codyj1286

Thank you all very much, especially the link to the other post demonstrating specific examples of photographs of the nature I was questioning. It makes more sense to me now, especially at how daunting a task it is, and a special situation when the colors combine in such a way to capture a picture like in Rafael's. I have dabbled with my Rebel XT, not nearly as much as I should now considering how much inspiration I've recieved from this one post. Just as in B&W Film photo's, its not about the camera or the film used, its about the composition and technique.

 

Thank you all for you input, if anyone has any other ideas on the situation, please keep adding to this, as it may help other lost digital newcommers as myself. My new task is to make some B&W Digital prints to fool my old photo professor at the college's next photo show. (He's not well versed in Digital, so maybe I'll be able to slip one by him). On to making better pictures and not worrying about what gear I have.....

 

 

Thanks Again!

Hello Everyone!

 

This is quite possibly a very beginner question, but I needed to throw

it out there to see if there were any responses. I normally shoot

most all of my pictures in traditional film black and white, and some

color. I have a Digital Rebel XT that I absolutely adore, and take

wonderful pictures with, so I do have both, and know both.

 

My question is in regards to some of the wonderful new digital

photographs I see booming out all over the place. In example I was

extensively perusing the portfolio of the photorapher who was chosen

for her single photo of the week on the main photo.net page (forget

her name). She creates stunning photographs with her digital

equipemnt, which when looking at the cameras she uses, I would

consider to be very amature, but she is getting professional results

(bravo!).

 

For those of you that are extremely versed in digital equipment, and

the post processing required to get these images, what is the main

focus? When I look at that photographers portfolio I just love the

pictures, and yes, they might not enlarge so well, but to do it on

film would cost 10X the amount it costs to produce that one picture.

I am not asking which medium is better, simply what combination of

digital do you use to achieve such brilliant digital photo's. Is it

mostly camera or mainly digital after effects done in photoshop?

 

I would love to start shooting more digital for the decreased cost,

and the Rebel XT is by no means a total amature camera (wonderful

pictures have been made with less digital technology), but I wonder if

99.99% of digital images get their "bang" because of after effects in

a comptuer editing program, not the real light hitting the sensor.

 

Thanks All!

I look forward to the comments.

Very interesting, I will definately check out that special processing as said above. The square negatives are not 120 size, they are like a 35mm frame, just cropped down to a square. I don't think they are an "instamatic" (maybe just my ignorance) the quality to me seems much better than something "instant". I'm not seeing much fading at all, these negatives were probably lightly displayed in a projector over the years, and most likely for the last 30 years have sad around in my Grandma's shoebox in a closet (wonderful hiding spot for achival). I did find one roll that is "Ektachrome", and there is a severe pink glaze over all of the pictures.

 

Thanks Again!

I've recenlty come into the care of a large amount of slides from the

early 60's ranging into the mid 70's. Old family photo's that are

scanning wonderfully into the computer. I would love to start

shooting more slide films these days, and was just wondering what

types of films are in sale today that will compare with these older films.

 

I already know that many of them are Kodachrome slides, about 1/2 of

all of them are, and they still look gorgeous. While I know there are

still Kodachrome mailers out there, are there normal E6 Films that

compare? The mid-70's pictures are taken on a square format camera,

and are not 35mm format. Combined with those square slides are

numerous other types of slides that are unlabeled. It shocks me to

see what these slides still look like today, as many prints from those

days look horrible today.

 

If anyone could advise me to a slide film that captures some of these

wonderful qualities of slide film, when slide films were THE film, it

would be wonderful. Do "consumer" slide films match up to this

quality? or do only Professional films?

 

Thanks for the replies!

Hello Everyone and Merry Christmas!

 

I very much so apologize if I just didn't research this topic out well

enough and find an educated answer for myself. So I recently came

upon a Scan Dual IV and was wondering if I might recieve some help. I

have a Digital Rebel XT, and am computer savvy so this isn't just a

tech question about how to plug a cable in ;)

 

My first "job" (for family) that I am tasked with for this scanner is

to scan in hundreds of Kodachrome, Ektachrome, and other Kodak Slide

films from the early 60's. I see no problem at the moment with the

scanning software, and have practiced scanning some slides, WOW are

they stunning for being so old, really, really beautiful colors

unedited!

 

So, my computer is very well capable, and I have tons of space,

obviously using my dSLR I can get RAW shots that are around 8mb per

shot. So, could anyone recomment particular settings on the scanner

that would yield similar 8mb files of these scans, in resolution etc

etc. I couldn't see these being ever any larger than a 4X6, but I

want a good photo record and turn it digital so it will last "forever".

 

Thank you guys very much for the input and I would love any adive you

could give me.

 

Merry Christmas!

Cody Jorgensen<div></div>

I bought it used from keh, can't remember exactly what condition it was labled as, but it was definately worth the purchase price. I love the lens, and it is very much a "classic" focal range. I haven't experienced anything negative with the lens that is noteworthy, great purchase, go for it!

 

PS: Who can't resist the cool Canon petal lens hood?

Thanks a bunch everyone for the feedback, quite a bit of advice from some good

perspectives. As to the I have the XT, and the 7NE, I want another because I use my film

body for my "main" body, and while I love the XT for some applications, I would rather

shoot in film, its just what I use it for.

 

I'm truly thinking more now about getting a great deal on a EOS 3, just for the fact that I

will never need another body in my arsenal for a very long time, as long as nothing breaks.

I don't have the capital to invest in a more robust digital to do the things my film body can

do, and while I do like the digital for its simplicity and less cost for my portrait work, I'd

rather focus on film becausee I do a large amount of tradititional B&W work (I don't care

for Digital B&W).

 

Thanks Again Everyone, great input!

-Cody

Hello everyone,

 

I recently have had the dilemna where I would like to have another body to hold a lens,

and or color film while my main body does something else, I find it quite handy for

shooting portraits, weddings etc (I do it with my Rebel XT minimally). I'm finding the urge

to get another film body as a backup, or just to have another one :)

 

Now, here's the question. I've looked at quite a different many cameras in the Canon

lineups, and haven't thus far been able to decide on one camera. I've been looking at

either an EOS 1, EOS 1n, Elan 7, or spending more money and getting a used EOS 3 on KEH

(not something I'm really keen on). I'm shooting with an Elan 7NE and am finding it all the

camera I need, and I absolutely love it. The EOS 1, 1n, and a 7 are all very similar in price

ranges, and having a more rugged "professional" body might be more advantageous in

certain situations.

 

Thanks a bunch for the help and direction once again, greatly apreciated

 

-Cody Jorgensen

It seems that I struggle sometimes between the two. I absolutely love to shoot Film B&W, dev and print it myself in the darkroom. I sometimes wonder though how my pictures would look if I trusted my dSLR to desaturate images to B&W. Sometimes the time involved in the darkroom makes me wonder, but I do like the think that I am learning the important nitty gritty to making wonderful photographs by doing it the old fashioned way and not just sitting at my computer.

I know many people that rate their tried and true films differently to suit their own

personal variations with developer/film combos, and the differences in people's agitation

styles...There is a TechPub on Kodak's website that gives a guide as to how one can

detemine the "correct" ISO rating for a film tailored to the individual darkroom, and the

corresponding techniques used therein.

 

The method states to take a meter reading of a non-changing scene, when the meter is

set to four stops lower than the labeled ISO rating. Then, it says you either stop down the

apeture by one stop for each frame, or increase the shutter speed to get correspondingly

higher ISO ratings exp, ISO 25 next apeture up would be ISO 50 etc....

 

Now, My question is, can you set the ISO speed to four stops lower, take the apeture and

shutter speed readings from that meter, and then for each subsequent full stop increase in

exposure all you do is increase the cameras built in ISO speed and enter in the metered

apeture and shutter speed numbers from the original four stop lower than normal setting?

My Canon SLR reads that when I do this the exposure compensation is increased by one

stop. Now, for lack of sounding extremely stupid, are these two methods the means to the

same end?

 

The endgame of doing this is to develop you film regularly, and determine and print the

negative that looks the most "correct", and that ISO speed will get you great "correct"

negatives. Then your supposed to increase and decrease develop times by two minutes

and compare to see if different dev times (using recommended as starting) will create

better negs. Wow, what a long and drawn out question, but the idea just seemed so

intriguing, to set your ISO's to perfectly match all of our own different processing styles.

 

Thanks

Cody

Thanks everyone, I didn't consider the fact that only one dirty canister could have disloged

some dirt or dust into the camera body, and that could be causing the scratches. I'm

going to clean it out real well! I'm going to get a better body soon...but I still need to be

able to shoot between now and then. I'll post again when I run the test roll, and I think I'm

buying new bulk canisters...

 

Cody

I don't think many people these days even try to make film a possibility, or maybe it just

worked out better that way for me. Photography is such an interesting field, an impressive

art form, what you want all depends on how your going to make photographs. I find

nothing more satisfying than "making photographs" with my film camera, developing and

selectively printing the good ones. It is one of the most rewarding things in my life, and

its just so darn fun. Watching an image appear in a tray of developer is so more

mesmerizing than watching the bar on your computer render your file...Lame

 

Well, I'm just rambling, but i think you get the idea, if your going to go B&W do it the old

way, not just "converting" your colors to grayscale, where's the Ansel Adams, picturesque

beauty in that? All of these people have told you why digital's great, but I like film more,

and it suits me better. But hey, in the end its whatever suits YOU.

My Rebel GII I think, has been scratching the holy hell out of my negatives (and positives).

I do my own black and white, they get scratched 90% of the time. I've had color prints that

the lab made get scratched, and also positives that have noticeable scratches through

them. Yes, I have read lots about the types of scratches, they aren't just random, usually

an extremely prominent continuous line about 1/3 of the way down from the top of a

horizontal positive, or on some there are a couple of prominent lines. On my B&W work

there are around four in that top region of the print that are very noticeable in normal

8x10 prints.

 

Now, yes, i do bulk load, the cassettes are not dirty, thus disproving that due to the fact

that this has consistently happened in manufactured rolls. I believe it to be my pressure

plate on the back of the film advance, not necessarily dings in it causing scratches, but it

might be holding the film too tightly and causing it to scratch. I am in desperate need of

help because lines through my negs are completely unacceptable.

 

Thanks

Cody

I bulk roll FP4+ and I love the prints that I've gotten from it. I use stock D-76 for the

developer and it also works great. Everyone, EVERYONE has their own "special"

combination. There are other great films out there, and bulk rolling saves money (if you

do it right, no scratches). Find something that is highly rated and stick with it, you will get

good results.

I was more asking what are the limitations that are placed on my photography because I

use an entry model, and what I would be gaining if I switched to a prosumer body. I

constantly am frustrated by the akward manual metering by using the little dial for time,

and pressing the button and then moving the dial for apeture. I like to be able to bracket

my shots, but the auto-bracket is not as helpful for the way I bracket.

 

I want to have equipment that is up to par with my photography, not equipment that limits

my ability to take great photos. Hope that clears anything up. Sorry for the confusion.

I've been making photographs for around two years on an artistic level, not just a point

and shooter. I currently use the Rebel GII with the 50mm/1.8 as my workhorse lens. As I

progress through photography I would like to eventually purchase the Elan 7NE as my

prosumer model to satisfy all of my artistic needs.

 

After using the camera for around two years I have come to understand some of its quirks

and irritations that make it truly an entry model camera. By the way, I shoot mostly

landscape and architecture, if that helps any. Anyway, excluding the professional EOS

cameras is the Elan 7NE a good choice to bring my equipment up to the level of my

photography?