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mal_thomas

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Posts posted by mal_thomas

  1. <p>Thanks for all the feedback. Appreciated.<br>

    Using Ilford's own tables of development times, it seems I can reduce the dev time for FP4+ to 05:00 mins at 24C/75F (currently using LC29 at 07:30, constant rotation, 20C/68F).<br>

    But if I change to DD-X, their own Development Chart states I can go 08:00 mins at 24C/75F (for FP4+) - no conversion necessary.<br>

    It drops down to 05:30 for Delta 400 too - which is what I am hanging out to develop. How lucky is that ? I just bought a bottle of DD-X the other week :-)<br>

    I need to run some tests methinks.</p>

    <p>Cheers<br>

    Mal<br>

    Oz</p>

  2. <p>Thanks Sandy,<br>

    Am able to easily manage the temp of the chems, as you say, add cold/warm water baths as required. <br>

    But do you think if the room itself is a bit warmer it will have any detrimental effect ? I can experiment of course, but I have a roll of 120 I am keen to develop from a recent trip, so I don't want to spoil it. would rather wait till the weather cools :-)<br>

    Cheers<br>

    Mal<br>

    Oz</p>

  3. Hello,

    I understand the chemicals need to be at 20C (68F). I always ensure all my solutions are at this temp..no drama there.

     

    Now on cooler days it is easy to maintain my ambient room temperature at very close to the same temps.

     

    However it is mid summer now (temps around 38C-40C+) and, even with the whole house AC on, it is very difficult and expensive to get

    the room down to anywhere near those temps.

     

    So, my question is, whilst I always use my chems at 20C(68F), how critical is the ambient room temp? I can easily get my developing

    room down to 24C(75F) on most really hot days. Is this ok, or do I need to wait for cooler days to develop my films?

     

    Cheers

    Mal,

    Oz.

     

    (Ilford films, 35mm and 120, Ilford chems, Rondinax 35U and 60 daylight tanks)

  4. Might not help you, but it might give you a hint on where to start looking. I had fogging on my Canoscan D660U. The glass platter is easily removed by carefully prying the front of the glass frame up and away from the body. The frame will just pop up. When both sides of the frame have 'popped' up. stop ! The glass is just stuck with double sided tape to the frame - to much prying and the glass may come away from the frame too much.

     

    Now go to the end of the platter near the hinge area. There are 2 semi-circular buttons. I just depressed these in and pushed the whole platter assembly forward. It just popped out. I cleaned using an Enjo glove an water only.

     

    As I said, this was for a Canoscan D660U, but other scanners may have similar bits you can push or pry.

     

    Cheers

    Mal

    Oz

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