 24-70 just

because I'm missing that range in a sharp image but if the 17-40f4 is

sharper and more flare resistant I'll go with it...I'm a little

resistant to the 17-40 just because I have a 10-22 efs and the 17-85

efs is...the 17-85 has too much flare for my taste...it seems

redundant to get the 17-40...Thanks...

I'm debating which lens for some landscape photography...24-70 ef

or 28-75 tamron or maybe just stick with the 17-40f4...I've been

considering some primes instead maybe a 24 f2.8 and a 35 f2...are

they superior to those zooms as far as sharpness and lens

flare...some people seem to think the 17-40f4 is as good as any of

the wide primes...I prefer to go with tamron or the 24-70 just

because I'm missing that range in a sharp image but if the 17-40f4 is

sharper and more flare resistant I'll go with it...I'm a little

resistant to the 17-40 just because I have a 10-22 efs and the 17-85

efs is...the 17-85 has too much flare for my taste...it seems

redundant to get the 17-40...Thanks...

Hello...don't feel like calling up Canon...but does this mean that I can go get a new one and it'll be ok...or will I have to buy one then get it repaired if it is problematic...Thanks

Hello I looked at something that would hold my 70-200f4...I believe the zoom toploaders would hold the it but not much else...try the lowepro off road...it is holster style...and 2 detachable zoom lens holder bags...I use on of them to actually put my 580ex flash in...the main bag can fit 70-200f4 and 20d attached...as well as other your other lenses...it'll get a bit snug with all your stuff in it if you don't use the lens holder bag...the downside...it doesn't have AW...you'll probably be ok unless your in real bad weather...in which case carry weather bags...I love the detachability of the lens bags...good luck...

My best suggestion is to look at the magazine shoot outs in your choice of periodicals and go for it...the dslr has so much more control than the p and s...shutter lag would be annoying if you are street shooting, people are moving constantly and you will want to shoot instantaneously...if size is your main concern look at the smaller dslr...the Canon Xt is pretty small and you can probably snap about 20 frames off before you get two off by the p and s...You can buy online...buy both at the same time try them out for a time and return what you don't like...Good luck...

Thanking people for all their kind help is a worthy post. I know the forum isn't really set up for kindness but it's certainly always

welcomed...good go John...

Hello just to let you know there is a new Nikon coming out at the end of the month...I don't know any of the details as there haven't been many...look here....

http://www.dpreview.com/news/0503/05033105nikond50real.asp

sorry that's a 28-75 tamron

Hello...I don't think you need another wide angle...the kit lens would cover 18-55mm...you will need a longer lens for sport photography...the 70-200 f2.8 is actually considered one of best portrait zooms so it could actually serve both sports and portraiture...the 24-70 would be a great lens to have...but that would render the 18-55 as a backup lens without a good sports shooter...maybe you can convince your boss to let you get a Tamron 28-70 and 70-200 f4...the Tamron is highly rated as well as the 70-200 f4...with ability to use higher iso settings and noise cleaning software...you should be able to get some decent shots off...hope this helps...

The sensor dirt...as far as I know doesn't manifest itself in the way of softness...dirt on the sensor...you can see that if you stop down to say f11 or so and shoot into the sky...you'll see the dirt...do at your risk...if you haven't seen the dirt...you're better off not knowing it's there...you'll start cleaning the sensor...and were talking about another ballgame...my .02 is to try manually focusing on a single flower...and see what that yields...btw...I didn't know the 24-70l was a macro...if you're trying to use it as a macro...you might be just shooting beyond its minimal focal distance which you can find in your manual or on line...Good luck...hope this helps

sorry this is the bad efs

sorry that with the 70-200f4l this one is with the bad 10-22 efs<div></div>

sorry I'm looking a lens to shoot landscape mostly...so I don't really need any extra speed for that...but I know I'm looking for a lowlight lens as well...my 17-85 seems to be serving me pretty well indoors especially with IS, during parties zooms are so helpful...people are always moving...the quality of my photos exceeds most people expectations...I have a 50f2.5 macro but that doesn't really like lowlight situations nor does the 70-200 f4...so back to the 17-85 is I go...but I want to experiment with another wide angle...most of the non-l lens primes are fairly inexpensive...I'll probably get a couple of them...right now I'm just interested in a prime to cover the work load of the missing 10-22 efs which is used for landscape...the 17-85 efs doesn't really cut the mustard when I'm in landscape as it tends to flare when I'm shooting into the sunset...and a working 10-22 efs is sharper and has more contrast than the 17-85...sorry about the long post...ps...I've been shooting a lot of sunsets lately...theyre actually my favorite things to shoot...but you can always get a lot of different shots out of a beautiful sunset...close ups and wideshots hence the questions on both lenses...thanks again here are shots in pt reyes,ca...one with bad 10-22 efs<div></div>

Hello...I have a 10-22 efs...but it looks like I'm going to have

to send it in to Canon as I landed on the lens in an accident...I was

wondering which of the wide prime lenses would be a good addition to

that lens...I'm kind of interested in a lens that is better in

contrast and sharpness...but not too pricey...has anyone compared the

wider primes against the 10-22 efs...I guess it kind of difficult

since the 10-22 efs is beyond the primes in the way of coverage...any

opinions or experience would be appreciated...thanks

I have a 70-200l f4...when I shoot into the sun during sunset I

notice a lot of flaring...I was wondering if a prime 300 f4 is would

improve over the flaring or perhaps a shorter telephoto...maybe 135

f2 would be better to reduce flaring...the reason I want either 300

or 135..I'd like to have other uses for the lens either a portrait

shooter or a wildlife shooter...I know the 300mm won't be

enough...I'll probably want to add a 1.4 tc and the 135mm might be a

bit long on a 20d...thanks ps I guess the end question is which is

the best flare resistant telephoto primes or could another zoom

telephoto do the trick for shooting into the light...Thanks

Thanks all...I'm probably going to have it serviced...although it works I think I want Canon to take a look at it...sharpess is a bit off...Now I might have an excuse to add the 350d...plus smallness much better for street photography...20d looks too pro-like to be incognito...thanks again...here's an image post fall with 10-22 efs

Remind me not to clean tripod and walk at the same time...I was a

little too concerned with my bogen/manfrotto tripod...I was trying to

wipe it down while walking...I slipped on an icy log and landed

(185lbs of bonehead male) smack on 20d and 10-22 efs lens...I landed

on the camera, lens taking force flush against path...I felt pain in

my side as the camera jammed against my body. I couldn't tell if the

fall had cause damage or the horror of the glass on the ground had

cramped up my stomach. I walked to my car(20 yards away) and started

to test the camera...the lens wouldn't focus...it was bent...I

quickly put another lens on...it focused and shot...I looked to see

if the image was ok...20d keeps on ticking...Canon has made one

strong camera...I looked at the lens more carefully...it was bent but

I was able to snap it back into place...It focused and shot...my lens

cap looks mangled...my hoya filter was what smashed into bits...moral

of the story...don't walk and clean tripod at same time...worrying

about a 300buck tripod and not minding a $1500 camera and $900 lens

not to mention human body(priceless) is not one of the brighter paths

taken...my filter ring is stuck on the lens...any suggestions on how

to get it off...thanks...

Hello Philip...there isn't going to be a lot of difference unless you shoot out of the range of the built in flash(wide shots included) the ettl2 takes care of exposure...the difference will be if you go off-camera, bounce flash, or use a stofen omnibounce, two flash set ups,three flash or more...you are right it is complex...Good luck Patrick

Hi I was wondering if anyone has heard of a 100-300f5.6 macro

(non l lense)...Is it a good lense? that is if there is such an

animal...Thanks

sorry that's "down a mountainside"

it means you can drop the lens a moutainside and it has a good chance to survive(provided you use protection)...lense hood or filter

 

see earlier post.http://www.photo.net/shared/community-member?user_id=414091.. little mishap with 100-400l lens

Try the lowepro off road...it has a main bag as well as two detacheable zoom lens bags...you can put a 580ex flash in a zoom lens bag or a 70-200l f4...it has a belt and over the shoulder strap...I also have a mini trekker bp which isn't as lens changing friendly...Good luck...

Well images posted on the net...do not compare with prints...after all if you are compressing images to about the same size...wont you get similar dynamic color range...the dynamic range is one of things affected by the higher iso...you wouldn't be able to see subtle or even large differences as you would on a high resolution print...this is my guess...second...addressing Eric's pics...I do like the noisy images...for one thing...the urgency of the images are put back in the images and now they don't look like airbrushed models...other thing you might want to see if you can maybe bump the iso one more notch to get more dof...stop down a couple of stops...especially when the girls are moving fast...just because the focus is a bit off...the camera focused sharply on a girl in the very back and a girl in the middle ground...I'm guessing the girls are moving too fast and the dof is just deep enough to get one person in focus...it's kind of hit or miss...composing a fast action shot in a crowd of people becomes difficult if your dof is very shallow btw I don't know all that much about shooting sports...I'm just using educated guesses...It might be better to track someone in ai focus mode especially someone who you think gets the ball more...anticipating action...deeper dof...you could lower shutter speed occasionally and stopping down of course to get the dof...as well as the iso bump I mentioned before...shoot like a mad man...keep your finger glued to the shutter button...jpgs could help...greater dof would could fix some of the need for sharpening...if you find you like the greater dof...70-200f2.8 is might be a better lens for basketball or 28-135is for the budget minded...hope this helps...