mal_thomas

Richard, I didn't think so either. They were fresh batteries, well , they were in a new pack with a decent expiry date. However, looking at the battery meter today after getting home from work, I do note the MF28 is reporting only 50% charge remaining...mmmm... maybe the batteries are shot. The LCD is still nice and bright but will explore that idea further. Will clean the contacts a bit with a fibre glass brush too - the MF28 probably not been used for some time before i got it..contacts might need brightening up as someone mentioned earlier. ta :-)

Thanks Joe, yup probably would be just as easy to use my mobile phone! But with the MF28 and the Meta35 software I can get the shooting data and capture time in a nice format in the one file. Once the roll is done and images scanned I can then use the same Meta35 software to merge that data file (plus some other metadata that I can add manually into the file) into the scanned image files' EXIF data fields. Previously I used a pencil and notepad and manually updated the images. Didn't like that process and I was always losing pencils or forgot to update the notebook ! :-)

well, sorry for the delay..... ok the MF-28 is now on the F5 - had to wait to finish a roll before attaching. So all good. set the time and date on the MF28. Magic. Shot of few test shots. Hooked up the camera to the META35 software on my Mac and lo and behold was able to extract all the shooting data AND the frame capture date and time into a standard "" delimited text file. Open this file using excel and you get a nice little spreadsheet of the data. All good. Impressed and happy. Question for those who may have used the MF-28 before. I set the date and time into the MF-28 before I loaded the test roll of film. when I loaded the film and closed the back again the time and date reset to the default date and time 1996-01-01. I don't have the original Nikon user manual for the MF28 only the pages at the MIR website. Is this normal behaviour...seems odd if it is.... The MF28 appears to work fine, LCD is bright and all expected data fields are present etc, but having to set the date/time for each new roll is a PITA I must confess... any insights would be appreciated. p.s yes fresh batteries in the MF28 and 75% charge in the F5 batteries so don't think this is the issue. Thanks

Thank you Henry for the manual link, much appreciated. I also contacted Meta35. With the MF-28 installed on the F5, you can indeed record the date/time stamp each frame was taken within the F5 internal memory along with the default exposure data the F5 already captures. Meta35 is also designed to extract all this data from the camera at a later date and to write all this metadata to the scanned image file. The screen image above was kindly sent to me by Meta35 last night... So yes, what i want to do is possible albiet rather expensive (MF-28 back and Meta35)....the benefit is that i dont need to keep remembering to write all this stuff down in my note books out in the field....i always seem to lose the damn pencil anyway Thank you for all the replies. Once all the kit arrives and i have had a chance to have a fiddle with it all i'll post some notes on the experience....if anyone is interested. Again, thanks.

Thanks. Had already placed an order for Meta35 before my query - need it anyway - looks like a decent alternative to the original Photo Secretary. If the Meta35 just scrapes the same addresses within the F5 that Photo Secretary did, then if the MF-28 adds that date/time field into the same register then yes, I think we could be right....will find one way or another in a few weeks when the MF-28 and software arrives ...:-) I might pose a question them anyway - I must say I am curious.

Thank you for replying.... I think you are correct. The Nikon MF-28 is primarily designed to imprint exposure data on the film between frames. But the nikon F5 Photo Secretary manual seems to imply that if the MF-28 back is installed, the time stamp is also stored with the frame data that is captured within the F5 itself. Nikon Photo Secretary is (was) used to extract exposure data from the F5 using the PC sync cable to a Windows PC, which by default included frame exposure data but not the time stamp the frame was shot. I think attaching the MF-28 added that field. I cant find a mf-28 manual as yet and i dont have a copy of photo secretary to confirm.... i'll keep plodding on, if i come up with something, i'll post what i find...thanks again.

Have an F5. Would really like to record date/time images were taken so I can line them up with separate GPS data for 'semi-automated' geo tagging. A couple of questions if I may for those who are more familiar with the MF28... 1. From what I have read in the Nikon manuals - the MF28 will add the ability to insert the Date and Time stamp to the exposure data that is captured and stored in the F5 - assuming I have the correct Custom Setting "B"** set to record both Exposure Data from the Camera and Date/Time from the MF28 - True or False ? (** referring to p15 Nikon Photo Secretary User Manual) 2. I can use something like Meta35 to extract this date/time and exposure data to a Mac ? 3. Is it still viable to buy a MF28 back given the reported issues of the fading LCD's ? Thanks

Had mine for just a week from a dealer in Japan. I have a D7100 as my go to body, but i think it'll take a back seat for a bit; despite its heft, the F5 feels so nice to hold, and, it just sounds so right ! Oh yes, the locks on the various buttons are taking a bit of getting used to :-)

For those who are curious about the rondinax 60 daylight tank, here is a quick video of it in use.... The paper backing is deftly removed from the 120 film before the film is immersed in chemicals. I use these tanks exclusively for my B/W 35mm and 120 format film. I find they work extremely well. Good ones come up now and again on places like eBay, but can be pricey. Cheers Mal

Not used or seen the AP style loader before. I understand the potential issues with the felt light trap used in other types, such as my LPL Dayroll. So, how does the AP style loader block light from leaking in ? Thanks

<p>Thats useful. Thanks. yes well thats good to know that manufacturing was alive and well at some time in our past :-) but no sign of any other symbols on the two rolls i shot this week. I do think the film is stuffed though, so I might pull it out of the loader and see if there is a date on the spool......we'll see :-)</p>

<p>...and then at 7m 45s @ 68F...</p><div></div>

<p>Not sure how it was stored. but I'd suggest not in ideal circumstances. Anyway here are a couple of negs, raw off the scanner. Too far gone I think - at least for my skill set :-) ... only got 16 rolls under my belt to date !</p> <p> </p><div></div>

<p>There's probably a date inside on the roll - won't know till its used up. I use DD-X as I mostly shoot Ilford. Not used expired film before so this is all basically an experiment and a learning op. </p> <p>I'll see how it scans up later and see if its worth doing a couple more rolls with different dev parameters. i might even try it in LC29 which is what have used previously on HP5.</p>

<p>Hi Glen,<br> looks foggy. can't look too closely yet, still drying. </p> <p>I increased the dev time on the second roll, no discernible difference that i can tell from the drying film. <br> Knowing where the film came from I'd suggest this film was not stored properly - possibly subjected to extremes of heat/cold. Although the bulk loader it came in was pristinely clean on the outside. will post some negs later once I can touch them.</p>

<p>This mob in the uk sells DX coded labels for blank 35mm cartridges. They work well.. I have used the 400 version to date.<br> http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/film/bulk-b-w-film/c39 <br> P.S. not affiliated, just a happy customer.</p> <p>On the subject of what tape I use.... FWIW..I use Gaffa tape (or your local equivalent) as it is so damn sticky I can get away with the smallest piece. No risk of the film coming away at the end of the roll. Usually I have about 6mm (1/4" or so) on each of the the spool and the film - so about 1/2" total length.<br> Samples below...</p> <p> </p><div></div>

<p>I acquired a bulk loader with some Kodak Tri-X Pan in it. Tri-X Pan was redesignated to 400TX around 2007 I think. Film edge has 'KODAK TRI-X PAN FILM' and 'KODAK SAFETY FILM'.</p> <p>Anyway I can narrow down the age of this film stock ?</p> <p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Mike suggested.... "....you might want to try a less expensive expired bulk load if you can find one for cheap before spending 50 to over 100 USD for a fresh bulk roll."<br> <br> Indeed ! My loader has what we believe to be a very old roll of Tri-X in it - got the roll and loader for AUD$20 (less than a pack of smokes).<br> So I'm in front I think even if the film is bad. We'll find out this weekend when I develop a couple of rolls. Plus, if I get 24 frames, I'll know how the counter works too :-)<br> <br> Cheers<br> <br> </p>

It does indeed, thanks. But the LPL version has an exposure counter on the rear. I wanted to find out how to use this; set to "S" or "0" before winding the film into the canister ? But i think I worked it out, am assuming "S" stands for Start (which is 5 frames before the "0" which allows for 5 frames to be added to each cassette to allow for loading the film into the camera). Appreciate the link and reply.... Thanks. Cheers Mal Oz.

<p>Jim replied earlier... "Not sure what "multi highlighter" is, but may be a multi exposure (double exposure) switch"...</p> <p>...I concur, page 6 of the "Mamiya 645 Super Manual" shows this to be the Multiple-Exposure Lever.</p> <p>This feature is explained in more detail on page 27 of the same manual. Essentially, it disengages the multiple exposure protection mechanism when the two white marks are aligned. </p> <p>Cheers<br> Mal<br> Oz</p>

<p>Good evening,<br> Have scoured the internet for a copy of the manual for this old bulk loader. No luck.<br> If any body has one they can scan and share or know of a link to an online copy - i'd appreciate it.</p> <p>Thanks.</p> <p>Cheers<br> Mal<br> Oz.</p><div></div>

Indeed.....but don't have the correct size for that lens........yet :-)) Thanks Mal Oz

<p>Great feedback, much appreciated. I think I might have miscommunicated my query though, my apologies.<br />I know how to fix the 'flatness' of the image with the scanner/ post software. What I was hoping for was to get a better negative in the first place.</p> <p>Someone mentioned lightning.... yes, it was around 1pm and the sun up very high off the right of the image (North). I am facing due West. It is hard to get the sun lower in the sky at this time of year in that spot as there is only about a 80 yard gap between the building I was standing on and the subject building. Much earlier or later in day then the whole plaza is in dark shadow. If I come back at a different time of year when the sun is lower in the sky, then the water fountains are off as its too cold and the people are missing :-) ..but this has given me something to ponder indeed, so thanks for that.</p> <p>Some said the neg/chemistry itself was fine, so am I expecting too much from my negs/chemistry and I just need to get used to making adjustments during the scanning or post processing ?</p> <p>Have attached the full neg with some post tweaks...looks much better...<br> Thanks again.<br />Cheers<br />Mal<br />Oz</p><div></div>

<p>Huh ?? I can see it..after second line of text ... what have I done...?</p><div></div>

<p>The image below is cropped from the 35mm neg. <br> Scanned at 3600 with no pre-processing or adjustments by the scanner (Canoscan 9000F MkII)<br> <img src="webkit-fake-url://e526374b-f024-4ccf-a691-1fdfa283859f/image.tiff" alt="" /><br> There was no post processing - this is the neg straight off the scanner.</p> <ul> <li>Film is HP5+</li> <li>Developed with 1:4 Ilford DD-X at 6m 30s at 24C/75F</li> <li>Continuous rotation in Rondinax 35U daylight tank</li> <li>Stopped with 1:19 Ilfostop at 20secs at 24C</li> <li>Fixed with 1:4 Ilford Hypam at 4m 00secs at 24C</li> <li>Washed 8 mins running tap.</li> <li>Ilfotol Rinse 1:200 @ 30secs</li> <li>Camera Nikon F55 in Aperture Priority mode; Auto Focus </li> <li>Lens AF Nikkor 20mm 1:2.8 D</li> </ul> <p>Now, apart from the focus looking a bit dodgy - the tonality of the image to me looks very flat, but with 'ok' blacks in the shadows. Something is wrong with my processing or something.<br> Ideas, slaps, suggestions all will be appreciated.<br> Am going to have a play with various scanner settings, but was hoping to avoid using these.<br> Cheers<br> Mal<br> Oz</p>