lightwriting by swapan

<p><strong>Bob,</strong><br /> I think I got it. Thanks for your article.<br /> MLU has nothing to do with it.<br /> Elementary physics of lens and focal plane!<br /> It is the change of the focal plane which moves behind or forward depending on where the initial focus is, that makes the subject go OOF and it is worse with lenses at short distances where DOF is shallow.. Also, I think the improved quality of the sensor and the lens exaggerate the problem being less forgiving!<br /> I am going to stop "focus lock and recompose" technique that I learnt so long ago ! I am going to use selective AF sensor(s) to focus my subject in such a way that I dont have to recompose.<br /> thanks again for your nice article.</p>

<p><strong>Sarah</strong>,<br /> Thank you for your time<br /> You nailed it right in # 4<br /> I disagree with you though when you said using MLU at 1/4th sec and shooting a human has something very wrong in technique. I have hundreds of portraits done this way, dozens of which have been blown to 40 X 60 inches without a problem! Just FYI, whenever my shutter is between 1/4 and 1/60, I use MLU -100% of the time.<br /> Also, 1/4sec at f5.6 indicates an EV of 7, the camera can go down to -1, meaning that it could AF correctly in 1/256th amount of light that was available to me at that time!(7 stops less light). So, that was not an issue either!<br /> <strong>Ruben,</strong><br /> I was in scenario one, you are right. Now I know, I should not expect the AF point to show where it WAS but will show where it IS !<br /> Robin,<br /> Are you kidding me ? MY camera IS a genius and more than that!<br /> Joke apart, why would it be misleading ? It would just show where I focused initially and would be better for me to evaluate my precision and accuracy along with the result!<br>

Wont be so easy for AI servo though- I want it only for single shot!</p>

<p><br /> Thanks again everybody- A puzzle solved for me!</p>

<p><strong>Bob,</strong><br>

I agree- the camera does NOT refocus but then, why is it happening?<br>

I dont remember noticing it in the past-even though I always use this technique.<br>

I am going to try the old trick, move to manual focus once I achieve the lock and then shoot and see what happens.<br>

Also, why does the AF rectangle is on the area where it was AFTER re-composition NOT where it was initially when focus was obtained.<br>

<strong>Sara,</strong><br>

The question is does it actually happen and if so, why does it happen when it should NOT happen or am I doing something wrong? Whether to use MLU or not is NOT the question.<br>

I have tried with inanimate objects with the same result.</p>

<p>BTW, This was with an 1Dx and 24-70L MK II combination.</p>

<p>Thanks<br>

Dholai</p>

<p>Does the focus shift to the new area where your AF point moves after you have recomposed and use the MLU (mirror lock up) ?</p>

<p>We all know that once you lock the focus by half pressing the shutter, it remains locked till the finger is lifted off it. When you use MLU, finger has to be lifted (after 1st push which lifts the mirror) to push the shutter again to take the picture. I knew that the focus should not shift at that time as the mirror is already up and the AF sensor is not getting any info!</p>

<p>Lately, I have seen multiple pictures where my subject is soft or OOF after recomposing and the info. on computer shows the AF point at the recomposed area, not on the original area(say a face) that I focused. The face is blurred but the background, where the AF is now, is in crisp focus</p>

<p>Shake was not an issue. They were shot with camera on a sturdy tripod with cable release. Subject did not move either! Shutter was between 1/4 and 1/60. Had aperture of 5.6 to have acceptable DOF.</p>

<p>What an I doing(thinking) wrong ?</p>

<p>I feel like a dumboo !</p>

<p>thanks</p>

<p>Dholai</p>

<p>Shooting with a 1 Ds MK III.<br>

Kingston Elite Pro CF card during shooting records the image but I am unable to view or download them. In camera shows a big yellow question mark and on computer screeen on Zoombrowser a question mark with yellow and black diagonal lines in the background.</p>

<p>Some shots are OK, most are corrupt.</p>

<p>What is at fault ? Camera ? Card ?</p>

<p>Happened with an SD card too.</p>

<p>Never happened in the past.</p>

<p>Any suggestions ?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Sorry, here is the Image</p>

<p><a href="../photo/13042592">http://www.photo.net/photo/13042592</a></p>

<p>Gurus,</p>

<p>Do you think this picture is sharp enough?</p>

<p>This is my cousins lens that I brought from India for servicing. The lens elements have been changed by Canon factory service as it had fungus in those.</p>

<p>To me the images now look unsharp! Crop form an 100% CR2 opened in PS. Converted to JPG of course.<br />No other alteration has been made.</p>

<p>As foar as technic goes- camera was on Tripod, cable release, MLU, iso 100, f16, 1/25sec,manual focus(confirmed by beep)</p>

<p>Sorry, I forgot, this is the180 mm f3.5L macro.</p>

<p>Your opinion please</p>

<p>Thanks<br>

<img src="../photo/13042592" alt="" /></p>

<p>Thanks everybody.</p>

<p>Do you think there is loss of quality if saturation is enhanced with software ? I can see I lose some fine details if I try to increase the saturation ( I mainly use Paint Shop Pro X2 for this purpose).</p>

<p>The PS is whole another issue which I would like to discuss some day. I dont like fake pictures- combined from 10 others to make it a perfect one- it makes it artificial too! Why do you need to shoot then- create one on your computer-I am sure you will be able to reproduce anything now a days without leaving your table and mouse!</p>

<p>If want want the best out of your gear and skill, which one would you prefer? Post production modification or use of appropriate filters?</p>

<p>e.g. Shoot a colorful flower, enhance color/saturation with software OR use a filter, say, the Singh-Ray Color intensifier(with or without polarization).</p>

<p>My question is, what will give you better result ? Expecting to hear from experts who have used both.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>P.S. Personally, I am not a Photoshop fan. I think the overuse of it as molestation of the picture!</p>

<p>Hi all,<br>

I have a problem.</p>

<p>I normally shoot with a tripod 99% of the time. Being from India, I do a lot of photography there when I visit my country. Tripods, in general are prohibited in any of the heritage buildings and obtaining a permission for it is almost impossible in my experience.</p>

<p>So, I have never obtained satisfactory results handheld. For example, I have visited the Taj Mahal at least 6 times, taken more than a thousand pictures, none acceptable and I have applied the best handheld technic I know!</p>

<p>What is an alternative ? Inputs from users of those devices will be appreciated. I have a bush hawk but do not find it practical and convenient.</p>

<p>Please advise.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>John,</p>

<p>I agree totally with everything you said.</p>

<p>However, here is the problem. I have recently lost my 1 Ds MK II. Originally, I planned to have this as the 2nd body when the IV comes but now I have none. Tried the 5D MK II- did not quite like the AF and the built- dust went under top LCD panel after a single trip in a dusty backcountry road in India ! Now, the plan is to have this MK III as the 2nd body when the next one comes- if ever !</p>

<p>Do you realize that the price of 1Ds MK III has gone up by $ 700 almost and all the lenses are up too! What is wrong woth Canon ?</p>

<p>Tudor,</p>

<p>The problem is, I dont know what to expect! I will try with the ruler- to see if they were sharp from corner to corner, right ? what about the back focus though ? I see a lot of people talk about micro adjustment with each and every lens. can anybody direct me to a user friendly page to read about it ?</p>

<p>thanks everybody.</p>

<p>Bueh - is it really necessary ? The nearest factory service center is 500 miles away in Virginia!<br>

Harry, that was my experience also. Never had any problems but I often see people complaining of bad copies of lenses, testing them to death and the declare the lens "bad"! I thought I must be an idiot not finding any fault with any of these"L" lenses I have bought. So, I just wanted to be more cautious this time- likely my last extravaganza with photography in my lifetime.</p>

<p>Thanks for your input.</p>

<p>friends,</p>

<p>I intend to buy a few L series lenses- alongwith an 1DsMK III in the next couple of days.<br>

How would I test my lenses after I receive them- for sharpness, back focusing problem etc? In the past, I have never tested a lens- bought and started using it but I want to be more cautious now.</p>

<p>Also, any suggestion to save money is welcome-it will be a bulk purchase-I guess in the $ 15000 range.</p>

<p>Thank you</p>

<p>Dholai</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks everybody for your valuable input. It is/was a very interesting discussion.<br>

Some have wondered, why would your input help me. Simple-that is how I learn. I always listen to others opinions so that I have some ideas of what I am buying. Most of the time i dont have the time or opportunity to test a lens prior to buying and so far i have not been disappointed.</p>

<p>BTW, I have used majority of what have been suggested here. I am a little surprised that not vey many people have recommended the 70-200 2.8L (I or II) - a stellar performer by any standard!</p>

<p>I am biased towards L lenses. Forget everything- the build quality and the weather, dust sand proof character is a life saver for me as I am not vey good at taking care of my gear.</p>

<p>Here is one example. In 2007, in India, I was carrying my 1 Ds MK II attached to the 70-200 on a Gitzo tripod on my shoulders. From about a height of 9 feet, the camera fell as the base plate of the Gitzo came out. It went dancing down a full 20 feet of concrete staircase. I closed my eyes. Someone on the ground floor caught the camera! Lo and behold- the filter got dented, the lens and camera had scratches but both were perfectly fine and functioning! I continued my photography.</p>

<p>Would a normal built regular lens could handle that?</p>

<p>This is wonderful.</p>

<p>Thanks a lot, friends.<br>

This will make my life so much easier to decide what I buy.<br>

What about the Zeiss lenses for Canon ? My Nikon friends swear they are the best!<br>

Thanks again</p>

<p>If you<br>

1) Use <strong>1Ds MK III </strong>and upcoming upgrades<br>

2) Use <strong>only L</strong> lenses<br>

3) Shoot <strong>Portrait/Landscape and Macro </strong>with some wildlife<br>

4) Image quality is all that matters ( in 35 mm format).</p>

<p>Your input will really matter. Please help.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Dholai</p>

<p>Guys,</p>

<p>This is strange.</p>

<p><strong>None</strong> of the stores that I buy from-B and H/ Amazon/Adorama/ Canon estore have the 1Ds MK III in stock. I wanted to order one and could not. Stores who have it price it $ 4K so you know these are scams!</p>

<p>Any speculation? MK IV in the horizon ?</p>

<p>Thanks everybody.<br /><strong>1DsMK III- it will be</strong>- elected by overwhelming majority</p>

<p>Recently, I had a chance to shoot with a brand new 5D MK II and honestly, I was disappointed with the AF(so used to 1Ds MK II), metering-especially the spot metering and had dust under the top LCD panel after a journey of few miles on a dusty road in India-I was shocked!</p>

<p>Bob, I agree with you. I have run out of wall space in my house with 40 X 60 prints from the MK II. So I know the III will not be worse. AFA MkIV goes, I dont care about the video at all- in fact I wish Canon keeps this without video or gives 2 models, one without and one with ! I cant think of doing HD video with my still camera- I abhorr the idea.<br>

<br />JDM, work like me, 28 days a month, 12 hrs shifts, 130 miles one way driving to work daily and you will know, whether you have the pocket or not, you need toys to survive, at least I do !</p>

<p>Thanks again, everybody.</p>

<p>Philip,<br>

Totally agree with everything you said. One question/concern - which one has a better image quality- the almost 4 yrs. old versus the 1 yr. old ?<br>

Quality is something for which I can compromise a lot ( not going to MF/LF though)</p>

<p>5D MK II or 1Ds MK III</p>

<p>If,</p>

<p>1) You are a serious ametuer<br>

2) Money is not an issue<br>

3) You shoot mainly Landscape/Portrait/Macro and some birds and wildlife<br>

4) Previous owner of a 1Ds MK II<br>

5) Use only L series primes and zooms ?</p>

<p>If you want to have a second body, then ?</p>

<p>Will you wait for the 1 Ds MK IV ? Will it ever come out ?</p>

<p>thanks</p>

<p>Guys,</p>

<p>I am sorry- I think I did not make it clear which LCD panel I was talking about.</p>

<p>It is the tiny one ON TOP of the camera where you have settings and info. NOT the LCD on the BACK of the camera.</p>

<p>Is it removable and replaceable also ?</p>

<p>thanks</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks Paul.</p>

<p>Are you telling me that the dust is under the plastic cover ON the surface of the LCD panel ? I dont even know what covers the panel. Is it a glass covering the panel and the plastic covering the glass or is it only a plastic that covers the LCD panel that I need to remove and replace ?</p>

<p>I had a brand new 5D MKII attached to a 70-200 2.8L MK II.<br>

I was traveling on a very dusty road in an open jeep in Rajasthan, India.<br>

I covered the camera with my wind breaker once I realized what the road situation was to protect it(camera).<br>

Back in the hotel, after cleaning the camera, I noticed that there was an accumulation of dust on the LCD screen under the glass, about 5 mm in diameter! Only at one spot. Did not see<br>

Why did this happen ?<br>

What do I do now ?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Dieter,<br>

Thanks for the link. It has actually happened to me -the head coming off with the base with the 400 mm DO attached to it- the whole thing straight up on my shoulder ! Luckily, I had the camera strap wrapped around my wrist and hence the lens did not hit the ground.</p>

<p>I have bought the 5541LS with the retainer plate from naturescape(insanely priced). What a beauty this tripod is!</p>

<p>Thanks everybody!</p>

<p>Dieter</p>

<p>Do you own Gitzo ? Just kidding<br>

Give me less choices please. I thought I was very specific to get only 2-3 model numbers!<br>

I don't need a removable center column- I don't need ANY center column!<br>

Well, flat on the ground is very close to the ground -you know what I mean.</p>

<p>BTW- I have a Gitzo 1548 MK II and love it. I left it in India permanently as traveling with photo gear is less and less enjoyable now a days- thanks to security. Hence I need a tripod for here.</p>