rs1

<p><a title="camp2013_pic46 by rsank, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2870/9513284927_4c117f8a9a.jpg" alt="camp2013_pic46" width="500" height="322" /></a><br>

Leica M2, Voigtlander APO Lanthar 90mm, Portra 160 (Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada)</p>

Thanks Nandakumar!

 

Hope you get the maximum enjoyment out of your new Kiev 4.

 

The Kiev 4 is quite a camera. I posted those photos over a year ago

and I am still using Kievs. Buying FSU cameras is really a crap

shoot. If you like tinkering with cameras, they are a lot of fun

(although I shudder to think of how I'll fix broken shutter

ribbons). I have three Kievs and they all had issues that needed to

be straightened out. Once fixed, they work very well.

I recently got a Bessa R2C and I have been using it a lot with my

Jupiter 8 but I still need the long rangefinder base of the Kiev for

my Jupiter 9 and 11 and I love the way the Kiev shutter sounds.

Alex,<br>

<p>The Yashica A is a nice camera. It usually comes with a 3 element Yashikor or Yashimar lens. Mine has a Yashimar. At apertures smaller than f8, you will get a sharp image. Wider apertures will yield a softer image. </p><br>

Here is a photo I took last year:<br>

<img src="http://members.shaw.ca/rajivsankranti/giannas.jpg">

<img

src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1358/2712/1600/08092006img030.jpg"><br>

Kiev 4A, Jupiter 12

<div></div>

<div></div>

<p>I went on a three week trip a few months back and took along 20 rolls. Mostly Superia 100, 400 and Tri X. The light there is intense and contrast is high during most of the day. Low ISO films will work better in those conditions. <br><br>Kodak Gold 100 is available locally (~$2 per roll), which I found to be quite good. If you are taking b&w, Tri X will work well. You can rate it at ISO 200, underdevelop and you'll get beautiful contrast even in those harsh lighting conditions.<br>

Be careful when processing locally. Only give to well reputed labs. The small guys change their chemicals once in three months. I learned it the hard way.</p>

Good luck and enjoy your trip!

I love my Autoreflex T4. I think you will like using a T4. It is compact and has a brighter focusing screen than its predecessors. The only slight drawback is the shutter is quite loud. Apart from that, it's a nice, reliable camera. You will like the 28mm Hexanon (if that's the one you have), it has excellent sharpness and contrast.

The lens says "165mm F/6.3 Ernemann Special.....Made in USA". That's it.

My apologies for saying 163 before. It's 165. <br>I think it is a tessar (it has two strong and one weak reflection when viewed from the back) and it also seems to be coated. So probably late forties early fifties?

Leonard,<br>

You are absolutely right! I don't know what I was smoking when I said 30ft. I need to revise my cheat sheet because the numbers on it are wrong. I checked the spreadsheet and it does say 49.3 ft for coc of 0.08. I think I mixed up the values for another focal length because I also have a 150mm Schneider Xenar. <br><br>

The spreadsheet is on this website:<br>

<a href="http://www.trenholm.org/hmmerk/HMbook18.html#anchor1110801">http://www.trenholm.org/hmmerk/HMbook18.html#anchor1110801</a>

Leonard,<br>

Thank you very much.<br>

<p>I am going to do what you suggested. I would hate for the film plane to be off because the camera will be pretty much a piece of junk (unless I can fix it). On my other photos where I didn't use any movements, I did get a uniformly sharp negative. So hopefully it's the curvature of field issue with this lens rather than the camera. <br><br>

I used the hyperfocal spreadsheet calculator from Harold Merklinger's website. I set a max coc of 0.08mm and generated that hyperfocal distance table. But it is very likely that I didn't actually focus at the hyperfocal. I think I most probably focused on the first building which was at least 100 ft away.<br>

Thanks again for your excellent suggestions and advice.

Thanks for the answers. I'll check the camera and holder and see if there is any reflective surface that is causing this.<br>

The camera was set at f22 and focused at a hyperfocal distance of 30ft.<br>

The image is a contact print and was scanned in with no additional sharpening. Examining the negative with a 8x loupe, shows that the far building is sharp (you can see inside the windows) but the close building is soft at the top but sharp at the bottom.

Hello,

<p>I recently acquired a Anniversary Speed Graphic with a 163mm f6.3 Ernemann

Special lens, plus a few film holders. I went out, exposed a few sheets ,and I

am consistently having the following problems.<br>

Apart from the obvious newbie errors of not leveling the camera, dust, etc., I

can't figure out what the band is on the left side of the image. It is a narrow

light coloured line running from top to bottom and it appears on all but one of

the negatives. Does this have something to do with the way the film is loaded?

Also the light leak on the top right is probably from the flap on the film

holder. I am guessing that some black tape will fix that one? But the band has

me stumped. <br><br>

 

Also, I did extensive web searches but couldn't find anything about this

Ernemann Special lens. In the image below, I used a fair amount of front rise

(no tilts possible with this camera) but it appears soft on top. Is the lens

reaching the limits of image quality already and without vignetting?<br><br>

 

Your help/advice/suggestions/reprimand is much appreciated.</p>

<br><img src="http://members.shaw.ca/rajivsankranti/lf.jpg">

Nice photos.

Thanks Rob.<br>

That shot was taken in the late evening just before the sun dipped behind some other buildings... :-)

Ben, Jack, thanks for the comments. <br>Jack, I really like the rangefinder style and I try, but I have found it takes more skill than I currently have.

I respect photographers such as yourself. You've got wonderful street shots in your portfolio. <br>

<img src="http://members.shaw.ca/rajivsankranti/06162006_008.jpg">

yikes! the first photo looked good on my laptop screen but looks like cr*p on the crt...oh well...

<p>Thank you Dan Flanders! In reponse to my previous request for a Kiev 4 part,

Mr.Flanders very graciously sent it to me. I am very grateful for the help. The

part is back on the camera and the camera is back in action.

I would like to share a few frames from a roll taken a days ago. Sorry these are

not in the rangefinder 'style' but I like to use my Kievs for everything... :-)

The first photo is a view of Vancouver from Stanley Park. The rest were taken in

the neighborhood.</p>

<img src="http://members.shaw.ca/rajivsankranti/08032006img002.jpg"><br><br><img

src="http://members.shaw.ca/rajivsankranti/03082006img039.jpg"><br><br><img

src="http://members.shaw.ca/rajivsankranti/03082006img038.jpg"><br>

<img

src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1358/2712/1600/01072006img004

.1.jpg">

Dan,<br>

<p>I got your email and I just sent you a reply. Let me know if by chance you haven't received it and I'll find another way of getting my address over to you.</p>

Thanks again and sorry for the trouble!

Thanks for the replies everyone! And special thanks to Dan! I am sending you an email right now.

Hello,

<p>I had a small disaster with my Kiev 4. A small piece of the wind knob has

broken off. The small pin that protrudes and engages with the slotted wheel in

the shutter mechanism has broken off (see photo). I doubt if there is a way to

mend this. Would it be best would be to get a new part? Is there anybody who

has this part lying around or maybe an unwanted junk camera, I will be happy

to buy it from you. I would like to avoid ordering a whole new one from

*bay.<br> Sorry if this sounds like a WTB post. If it's inappropriate, please

delete it.</p><div></div>

Yup! Taking the batteries out is what I'll do.<br>

Thanks very much for your replies and all the detailed information you provided. It's great to meet someone who knows the ins and outs of this camera.

constant drain of 5mA when at rest, regardless of the setting

11mA when metering, peaks at 13mA when shutter is fired

J,<br>

Thanks very much for that detailed reply. I could never have imagined that little unit 0553 hides such complexity. I guess removing the batteries is the only way to use this. <br>

As an experiment, I am going to connect my ammeter and see just how much current is being drained when the XD is at rest.