Jump to content

rs1

Members
  • Posts

    241
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by rs1

  1. <p>My other Kiev 4a (1979 vintage) I haven't yet opened up. The

    Kiev 4AM does have a metal washer at the top of the sprocket shaft but it's small and doesn't do the job too well so I put in a seal just above it and also taped that body seam from the top as well as the bottom. Anyway, let's hope my Fuji Superia 400 roll also turns out good, then I'll be singing...</p>

  2. Rick,<br>

    <p>I dabbed a little paint on that seam as you had suggested in my earliest post regarding the light leak. It did help somewhat but it was still appearing seemingly at random. It was definitely less but not gone completely. Then as I started digging deeper, I noticed that it all depends on how the light is incident on that rangefinder window. Sometimes when I was taking a side lit picture and sunlight was falling at oblique angles, it would cause the leak to appear in the <i>previous</i> frame (the sprocket being under the previous and not the current frame). Sometimes it will appear faintly in an indoor shot because maybe the camera was held in such a way that the light from a bulb got through. It was crazy but there was a pattern.</p>

    <p>Anyway, I got in and 'baffled' the crap out of it. Good thing is Kiev 4s are easy to open even for a idiot like me. Ran a roll of Tri X yesterday, developed it in the evening and it seems good. No leaks! Now I've put a roll of C41 400 ASA film, if this is also clear, I will call it good.</p>

  3. <p>Makes sense Vivek. I guess it's up to us to take that 'diamond in the rough' and turn it into a gem. I spent a few hours disassembling the camera, putting in all the light sealing and 'baffling'. We'll see how the photos turn out now. In this case, apart from the intermittent light leaks, both Kievs work fine.</p>

    <p>Rangefinder adjustment is fairly easy if it's out of horizontal but adjusting vertical is harder. Kiev Survival Site rocks!</p>

  4. Hello all,

    <p>This is a question for Kiev 4 users. I have been using this camera

    for only a few months and have had a nagging problem with light leaks

    (more visible with 200 ASA film and above). I finally got the time to

    open the camera up to fix the damn leaks once and for all. To my shock

    and horror, I found that there was no baffle behind the rangefinder

    window. This is likely to be the exact reason for my light leak

    because on the negatives it shows up as radiating from the sprocket

    and without the baffle, the rangefinder window will illuminate the

    entire area quite nicely. </p><p>My question, is there usually no

    factory installed baffle behind the rangefinder window? Or is this

    just my luck at "Russian Roulette"? I have another Kiev and it has the

    same pattern of light leak.</p>

    <p>ps I also have to salute the Kiev Survival Site and its owner.

    Without using the information on that website, I wouldn't have

    "survived". :-)

    </p>

  5. <p>Just sharing a few recent photos with my '61 Jupiter 12. This

    particular lens was bought for $4 at a flea market. It was infested

    with fungus. Luckily the lens is easy to take apart and clean. Fungus

    has not returned and the lens performs well as long as there is no

    major backlighting.</p>

    <img src="http://members.shaw.ca/rajivsankranti/img881.jpg"><br><br>

    <b>----- Squirrel spots Jupiter 12 -----</b><br><br><img

    src="http://members.shaw.ca/rajivsankranti/img882.jpg"><br><br>

     

    <img src="http://members.shaw.ca/rajivsankranti/img888.jpg"><br><br>

  6. Thanks H.P. <br>Yes, it is very true that they didn't mess up the original German design. I am lucky to have six soviet era lenses for the kiev mount and two for M42 thread and they all perform very well. None of those quality control problems that we hear so much about. I got them at fabulous prices too!
  7. Hello everyone,<br>

    The "B" I refer to is the word "Bokeh". I am familiar with the word as

    it's what my wife calls me when I am being absent minded but I have

    only recently become acquainted with the term in photography. I am

    posting this question because after half an hour of searching and

    reading through lots of posts, I am still as confused as ever. Need a

    "Bokeh for Idiots" book or something. <br>I realize that what is

    considered good/bad bokeh is subjective thing but having noticed

    smoother looking OOF backgrounds with the Jupiter 12 has got me asking

    this question. I have read that the way OOF is rendered depends on the

    shape of the diaphragm and the degree of lens corrections. My Jupiter

    12 lens diaphragm has only five blades (compared to the 9 of the

    Helios and Jupiter 8) and the shape is definitely a pentagon, yet I

    think I get good bokeh from it. I am posting an example of what I

    consider good rendering of the bokeh. So, does the shape of the

    diaphragm not matter much then?<div>00G7pA-29538684.jpg.fac481186825c7a412ccf4c5b30d96cb.jpg</div>

  8. <p>My first camera was a Smena 8m. It was given to me when I was 10 years old. My father, at that time, was sent to Moscow for four years as the station manager of an airline and the family went along. Russia had excellent subsidized resources for photography and I used them to the fullest. After returning home it was a different story. Photography was a very expensive hobby and my parents put the kybosh on my photographic "career". </p><p>

    A few years ago, my interest in photography was rekindled. I bought a Minolta Maxxum 4 with a couple of zoom lenses. Photos were ok but not that great and I started investigating why. I started learning about photography. Learned about metering, the advantages of a prime lens over a zoom etc.<br>

    I then looked on evilbay and bought a Konica AutoReflex T4 with the 50mm hexanon lens. I was totally amazed with how my photos improved in quality and composition. I got myself a Konica T2, T3 and a few more lenses. I was starting to like it. I bought lots more after that but that's an answer to a different question</p>

    <p>

    Sorry to add one more thing but I started using classic gear because they give me better results than the modern gear I own. I am cheap and I can't think of spending a thousand dollars or more just on camera equipment (a new Nikon FM3A with 45mm lens is close to $900 in the B&H catalog). I care mostly about the end result i.e., the print and my classic cameras give me excellent prints.</p>

  9. I just checked my lens and acually it is not a super takumar but an "55mm f1.8 auto takumar" and it looks more brown now. I think I gave it sun treatment. I could have sworn it was dark yellow because on colour prints, there was a noticeable dark yellow cast in the shadow areas.
×
×
  • Create New...