will_legge
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Posts posted by will_legge
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"A basic premise is that photography is essentially non-neutral, no
matter the photographer's intent; it is always a part of the cultural
context of the individual who creates the image."
As well as the cultural, social, and pychological context of each
viewer. The social position and psychology of the artist would need
to be included too. But this idea has been around for a long time and
fairly well proven.
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Sam, where did I say that the images must be "eye poppers"? Why are
you bringing up nature photography? It seems you are implying what my
personal views are in your response, but I have not made any comments
about "eye-popping" photos nor nature photography. If you would like
to discuss my comments, confine your remarks to them.
The word I used was "uninteresting." It creates no interest in me to
take notice of it. I also do not like uniteresting writing, music,
dance, theater, or movies. I find them boring. A work that bores its
audience does not have much to recommend itself.
In response to your last post, I do expect images to be significant
in a photographic work. What point does an image have if it is
insignificant? If it cannot stand up on its own merit, it does not
need to be shown - after all, it has no merit.
We will have to disagree about how interesting her ideas are.
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I like to shoot full frame. I find it far more satisfying to involve
myself at the location and get the photograph there than trying to
finding it in the darkroom. Of course darkroom work is very important
for me as well. But at that time it is simply making the best print
possible.
I'm drawn to the implicit reality of photography. Full-frame film
photography I believe is the highest expresion of that. Digital
imaging is at the opposite extreme. I find the flexiblity in digital
imaging destroys this implicit sense of reality. I find I don't
"believe" the digital image. I just dismiss it as clever processing.
Whether photography can actually show any objective reality is
another question. Probably not. But I enjoy the limits of straight
photography.
BTW, about "Gare St. Lazarre" being cropped. I read it somewhere and
if I find the source, I will post it. Also, there is a recent
collection of Cartier-Bressons work printed and distributed to
institutions around the world. This was a very limited edition of
around four hundred of his most significant work. That image was
included of course. That one and three others did not have a
trademark black frame of full-frame printing. Why those out of 411
prints? Curious to print 407 showing the black frame, but not those
four. But that is not proof. I will look for the source.
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I have used a Mamiya 6 with this kind of attachment. This is not the
best way to do the work you want. The magnification is limited and
framing is awkward.
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Great math, but in case you are lossed by it. 0.1 in desity is an
approximation. This changes with the contrast of the film. It would
be different for lith, slide, and negative film. Since it is easy to
control the contrast of black and white film, the change in density
would also be dependant on the developer and development time.
On a density vs log exposure (DlogH) graph, contast is measured by
how steep the curve is. The steeper the curve, the greater the
contrast. As the contrast increases, the change in density becomes
greater with the change in exposure.
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I think Henri Carties-Bresson had no patience with people toward the
end of his life because people were trying to deify him rather than
let him be a man. He was a great photographer, but it would be an
injustice to make him into a god. Not all his pictures are uncropped
-"Behind the Gare St. Lazare" is an example. Nor did he confine
himself to a normal lens. I think highjacking him to be a poster boy
for "Street Photography" also does him a disservice - he was much
more than that.
I am grateful for his life and the work he produced. Placing him on a
pedestal turns him from a human being to a mere icon.
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It will be released leter this year. I think it will be available in
the fall.
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There is no good way to do use graduated filters. There is only one
trick that I can think of that may work. Look at the relection of the
image on the front element and adjust the position of the filter
using that.
But rangefinders really are not for use with these kind of filters.
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Calle seems to believe her presence is enough to make an interesting
work.
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Does she? Then why did she go through all of the trouble of setting
up this complex situation? It's a fascinating idea and experiment. I
expect it's probably also unique, although I'm not familiar enough
with the art world to say for sure. Do you also need eye-popping
visuals to go along with it?
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And a complex work all about her.
I assume because the forum is titled 'Philosophy of Photography" that
the work we are discussing is primarily photographic.
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You can print any size with this film. If you are printing the whole image area or almost the whole image area, there is no limit to the print size with any format film.
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There is a BIG difference between a 20mm and 28mm lens. It may be a
difference in 8mm, but that is nearly 30% shorter. You may find that
it is too wide. What do you want it for?
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As someone stated, it is not an either or situation. I've done both.
Some professionals never went to school. Ansel Adams studied the
piano, Eugene Smith was history major that dropped out, Imogen
Cunningham was a "housewife."
What do you what to do. It is after all your life. There is no
correct way to get through it. If you want more on this I suggest you
refer to "The road less traveled" by Robert Frost.
I went to RIT. I would not trade that experience for anything. I have
also worked as an assistant. I learnt more at RIT. But then I took a
BS in Imaging and Photographic Technology rather than a BA in Applied
Photography. I did my electives in Applied Photography courses. But
it was expensive and getting more expensive every year.
But not all schools are created equal. Go and visit them. Talk to
professors. See the kind of work students are doing. Check the
facilities and equipment available. I was spoiled at RIT. How many
places have individual studios with Sinar P2 4x5 view cameras and
Broncolor A4 lighting systems - probably better gear now as I
graduated a long time ago. None of the darkrooms have enlargers
smaller than 4x5. Chemistry on tap all day. 40" color paper
processors. The a bunch of teachers who actually understood the
processes of photography. (I understand they have all the latest in
digital imaging now.)
I have no idea if it is right for you. But a good school can teach
you many things in four short expensive years. But RIT is a tough
place. OF the 60 people in my program in the freshman year, I
graduated with about 12 of them. And not just because of the
miserable Rochester winters. Having a four year degree as also given
me opportunities outside my field.
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Mr. Smith, it is possible to make a 6x17 back for a 4x5 camera. Art
Panorama made one and the Chinese have made a similar (if not an
exact copy) of it. It come with a separtate ground glass back.
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I love my Manfrotto carbon fiber tripod. I use a magnesium alloy
Velbon PH-253 ball head (160g) and I replaced the standard center
column with the short center column. It is perfect for both my 6x6
and 6x12 cameras. The longest focal length I use is 150mm on the 6x6
and 135mm on the 6x12.
I perfer the Manfrotto flip locks over the Gitzo collar locks. The
tripod is very flexible and the being able to use the center colunm
vertically or horizontally is great.
I went with the tree section leg for more stability and less weight
as well as more height. I'm 6 foot and it is a good size. When
collapsed, it is just 10cm longer.
I think these are great tripods and they will give you years of
service. I also have two Gitzo tripods, the reporter and a series 3,
and I have a very large Manfrotto tripod. The Carbone is by far my
favorite. The other are just gathering dust.
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Jonathan, first Calle is not a photographer in this work. She is
simply editing work made by others. But I'm not sure your point. It
seems you are fascinated by the idea only.
I think an idea in and of itself is not much. It is the excecution
that is important. But I see nothing but a concept. The picture in
the link you provided is uninteresting. Certainly without your
description I would not take any notice of it.
I am trying to think of something positive to say, but I cannot.
Calle seems to believe her presence is enough to make an interesting
work. She is happy that someone is following her, but why shouldn't
she. She planned it. Except for insights into Calle's ego, there is
nothing here.
I have seen work she actually did. She posed as a room maid to
photography the belonging of the guests at a hotel. Not very
developed work, Not particularly original. It reminded me of second-
year photo students who photograph peoples wallets to somehow show
who they are. Calle just likes to sneak around.
People say aesthetics is about art. But what do they mean. Because
aesthetics was concidered a lower form of philosophy it was left to
people who could not think clearly and so it has been link to so many
different fields that it is become synonymous with existance.
Aesthetics properly deals with the senses, not the intellect (that is
the meaning of aesthetics). Calle's work is not aesthetic. It creates
no aesthetic response.
What her work is founded on is a concept. Unfortunately, I find this
the most barren type of work. Concepts are abstract in that they do
not need to be based on reality. And I don't mean materialism.
Mythologies are based on reality and that is why they are so
powerful. They affect us on an unconscious level. Calle is all in the
head and not in the heart. Her work is dead. It is an expression of
her ego only.
The clearest example I can give of the difference between a work
created by intellect and inspiration is a film by Wim Wenders.
Compare the movie "Wings of Desire" with its remake "City of Angles."
It is the difference between poetry and prose. Poetry expresses what
can't be expressed with the head, prose just states ideas.
Calle likes prose, but it is only about her and cannot get beyond her
"clever" idea.
Sorry to make you another "downer." I panned "On Photography" in
another post. At one time in my life I might have enjoyed the
itellectual games of postmodernism, but not now. Who was it who won
the Turner prize for an "installation" called "Lights Going On and
Off"? What do you think of that work?
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I would say it would not need a center filter. However, you may get
mechanical vignetting under f/11.
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I would go to the International Association of Panoramic
Photographers web site for information and links to their member's
site (www.panoramicassociation.org).
6x12 would be the largest film that can be printed on a 4x5 enlarger.
6x17 requires a 5x7 enlarger. You will then need to decide if you
what a fixed lens or swing lens camera. Fixed lens cameras are like
what you are used to and have a flat film plane. swing lens cameras
scan an image on a curved film plane. They both have their strength
and weakness both technically and aesthetically.
Fixed lens cameras are very simple. Uneven illumination across the
film plane (natural vignetting) is the biggest problem with short
focal length lenses. This is usually solved with an expensive center
filter (panoramic equipment is always expensive). The other problem
is mechanical vignetting which means most lenses need to be stopped
down to f/11. Most cameras have mechanical shutters which have no
limit to exposure time or double exposures. The Fuji/Hasselblad 35mm
panoramic camera is limited to 30 second or five minute exposures
depending on the model - and maybe shorter in cold conditions. Fixed
lens cameras max out to about a 100 degree angle of view. But
straight lines remain straight. The wide-angle affect is strong on
round objects near the edge of the field - they become elongated.
Swing lens cameras have angles of view up to 140 degrees. They have
limit shutter speeds because they need to scan the film - 1/2 second
is about the longest. They can also have a limited number of speeds.
The Widelux has 1/15, 1/125, and 1/250. Some can make multiple
exposures. Although the prespective is actually correct, it does not
look correct - lots of curved straight lines. No interchangeable
lenses. Not all lenses can be focused. But they can work at large
apertures and do not suffer from natural or mechanical vignetting. No
wide-angle effect at the edge of the field.
I use both types. I have a Widelux f8 35mm swing lens camera and a
Horseman SW612 fixed lens medium format camera. I prefer the fixed
lens camera. I find the affect of the swing lens very limited. Neat
at first, but it is much harder to get images that are good beyond
the unusual lines. The Horseman gives me far more control over the
image. I produce more good work with it. (It has become my work
horse, man (sorry).) It is not that swing lens cameras are bad, some
photographers have done some excellent work with them, but personally
I find them limited. I prefer the more classical images that can be
taken with fixed lens cameras.
Here is a list of some manufactures who produce cameras for film
sizes up to 6x12: Horseman, Linhof, Fuji/Hasselblad, Silvestri,
Cambo, Widelux, Noblux, Fotoman. The Cambo Wide is a hand-held wide-
angle 4x5 camera that can be used with a 6x12 roll-film back. Fotoman
is a new Chinese manufacturer (www.fotomancamera.com), unknown
quality, but tempting prices.
Each camera can have its querks. The Linhof has a permanant 8mm rise
- turn it over for an 8mm fall and vertical pictures are always going
to have a 8mm shift. Horseman has two models, the SW612 which is very
small and can be used hand held like the Linhof (but without the 8mm
shift), and the SW612 Pro which has rise/fall/shift movements, but it
needs to be used on a tripod. The Horseman 135mm Lens Unit will not
cover the 6x12 image - the lens cone vignettes the film. A very
stupid mistake on Horseman's part. Swing lens cameras under
fluorescent light can show uneven illumination due to the electrical
frequency of the light. If a flash goes off during a swing exposure,
you get a vertical light bar in you picture.
To print panoramic images you may need to cut out a negative carrier
- I did. I made full-frame 6x12 and Widelux (56x26mm) carriers for my
enlargers from 6x9 and 35mm carriers.
Try renting a few cameras before buying. Some people have made their
own cameras from aerial or vintage cameras.
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You only have two thirds of the problem. You forgot object distance:
Depth of field increases as focal length decreases.
Depth of field increases as the aperture decreases.
Depth of field increases as the object distance increases.
But the affects of these parameters are not linear. Depth of field
will vary inversely with the square of the focal length. However,
depth of field increases proportionally with the f-number. So at the
same object distance, the depth of field will be far narrower at
400mm compared to 200mm even with the difference in aperture.
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There is no limit to the size you can enlarge a TMax 400 35mm neg or
any neg for that matter. I've made a 16x20 print from one. I have
seen plenty of 20x24 prints from Tri-X which is grainier than TMax.
The skill of the printer is more of an issue.
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I agree with DI. It is less about the equipment and more about being
there. You may have to work a little harder, but in the end you
should have many great images. You really don't need a lot of gear.
Actually, I find having less more liberating. You just need to think
about what is in front of you rather than fiddling with lenses and
filters. When I'm in the montains I carry three single focal length
lenses - wide-angle, normal, and medium telephoto. I find that is
enough.
BTW, thank you DI for the nice compliment.
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If you are looking for a fill light, there are many options. I use a
$20 Sunpack with a 6x12 medium format camera - actually, the format
is not the issue. Mostly I use this with portraits in harsh sunlight
within a couple of meters. There are many flash units better than
mine as well as being more flexible.
The aperture is set at the aperture required for the flash exposure,
and then set the shutter speed for the ambient exposure at that
aperture. Of course you can also change the ratio of the flash to
ambient exposures by changing the aperture or shutter speed.
How far a flash is effective is based on the guide number. The f-
number required for an exposure is equal to the guide number divided
by the flash to subject distance - make sure the guide number and
distance are in the same unit. Guide numbers can be given in feet or
meters. And notice, this is the flash to subject distance. The flash
does not need to be on the camera but can be placed near the subject
out of the field of view.
The angle of illumination can be important. If it is variable, it
gives some control over lighting effects and well as efficiency. My
flash does not cover the angle of view of the 6x12 camera but it does
not matter since it is illuminating the subject and not the scene.
This makes it more efficient (powerful) because to diffuse the flash
to cover a larger area would lower the output.
It would be worth picking up an inexpensive flash and trying some
experiments. It would give you an idea without a huge investment.
Henri Cartier-Besson death
in Street & Documentary
Posted
"With respect to your sought-after implicit sense of reality that
digital imaging doesn't seem to provide, I trust that also means you
only shoot color, right? Unless of course you have a medical
condition where you are 100% color-blind."
Brad, I don't quite understand your comment. It seems a little
aggressive. Have I given you personal offence?
I was only explaining what I like about photography. I also explained
that the "reality" in photography was implied but probably not
actual.
My preference for straight photography does not condem any other way
of taking pictures. a pervious post asked why someone would wan't to
photograph that way. This was a response to that. I'm glad you do not
like placing limits on your photography. My limts allows me to enjoy
photography equally.